U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing
#6481
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Anyone got links and part numbers for where to order the driver figure?
Not sure if this applies to 1/10, but is there any issue with revving a motor with no load like that to see if boost is on? I know that it was stated at least for 1/8 brushless that this was a no-no, but dont' recall why.
Not sure if this applies to 1/10, but is there any issue with revving a motor with no load like that to see if boost is on? I know that it was stated at least for 1/8 brushless that this was a no-no, but dont' recall why.
#6485
Tech Elite
iTrader: (73)
I just noticed on the website (VTA) it says u must use a driver figures head. I thought this was going to be an option. Also about the esc's with timing advance. How would we know if the boost is turned off on the tekin and plus what about the lrp and speed passion. What happens if tech shorts your speedo out or messes it up?
I don't want to see it kill the class. At our track it is bigger than touring foam and rubber. About 10 entries or more a week. You can check us out on www.OVRCCC.com
I don't want to see it kill the class. At our track it is bigger than touring foam and rubber. About 10 entries or more a week. You can check us out on www.OVRCCC.com
and yes Seaball "IRONY"
I have read the 'fights' discussions ect, I am not nor is Mark complaining about the rules He was asking for much needed 'clarification', if you 'experts' feel I am complaining about the rules you are far off in left field, I am concerned over Robs response to a fellow racer, responses such as those cannot be be determined if it was 'irony' or a serious response.
PROMOTE VTA by being civil, not ironic replies,
Speedy
#6486
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
A few pages back there are sugestions on where to get driver figures. The problem is that they are very modern NASCAR molds. The only figure I've seen that comes close to vintage might be the Tamiya stuff from the 80's. Not easy to find if you don't know what to look for. Plus all the drivers look the same.
Until real vintage stuff is made like the following, I'm not going to pollute my 1969 Cuda with a 2006 driver. Anyone know where I can find this driver helmet?
Until real vintage stuff is made like the following, I'm not going to pollute my 1969 Cuda with a 2006 driver. Anyone know where I can find this driver helmet?
#6487
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
I can see the idea behind requiring the tekin users to turn the turbo off (I don't agree with it, but I can see where it's coming from) but don't you think it's going a little too far REQUIRING a driver's figure and interior stuff? If it's an attempt at strengthening the scale realism of the class, why not enforce, say, period appropriate paint schemes instead of making a damage prone add-on - that spectators can barely notice and only adds complexity - a requirement?
#6488
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
i personally would just like to have an official part number to an online hobby shop for the driver figure like they do with the bodies, tires, and wheels allowed . There is race I am thinking of maybe going to which uses strict USVTA rules for one of there classes, so to be legal, I need that info.
#6489
It's also ironic that although the rules state that a driver figure is required, all of the pictures in the USVTA gallery don't have any drivers.
Extra points to robk for adding sound to his VTA car (even if it was a diesel sound). That's supposed to happen *after* you turn the engine off.
Extra points to robk for adding sound to his VTA car (even if it was a diesel sound). That's supposed to happen *after* you turn the engine off.
#6490
here's one I had in my car briefly: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLDW5
I took it out though and probably won't replace it unless I have to. Where I race many of the VTA cars don't even have the 4 numbers on them as per USVTA rules, so I can't really see anyone enforcing the driver one there.
On a side note, I got into VTA because I thought it was a cool class and fairly mellow compared to some of the other classes out there. However, all the bickering about the recent rule changes and "suggestions" has got me a little bummed about the whole thing. If a majority of USVTA racers really want these changes, then they should be made. But, if these changes are only really supported by a minority of active VTA racers, then they're likely to hurt our class much more than strengthen it. I'm just hoping my local track takes a much more moderate approach to all this than what's been seen here.
I took it out though and probably won't replace it unless I have to. Where I race many of the VTA cars don't even have the 4 numbers on them as per USVTA rules, so I can't really see anyone enforcing the driver one there.
On a side note, I got into VTA because I thought it was a cool class and fairly mellow compared to some of the other classes out there. However, all the bickering about the recent rule changes and "suggestions" has got me a little bummed about the whole thing. If a majority of USVTA racers really want these changes, then they should be made. But, if these changes are only really supported by a minority of active VTA racers, then they're likely to hurt our class much more than strengthen it. I'm just hoping my local track takes a much more moderate approach to all this than what's been seen here.
i personally would just like to have an official part number to an online hobby shop for the driver figure like they do with the bodies, tires, and wheels allowed . There is race I am thinking of maybe going to which uses strict USVTA rules for one of there classes, so to be legal, I need that info.
#6491
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I agree 100% on a zero load free rev. For a 21.5, its not revving near that high before turbo would come on. Technically its not a true free rev no load test. It is still loaded by drive train, wheels and tires. I would never ever advocate running a motor with no load on the shaft.
#6493
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
We had about 3 pages of guys complaining about the driver heads. I felt it necessary to put it in the rules. I know very few of you will probably ever put a driver head in you car, since very few tracks will ever enforce this rule. It's a lot like the suggestions for paint, or the rules for numbers.
As far as the speedo thing #1:"Note: Current testing shows that speed controls set to 10 degrees timing advance, with no additional "Boost" or "Turbo" functions, or profile #1 on LRP speed controls are very close in speed. This is a suggestion for those tracks having a disparity between cars equipped with high timing ESCs and those without."
This is only informational for those who think that the high timing ESCs are a problem. I will make this more clear in the rules.
I get a lot of people on this thread who are going to stop running trans am, or think I am wrecking everything, if I'm making suggestions to slow the cars, or make things more equal, or encourage some scale realism. I have been racing since 1988, so I have seen a few things (note: you don't have to tell me you have been racing since 1979, I just want you to know I'm not just off the turnip truck). Unfortunately, every class will devolve if care is not taken to guide it at the appropriate moment.
We allowed brushless- 27t motors were about to be obsolete. The class still grew.
We allowed lipo/21.5- NIMH were falling completely out of favor with the vast majority of racers. The class grew
Now, over the last 6 months or so, the programmable escs of all sorts are becoming faster and faster. The cars are faster and faster. A good driver can run an older style esc, and be very competitive on smaller tracks if his car is good. I watched all summer as the cars blasted around the track, in some cases almost as fast as 17.5 down the straight. I know other people have seen the same phenomenon. So I want to work towards slowing the cars. Unfortunately, I seem to get a lot of grief about this.
I'll try to develop the rules as best I can, with those who can see why I want to do things in this way. Ultimately, it's up to you to run your race tracks, and make decisions on what works for you.
As far as the speedo thing #1:"Note: Current testing shows that speed controls set to 10 degrees timing advance, with no additional "Boost" or "Turbo" functions, or profile #1 on LRP speed controls are very close in speed. This is a suggestion for those tracks having a disparity between cars equipped with high timing ESCs and those without."
This is only informational for those who think that the high timing ESCs are a problem. I will make this more clear in the rules.
I get a lot of people on this thread who are going to stop running trans am, or think I am wrecking everything, if I'm making suggestions to slow the cars, or make things more equal, or encourage some scale realism. I have been racing since 1988, so I have seen a few things (note: you don't have to tell me you have been racing since 1979, I just want you to know I'm not just off the turnip truck). Unfortunately, every class will devolve if care is not taken to guide it at the appropriate moment.
We allowed brushless- 27t motors were about to be obsolete. The class still grew.
We allowed lipo/21.5- NIMH were falling completely out of favor with the vast majority of racers. The class grew
Now, over the last 6 months or so, the programmable escs of all sorts are becoming faster and faster. The cars are faster and faster. A good driver can run an older style esc, and be very competitive on smaller tracks if his car is good. I watched all summer as the cars blasted around the track, in some cases almost as fast as 17.5 down the straight. I know other people have seen the same phenomenon. So I want to work towards slowing the cars. Unfortunately, I seem to get a lot of grief about this.
I'll try to develop the rules as best I can, with those who can see why I want to do things in this way. Ultimately, it's up to you to run your race tracks, and make decisions on what works for you.
#6494
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
I've got the RAM sound in mine (gas though) running off a 11.1V 350mah lipo. Its kinda soft though even with the speaker mounted outside the body... but if there were multiple cars it would be really cool! Wish it were smaller though. 1650 gr with sound and driver! Can't figure out how to get everything mounted to have the horn on the 3rd channel though. I did it with my old XXX-S but can't figure out how to do it with my TA05 IFS. It was a hoot to pull up behind someone and toot the horn!