M-04 Opinions
 

Hi, I'm after some owners opinions on the Tamiya M-04M/L chassis.

I've heard a bad rap about these little buggers, people saying they're mediocre-at-best handlers, they don't transfer power well, and they're crap all-round chassis'. I however, don't believe it yet.

I'm interested in purchasing the Eunos MX5 (M-04M). I won't build it without bearings and suspension modifications (i.e. fully raced and oil-filled dampers with low springs). I know all about the M-03, but nothing of how the M-04 would perform, and quite frankly I've wanted to know for yonks.

If you can provide any insight in depth of how these RWD machines go, I'll throw bricks at an offended roosevelt and be forever grateful.

Thanks,

Jason.

The cars are a handful and require a lot of practice, a lot of patience, and a lot of time to get setup right to handle well. When compared to an M03, you can throw just about any setup in the M03 and have it working well, but the M04 is always ready to spin.

Just to give you an idea, this is the only kit Tamiya makes where the give you a different compound tire for the front and rear in the box! This is to give the rear soft tires and the front hard tires to try and get it to push instead of spinning everywhere.

If you get this kit, it is rewarding when you finally have the shocks right where you can play with the M03s, but it is aggrivating when it is not right.

Ok heres the deal -

The MO3 is the all around favorite due to its versatility. At race level the MO3 is more consistant more forgiving and easier to drive.

The MO4 is faster an larger tracks to the extra tooth pinion allowed i.e. Maimum pinion for the MO3 is a 20 tooth and the MO4 has a 21 tooth capacity. Ten percent equavalates to a couple of tenths on certain tracks. The MO4 is by far a much harder car to setup but when it works its fast.
Scenario: TCS Regionals a driver put his MO4 out on a practice session 2 saturdays before regionals and it was fast and on rails. 2 weeks later he pulled his car out changed nothing I mean nothing and his car looked like it was on an ice rink. But he has two cars to choose from when entering a race and when the time comes when the MO4 is working its a tuff car to beat. Unless you tap him just a little and then he goes spinning as were the MO3 will pull out of most rubbing and banging.

I choose the MO3 swift hence the name its all in the driving style

Short chassis - Aggressive corner to corner driving kinda like a 12th scale
Mid Chassis - Smooth deliberate lines kinda like a sedan

Good luck
:tire::tire::tire:

I'm thinking I'll go ahead with an M-04. I reckon if I can get it set up just right, it could be quite satisfying.

thanks for the info guys.

Heheh.... join the club... :)

Get an M04L, and you'll never look back... had mine out for practice last saturday, and it ran pretty good, even with the friction shocks...:lol::lol::lol: Yeah, its a bit of a handful compared to the M03, but when the setup is right, it'll hammer! Just got to watch the bump-steer!

Can the Long Arms Suspension fit the M04? It should widen the track full width though. Anybody tried it?

Hi,

I have a M04 and i must say that i enjoy it better than an M03. I run the car with a full set of bearings,oil dampers ( i run mini cva [not the super mini]), the blue aluminium thingy's that hold the servo to the car ,blue turnbuckles, a tamiya motor heatsink and another heatsink on the motor.

There's nothing that shouts performance on the hop ups, just reliability.It drives pleasantly (IMHO) as compared to the m03.Get the car to set up right on the track and u'd be surprised.

I have a set of ABChobby slicks and Spice tyres that run very well on the local track. A slight difference as compared to the stock tamiya tyres that was included in the box.Tamiya tyres made the car all skatey.Doesnt spin out or anything, but doesnt turn as tight as the other tyres mentioned.

It runs like a very mild F103GT..very realistic with fast in, slow out coming into the corners.Hope u enjoy it too.

Regards
EE

Hi EE,

Thanks for sharing on ABC mini slicks. Appreciate that.;)

well Jason, it looks like we might be going for the 04 then...sweet...i wont be gettin 1 for a while but yea....

if ya want....we can rcmart them both as 1..but i cbf atm

Short chassis - Aggressive corner to corner driving kinda like a 12th scale
Mid Chassis - Smooth deliberate lines kinda like a sedan
HOW ABOUT M03L-???

I run a M04M in our local club race and love it! Being able to run RP Mini Slicks really steps up the performance of this chassis!

I used to run a M03M Swift and did quite well with it. But I feel the M04M is actually easier to drive on our track compared to an M03M IMO.

The M04M for me feels easier to drive and stay consistent, as where the M03M seemed to make you work more to be consistent. For me atleast :D

I am using the same shock setup from my M03M on the M04M as well.

Another thing is I am running a Silver Can in the M04M and it is as fast as most of the M03M's running Black Cans.

Someone here tried to get their car to work with the TL01 suspension arms, which would effectively give you the wider car and said it was a junk setup.

As others have already stated, the M-04 is a blessing to drive ONLY when it is properly dialed for the surface you're using it on. They are extremely frustrating & nearly impossible to compete with if they aren't hooking up... but on the other hand, if you get the tires & suspension matched for the track, WOW big fun & very fast lines.

My preferred setup is CVA super mini dampers set very low(47mm) in front, & 52mm rear... springs, valving & oil depends on the tires & surface, but I generally set mine up really soft outside on rubber. As for tires, the Spice belted slicks or RPs are the only way to go for me... when you get the right compound for the track temperature(this can be tricky & is a matter of trial & error), the M04 is awesome! Quick turn in, loads of on-power grip & fast corner exit speed.

Another thing that helps these cars is to mount the ESC & receiver of the sides on the chassis(saddle-style), towards the front. This helps equal out the weight distribution, lowers the center of gravity(required to use the high-grip slicks) & adds more bite to the front tires(in my experience). Believe it or not, I have been able to push my M-04L(MB SLK) for everything it's worth, & not traction roll even with full-size RP30s on the stock kit wheels(touring car size)... all due to the weight distribution & low CG. I use the mini RPs on my M-04M(Alfa) however, & it lifts the inside front wheel when entering every tight corner. Crazy grip!

I love M-03s, but highly recommend a M-04 also , as long as you are patient & willing to do some testing & tuning to get it dialed. I chased the M-04 set up for months before finally getting it down to a science, & it was well worth it in the end :nod:

Mitchell

I had some success with the M04 at my local track. Here's some stuff that worked for me...

Front end: CVA super mini
1. Zero rebound in front. put inner spacers to limit the shock to that ride height so it has zero droop. I have my ride height set to 4mm.
2. Gold springs up front. The kit gold springs.
3. 60wt oil, two pistons. No matter, as long as you have zero rebound.
4. Eliminate bump steer. put the ball end on top of the knuckle instead of the bottom. Shave the servo saver where the two ball ends are placed so they are flush with the arm(they are raised initially) Alsoput one of the rings from the high torque servo saver over the stock saver assembly.
5. I use spice 32 with a HARD insert

Rear end: TRF shocks (you can do minute adjustment to height with these)
1. Make it so the shock length is about 56-57mm. You will get a good amount of droop from this. ride height about 4mm.
2. Tamiya (#53635) - Tamiya Super Hard Spring. Yes, super hard lol.
3. 40wt, two hole piston(trf)
4. I put about 20g of lead weight under the rear bumper for more traction.
5. Spice32 SOFT insert
6. Ball diff. Pretty tight. to the point where you can spin the motor with one tire. but not LOCKED.
7. widen the track width by adding spacers on your axle, as far as the nut will take it.

Misc:
1. I used parts from my M03R to make a M04R(?) basically all the blue parts lol. The car is stable with 1.5 rear toe, and I use the bottom hole for the rear upper arm.
2. Adjustable camber. The upper arm set from 3racing. I actually give positive camber to the front and rear. The sus.geometry makes it so the camber changes a lot. By giving it some postive camber, the rear will become 0 on accelaration, and still have enough neg. camber on a hard turn.

Now, this setting is for a car that uses a sliver can w/21tooth. I run on a prepped track with sugar water. The M03s with blk can is just slightly faster on the straight, but I out turn/accelerate them. I can start from third, and get to first by turn one.

Great car to drive.

All I can say is that I got very frustrated and angry that I took it all apart and threw it away. I enjoy driving the M03. But I enjoyed F201 more. And
F103GT is the best!