Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing >

U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree1Likes

U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-01-2012, 01:55 PM
  #13966  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
 
snoopyrc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tunnel Hill GA
Posts: 5,046
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gguertin145
No just had people asking questions about what is and is not legal.

Thanks!
Look at that link that is the official rule set. Robk is in charge of it and sometimes you will find out about stuff here before the official rule set is changed. New speed controllers and bodies if and when they come out, but that link is where to get it.

You guys are going to have so much fun. I am telling your whole club ahead of time when you get this going your lives will be better.

Welcome to VTA!!!
snoopyrc is offline  
Old 03-01-2012, 06:16 PM
  #13967  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Originally Posted by gguertin145
No just had people asking questions about what is and is not legal.

Thanks!
Its really basic in this class. Aside from the ceramic hearings, only because its almost impossible to tech, you can not do anything to the motor except remove the blue ring. If you feel the need to rewind a stator or modify a rotor because you are running at the back of the pack then its time to look at setup and driver error as the cause. Not the equipment.

This class is pretty basic when you break it down. The rules are easy to follow and it makes for a ton of fun.
6376vette is offline  
Old 03-01-2012, 06:57 PM
  #13968  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,201
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gguertin145
Thanks! We are running a race at the end of the month and want to make sure we have the rules for everyone.

Is there a way to tell if they bought a hand wound stator or not or is it the same thing that comes with the motor? Someone said one is red wire vs orange.... is any of this making sense?
Did you know: All the Novak stators are hand wound? They are, I have been to the factory.

The oval guys seem to think red wire is faster, so Novak sells them red wire stators for their application. This should not concern you for VTA racing.
robk is offline  
Old 03-01-2012, 07:40 PM
  #13969  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Originally Posted by robk
Did you know: All the Novak stators are hand wound? They are, I have been to the factory.

The oval guys seem to think red wire is faster, so Novak sells them red wire stators for their application. This should not concern you for VTA racing.
Yeah. The red wire does nothing for vta. Only purple heatsinks.
6376vette is offline  
Old 03-01-2012, 09:55 PM
  #13970  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,201
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 6376vette
Yeah. The red wire does nothing for vta. Only purple heatsinks.
???? Enlighten me.
robk is offline  
Old 03-01-2012, 10:22 PM
  #13971  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
 
GP40X's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 720
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by robk
Did you know: All the Novak stators are hand wound? They are, I have been to the factory.

The oval guys seem to think red wire is faster, so Novak sells them red wire stators for their application. This should not concern you for VTA racing.
We know it's not faster but it sure helps being more heat resistant (red wire Epoxy dipped stators). Gives you a little leeway when you car is coming off the track after 4 minutes with an average temp of 165°-175° WITH A FAN AND HEAT SINK Can you say ? Sure you can. And yes going around in circles is fun, you just need to do it really really fast (and hard packed clay helps )
GP40X is offline  
Old 03-02-2012, 04:38 AM
  #13972  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Originally Posted by robk
???? Enlighten me.
Just picking up the running joke about the purple heat sinks from a few pages back. Thought people might get a laugh out of it. Guess I missed the Mark on this one.
6376vette is offline  
Old 03-02-2012, 04:48 AM
  #13973  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Medina, Ohio
Posts: 1,839
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

A quick question:
With tires being hard to find, is there any thoughts on a possible replacement or alternate? HPI has not had the spec tires available for two months.
old_dude is offline  
Old 03-02-2012, 05:27 AM
  #13974  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 39
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

New to on road and VTA, I am building a car now and I have a question. When I installed my front wheels the back of the rim is rubbing on the top turn buckle ball cup. What options do I have to make the rims clear them and still have full contact with the hex drives? Thanks
Tightlines is offline  
Old 03-02-2012, 05:37 AM
  #13975  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Originally Posted by Tightlines
New to on road and VTA, I am building a car now and I have a question. When I installed my front wheels the back of the rim is rubbing on the top turn buckle ball cup. What options do I have to make the rims clear them and still have full contact with the hex drives? Thanks
Usually you can sand the back of the ball cup to clear the rim. This will not affect the performance of the ball cup.

I'm assuming the ball cup is contacting the inside of the rim and rubbing? If not please post pics.
6376vette is offline  
Old 03-02-2012, 05:38 AM
  #13976  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
 
Flying Monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ringgold, GA
Posts: 4,442
Trader Rating: 54 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Tightlines
New to on road and VTA, I am building a car now and I have a question. When I installed my front wheels the back of the rim is rubbing on the top turn buckle ball cup. What options do I have to make the rims clear them and still have full contact with the hex drives? Thanks
EDIT: NM...i was thinking bottom of shock...too early
Flying Monkey is offline  
Old 03-02-2012, 05:39 AM
  #13977  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
pejota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 1,022
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

i laughed!!!
Purple wins on sunday, sells on monday!!!
(and don't forget your cooling fan!)


Originally Posted by 6376vette
Just picking up the running joke about the purple heat sinks from a few pages back. Thought people might get a laugh out of it. Guess I missed the Mark on this one.
pejota is offline  
Old 03-02-2012, 05:41 AM
  #13978  
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
 
beemerfan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,709
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by GP40X
We know it's not faster but it sure helps being more heat resistant (red wire Epoxy dipped stators). Gives you a little leeway when you car is coming off the track after 4 minutes with an average temp of 165°-175° WITH A FAN AND HEAT SINK Can you say ? Sure you can. And yes going around in circles is fun, you just need to do it really really fast (and hard packed clay helps )
I knew about the Novak stators all being hand wound thing. But what I read on the Novak web site about red wire just seems to be that there is more attention to detail and quality checking on those stators. Epoxy dipped and red wire are two separate things that sell for the same price, which is slightly higher than the normal stators. Maybe it's just more of a marketing gimmick. I hope NovakTwo can weigh in here and explain it better for us. One thing I noticed is that there is no option on the current web site to purchase a red wire stator in 25.5. But how did I come to own one then? I picked up a used Ballistic and it came with a red wire stator in 25.5.

On another note... Old Dude you should read back about 5 pages. We just spent a lot of time on the tire discussion and it's definitely beating a dead horse at this point. Use the HPI vintage slicks or performance tires if you must, but the normal ones are going to start showing up again at distributors and on-line stores again by next week.
beemerfan is offline  
Old 03-02-2012, 05:43 AM
  #13979  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,369
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Tightlines
New to on road and VTA, I am building a car now and I have a question. When I installed my front wheels the back of the rim is rubbing on the top turn buckle ball cup. What options do I have to make the rims clear them and still have full contact with the hex drives? Thanks
With my TC4 I had a similar issue and I just shimmed out the wheel .5mm and that fixed any rubbing issues
jdeadman is offline  
Old 03-02-2012, 05:44 AM
  #13980  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 39
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Here is a picture, hex nut not tightened yet.
Tightlines is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.