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Old 09-05-2006, 11:39 AM   #14626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxpitbull
Well, considering everybody uses a different set-up, electronics, motors, batteries and etc etc, speed will definately vary. I can tell you, running the Novak GTB/4.5 in my Pro 4, the car is an absolute rocket! But, I am running a top of the line Pro 4. Not for the squeamish, if your driving skills need tweaking, get that pratice time in because one sizable crash and it's a wrap. Turn signal....I bought my car new and a used one from a member on the RCtech forum for spare parts. If you can afford it, buy new. Not to push into a realm of the loathed associated, but Team Associated is dumping the american rival to the Pro 4, the TC4 for a damn good price. http://www.rc10.com/misc/internet_specials.htm. Everyone is moving to belt driven vehicles. IMO, I'll stick with shaft. The power of motors coming out will eventually chew the belt to ribbons. Shaft, easier to replace and IMO, more durable.
hey, thanks for the quick reply mate! good info there, and i have taken it all in. Also that link you gave me and saying the price for it was really cheap, looks really nice dun it, and yeh, it is very cheap, only $299! that is cheap! That's only about 160 in United Kingdom pounds! Very cheap, i really might think about buying it [when i've got the money of course] or, just as a christmas present. Anyways, thanks again for all that, very good post. Hope to speek to you again! bye!

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Old 09-05-2006, 03:28 PM   #14627
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Default Looks like HPI is shitting on us

Calling HPI about metal bulkheads (did someone say Evo 5). They tell me that HPI isnt going that route for the Pro 4. I then asked if the bulkheads from the Cyclone will fit, considering the cars are pretty much identical. He tells me no one tried it and that the Hot Bodies people work differently than the HPI people. I then go to the HPI website and not only is the Pro 4 discontinued, but the Hara is listed as discontinued as well. They are shitting on us Pro 4 owners and it's a damned shame! I'm pissed as phuck right now!
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:47 PM   #14628
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:47 PM   #14629
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:49 PM   #14630
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Can someone tell me the website for the guy on rctech that was making graphite center shafts for the Pro 4?

Thanks!


Sorry for the tripple posts.
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:56 PM   #14631
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i just got my pro 4 and took around for a few laps in my backyard and i love it. i also drift this car a bit aswell and it drifts like a dream but i have to admit that the steering knuckles are a bit weak so im lookin into buy some aluminum ones all in all i tihnk its wonderfuly built and should continue to rule on the racing tracks
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Old 09-05-2006, 09:03 PM   #14632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gezer2u
Can someone tell me the website for the guy on rctech that was making graphite center shafts for the Pro 4?

Thanks!


Sorry for the tripple posts.

http://home.wideopenwest.com/~ewippler9289/
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Old 09-07-2006, 10:17 PM   #14633
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I seem to be having issues with my front differential. It clicks a bit on initial acceleration and on corners. I've rebuilt it a coupe of times and it's good for about half a run and then it starts clicking again. I'm tempted to just use the one-way and be done with it but I'd really like to have a front diff. I'm only running 4 cell stock so I doubt it's too much power or anything like that. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 09-07-2006, 10:22 PM   #14634
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mine clicks aswell but i tihnk its normal maybe not?
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Old 09-07-2006, 10:32 PM   #14635
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check your bevel gears and the pins on the CVD's
also check the upper steering linkage..it might be hitting the driveshaft pin.
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Old 09-07-2006, 11:48 PM   #14636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Suzuki
mine clicks aswell but i tihnk its normal maybe not?
Not really.

Just open diffbox and adjust bevel gear mesh "closer" using those shims between ball bearings and outdrives. It's all about the bigger gear - it tends to tilt away from the smaller bevel gear under load.

The tricky part is not to "overload" the diff gears by adjusting their mesh.
The same rule applies to diff shimming between the big ball bearings - it should not move left-right, but ball bearings must remain "untensioned" to spin freely.
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Old 09-08-2006, 07:39 AM   #14637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
check your bevel gears and the pins on the CVD's
also check the upper steering linkage..it might be hitting the driveshaft pin.
Yeah, I checked all that. It's definitely in the diff because when I put my one-way in the noise went away. I used the same shims as the ball diff so I don't think it's bevel gear adjustment but I haven't tried to adjust that yet. I'll do that I guess and see where I go.
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Old 09-08-2006, 12:40 PM   #14638
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My pro4 Hara was clicking quite bad, so changed to the same shimming which was on my old pro4 (silver washer on each side of the diff) but was still clicking. I ended up lifting the whole transmission (including cases) from the old car to the new, and now its great! The moulding of the cases may have been slightly different, but i just couldnt get the noise to go away with the new cases.

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Old 09-08-2006, 05:16 PM   #14639
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The shims will be different for different diffs, regardless of whether they're ball, one-way, spool etc.

Every single diff you own might have slightly different shimming so do check it out. When you shim it, make sure the bearings are seated in the recesses on the lower clamshell properly.

Take care - the bearings may move outwards when you put the top on, so physically move them out as far as they will go (there will be slight play), and shim them up until the large bevel gear cannot move away from the smaller gear if you wiggle the diff/spool/ball diff...

This is the surest way of doing things..

THat large bevel doesn't have to be tight on the smaller gear. Not at all - adjust it like you adjust your motor pinion mesh. But you just have to make sure it cannot move AWAY in any circumstance.

If you follow these steps, it'll turn out right every time.
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Old 09-08-2006, 07:59 PM   #14640
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That's the one! Thanks GreaseMonkey!
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