deskwarmer

iTrader: (6)

I've looked around a bit and it seems like if you want a quality race tire, you pretty much have to go 24mm.

The thing is, I really like the assortment of cool looking 26mm wheels out there, e.g. HPI.

So, my question is, are there 26mm slicks & inserts out that are on par with the 24mm stuff out there?

thanks

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

Mos't don't run the 26mm anymore, but I always liked HPIs 26mm 15-40 compound slick with their Yellow formed 26mm insert. I would bet they will work very well still.

Here's a link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXM972&P=7

deskwarmer

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, tires look good. But unfortunately it looks like HPI has discontinued their 26mm pro molded foam lineup. I'll try calling them monday to ask.

Is it possible to fit a 24mm wheel & foam insert over a 26mm wheel? Has anyone tried this before?

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

Yep...it can be done. That used to be the hot ticket to get a smaller sidewall and a better feeling wheel setup.

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

Simply put if your racing go 24mm there never was a competative tire from HPI... YEs 15-40 had grip but when it was out sorex was doing laps around that tire...


Racers use dish wheels anyway! LOL leave the bling wheels for drifting!

deskwarmer

iTrader: (6)

See, I'm just not into the dish wheel look. Don't get me wrong though, I want performance, I just want style too.

I guess the other option is to find a mfg. that makes cool looking 24mm wheels.

I've been wondering why the TC racing industry uses a 24mm vs 26mm. My initial reaction was that a wider tire would offer more grip due to a larger contact patch.

The only thing that makes sense to me is that that the narrower contact patch of a 24mm tire allows more force to be directed onto a smaller area, creating a higher frictional force compared to the same amount of force spread over a larger contact patch.

You'd think the frictional forces would be the same, but maybe with the smaller contact patch you're able to get more heat.

Turbo Joe

iTrader: (41)

I think that's basically it. I know I've seem 21mm tires in the "red tag" bin before. You would get less loading on wider tires, so less heat and less grip.

So...I have to ask...LOL...if it's style you're after, why the fence posts?

deskwarmer

iTrader: (6)

hey man, when you're a rook like me, it helps to have a little roll cage to keep the scratches off the top.

Turbo Joe

iTrader: (41)

OIC..."vertical curb feelers".

It's cool though...everyone at the track used ot bust my chops for it as well...LOL...I'm just paying it forward.

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

We used to race on 22mm!!

I think that 26mm faded away as 24 was the perfect mix of contact patch,weight and clearance to suspention parts

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

The thing is that the rules for any organized racing on rubber tires are for 24mm tires. More contact patch than the old 22mm tires and less rolling resistance and better flowing handling than the 26mm. So any company making a good tire worth racing, is going to follow the rules of racing and be 24mm. As for the dish wheel "look," it's more than just a look thing. Believe it or not, they do actually improve aero performance and they're generally stronger. We'll even take into account how much flex different wheels have and how that will effect the amount of traction they generate combined with different inserts, vent holes, tire sauce, warmers, etc... Again, racers want pure performance. Hence some of the ugly ass touring car bodies that we all run because they're the ones that work the best and are legal. No offense meant, but the Lotus body you posted, no serious racer would ever run that thing unless everyone had to. Scale bodies like that just don't work as well as the distorted performance oriented bodies we race with. Bling wheels and bodies are made for the drifters and bashers. They're great for that. And if that's what you're doing, great. Have fun with it. But you're just not going to find anything like that that's going to perform in a true race situation as well unless it's a spec class and everyone is limited to it.

deskwarmer

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I'm sure those performance bodies add some downforce. I've run without a rear wing before (dam curb) and noticed a big difference in rear end stability at speed.

As far as dish wheels go, I think thats interesting you're tuning by wheel deflection. Are you guys actually measuring deflection vs. load? If so, do you have any numbers?

Yeah, I can believe dish wheels are more aerodynamic, but geez, can you actually tell a difference using dish or non-dish?

But yeah, I'm just trying to get as much performance (to a point, this is just for fun for me) as I can with my realistic looking bodies and wheels. For the same reason why people like full scale TC racing, its a car they can relate to.

Thanks for all the input guys!

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I hearby vow to never purchase anything ever from rc-mushroom

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

I found this strange little button at the bottom of the page: CONTACT US

Why not take up your 1200$ business transaction in private???


[email protected]

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I don't really have any kind of numbers on the deflection of the wheels. It's more of a feel thing. A couple of years ago, RP switched from a hard ABS wheel to a softer nylon wheel on their premounts, everyone was wondering why all of a sudden they were picking up a couple of tenths a lap. Same when they went from a spoke wheel to a dish wheel on the CS27 premounts. Proves it's not just in our heads. As for the bodies, they give more downforce yes. But they also give down force in different ways so each one handles differently. Guys like me do this for fun too. I'm no pro driver. I'm a weekend warrior who likes to go to a big race or two. But even at weekly club races, when you're running pro mod with factory guys, every little bit to try and hang with them counts.

Also- I agree with Matt. RC Mushroom just lost any chance of getting any orders from me.