alf.skaar

TurboT
Thanks

"I actually like the solid chassis"

Me to but what can we do, the battery and the motors are getting
more heavy every time they release a new battery or motor

today it is 59 gram, the GenX is 49 gram

30 gram will be the dream :-)

I hop to get in down to 44 gram

Alf :-)

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Alf,

I see you are trying to remove weight and that is cool but be careful how you achieve that. Excessive pocketing can hurt the chassis plate by causing it to buckle or potato chip. The reason for this is due to the construction of carbon fiber. All of the layers are mirrored off of the center so what will happen is you will remove stress from one side of the center only and this can create a bow. The best way i have found to remove weight it starting from the highest point on the car and moving down. Hope this helps buddy.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

Alf,

Thanks again, I'll PM you with a few questions to keep the thread on topic.

David

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

If you mill out the top of the chassis, you could mount your electronics lower.

alf.skaar

Thanks great! to get fed back on this

protc3, Jason
If i'm getting you right, you mean i have to cut through
the chassis right ?

Pro ten Holland
If i do it on the top, it will create a problem
with Somme ESC, since you will have to leave some off the carbon fiber
and then you will have problems mount it
well if every body are using the same electronics then
this can be done, but what Jason pointed out doing pocketing this are
probably not a solution.

This got me thinking off Somme off my Windsurfing skills, wen i made some fins
if i make a mold i will be abel to make it strong were it have to be and light
i talking about the sandwich construction used in windsurfing boards
a High density form, then it will be possible to make the chassis
with out any cutout but inside it will be a mix off carbon fiber and foam

Alf :-)

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

if you cut around the red area in the attached picture you could pretty much mount any esc.
Only something as big as a novak gtb wouldn't fit, but you can always use 2 layers of tape.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Alf,

You should give DA Graphite a call. He has a material similar to what you speak of and the price is alot less than standard carbon fiber.

What i was saying about the pocketing is not to go to crazy with it. You can do some but try not to break into many through pockets or walls and dont do alot of large areas. THe chassis starts to bow.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Pro ten - Yes, cutting through the chassis is better than extreme pocketing. Just keep the area of the through holes reasonable as you can introduce a lot of flex if you go too far and then suspension changes have less impact on the cars handling.

Giorgio

iTrader: (1)

Excellent job.

Do you use SolidEdge for drawing?

alf.skaar

Pro ten Holland
Thanks

protc3
Thanks
I will give he a call

AdrianM
Thanks

Giorgio
A very old version off Solidworks

What about drilling a lot off holes ?

Alf :-)

Giorgio

iTrader: (1)

Alf

I've asked because I just move from 2D (Acad Mech Desk) to 3D (SolidEdge). In my past I've drawn several machines (f1 and Touring chassis upgrades).
I would have removed a bit of material under the front end. You have already the nylon/derlin items, you don't need all the material there.

Instead of pocketed area, try to find some area where you will put the electronics and remove (hole) the area below.

Excellent job.

Ciao
Giorgio

HappyHippo

iTrader: (12)

Way to go Alf, the car looks good

alf.skaar

HappyHippo
Thanks
In case anyone wonders what i'm doing, i center the servo
before setting the to out, i have made a center hole for this, but i have to make
some sort of a pin to use it.This for centering the servo perfect.

What about this ?
Will be very strong and not cut through, drilling 2.25 mm chassis is 2.5 mm

Alf :-)

alf.skaar

I think that this can work

have any ever try this ?

Alf :-)

OscarF1

Hi,

when creating holes and gaps to make things lighter you should
be thinking in lines between points of stress.

Connect the ponts or holes that support components
en greate gaps between those lines.

You also should be aware of the post stamp effect.
It is easy to break somthing when holes line up.

I realy like your effort to continue the 1:12 evolution.

For a few months I own and drive a 1:12 car but got
already som ideas for a simpeler concept.

In 1:10 touringcars it is a great benefit to move the battery as much to center as possible.
I assum that is the same with 1:12.
In the concept i am thinking of,
the battery will be placed as 4 cells in the middle of the car,
and the T-bar placed to the outside of the car.

Anyway this winter I wil make some prototypes to test on the track.