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Old 10-27-2007, 10:47 PM   #1
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Default RC12L3

Are RC12L3's an easy car to drive because I've been driving 1/10 scale touring and 1/10th pan car. Also would $100 be a good deal for a used car with painted body and servo. I've also been BMX racing for the summer and if anyone has any tips to help further improve my driving skillz they would be greatly apreciated
Thanks,
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Old 10-27-2007, 11:59 PM   #2
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Hi Colin,

I got myself a used RC12L3 a while ago but only ran it recently.
I opted for the L3 because it runs 6cell saddle packs. Just like most of my other TCs and buggies.
It took a short while to switch driving style from 1/10 TC. Nothing to difficult really. I think it should be quite similar to your 1/10 pan car?
It has been really enjoyable to drive. It's ONLY asphalt tracks where I am.

I feel that running a low torque motor has makes the car quite driveable. I dropped in a high power 23t motor but was faced with too much drive in the rear wheels. Back to my trusty old sport tuned for the time being.

Can't comment on pricing as different parts of the world may attach different values to different classes of cars.

Hope this helps.

BTW, I'm toying with the idea of a 1/10 Pan touring car. Like CRC Pantoura or AE RC10L3T. Any comment on that? Can't seem to find one though
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Old 10-28-2007, 09:48 AM   #3
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I would say that $100 is pretty pricey unless its a high end servo, or super custom painted shell. For example, I recently bought an l4 with spare parts and a nice custom shell for $125. As for drivability alot depends on what your intended usage is. The l3 is a very old car and would not be really competitive for racing. If your goal is parking lot bashing then its fine. If you want to race this class you would be better off getting an l4 or an older CRC model, both can be had as rollers w/servos for $100 here on the FS forum.
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Old 10-28-2007, 07:48 PM   #4
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Thanks, I got the car today and I also got a Reedy stock MVP motor and for the first time ever driving 1/12 it feels awsome compared to my touring car and 1/10 pancar. I got the car from a guy by the name of Rob Doust he takes awsome care of his cars and equipment. The only thing my little brother broke (not lieying here) was the old servo saver but thankfuly we were only racing fun class and and 1/12 pancar and we had my 1/10 on hand the only thing I'm concerned about is the tuning because the guy that sold it to me said the srews may pop out every once and a while. Should loctite fix that? The next thing is bodies should I get another PROTOform or try a different style body?
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Old 10-28-2007, 07:50 PM   #5
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hardrider, I have the old Bolink pancar ( $25 speacial on ebay) the only downside is the rarity of parts
hope this helps
Colin
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Old 10-29-2007, 05:14 AM   #6
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I would suggest using a little loctite on the screws that are loose and checking them after every run - just do not goop the heck out of them. I ran my main with a loose screw and t-plate broken because I did not do a quick check on everything - pays off in the long run.

For body - I would use what you can get since you are just getting into it. I have run 13+ years and can really not tell the difference between the bodies for performance. I would buy one and do a spray can paint job - would not suggest getting a nice body until you feel confident enough that it wont get damaged.

Keep checking your tire diameter and roll out to stay in the power zone - tires where quick based on your driving and will affect the car performance.

Good luck and have fun!

Also search here on teh boards - Rich Chang has a 1/12 scale cheat sheet somewhere that helps out setting up the car and understanding how the car works - also Mark Payne has a good site!

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Old 10-29-2007, 11:08 PM   #7
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So what you guys are saying is make sure that the car is setup properly? I am runing a Reedy stock MVP motor with GP 3300 4-Cell sadle style and a half deecent ESC. Can you give me Mark Payne's website so I can take a look
thanks,
Colin
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:10 AM   #8
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mark payne's site
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Old 01-08-2011, 04:19 PM   #9
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No post since 2007...

Hmmm..

Still have one of these, and looking to run it.

They do a single cell lipo and 17.5 brushless..

Will this work on this chassis?

thanks

james
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Old 01-08-2011, 05:50 PM   #10
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You will be alright running that. Speedzone has a 1s saddle pack that will fit the car perfectly.









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No post since 2007...

Hmmm..

Still have one of these, and looking to run it.

They do a single cell lipo and 17.5 brushless..

Will this work on this chassis?

thanks

james
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Old 01-08-2011, 06:26 PM   #11
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So does everything in a car run on 3.7v? I thought cutoffs on esc's were higher than that.. so to run 3.7v am I going to need new esc, servo?

thanks

James
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Old 01-08-2011, 07:05 PM   #12
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Default ESC Booster

I run 9 volt battery to power the receiver, ESC and servo.
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Old 01-08-2011, 09:21 PM   #13
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From what I seen most people are using either a Booster or 6.6 volt Life battery. What kind of electonics are you using?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
So does everything in a car run on 3.7v? I thought cutoffs on esc's were higher than that.. so to run 3.7v am I going to need new esc, servo?

thanks

James
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
From what I seen most people are using either a Booster or 6.6 volt Life battery. What kind of electonics are you using?
ahh yes... just read about this booster - as I said I have been out for a bit.

well.. not sure to run this car.. or pickup a used Gen X .. I also see the costs of new 1/12 have come down. A Gen XL is $199

I am a casual racer, and 1/12 has never been my fav, but it is at the moment a very popular class, and if you have raced for any time you have to go where the entries are.

I like VTA idea.. but that seems to be dying off around here. 200mm (1/10) pan is very big.. but I dont own one.

thanks
James
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Old 01-22-2015, 09:29 AM   #15
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Still have one trying to sell any market for them?
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