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Old 08-15-2006, 11:00 AM   #14611
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Thanks for everyone's feedback. I have loosen the top plate and twisted it a little to make sure the tweak is free. It is just sitting there still. I will have to tighten it and check if the problem is gone. If not, I will have to further investigate the problems . Thanks!
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Old 08-17-2006, 10:00 PM   #14612
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What is the smallest 64 pitch spur gear I can fit on a pro 4.
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Old 08-18-2006, 03:13 AM   #14613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey
What is the smallest 64 pitch spur gear I can fit on a pro 4.
Smallest 64 pitch spur that would fit in the Pro4 is 93t and the largest is 103t.

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Old 08-18-2006, 03:19 AM   #14614
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I have a 88 tooth 64 pitch in my pro 4. I think HPI only go down to a 93 but you can get smaller from other manufacturers. Mine is from R&R

I currently have the old 04 Pro 4 with the 3mm chassis blah blah, How much better is the 2005 edition?
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Old 08-18-2006, 04:05 AM   #14615
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Don't know about 2005 as i have Hara. I also had 1.1 before.

Not too much difference except that i found that Hara out of the box went like 1.1 which i was setting up (and searching for my favorite ballance) for about a year

Somehow Hara's rear diff works smoother (i had delrin outdrives on previous pro4 as well). I can't explain why

Plus.. Hara's shocks really do impress just after you assemble them And it seems that it handles a bit better on asphalt. But maybe that's only impression

BTW i like the motormount on Hara. Less problems with aligning pinion/spur and it's easier to rip out the motor
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:07 PM   #14616
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i have a question about carpet chassis'

where is the battery placement on the BMI in comparison to the HPI?
Has anyone run any of the non BMI aftermarket 3mm chassis on carpet?
has anyone used the hpi 3mm? if so have you tried any other 3mm for comparison?

im kinda in a tought spot not wanting to buy a cyclone and carpet chassis for it, so im thinking about just keeping my pro4 through the carpet season, but bmi no longer makes their chassis (unless 2 other people want to buy them since 3 is their minimum qty now (group buy anyone?)). There are a couple of other companies that produce 3mm chassis sets for the pro4 but i havent previously heard of anyone using them.
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:43 PM   #14617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floodo1
i have a question about carpet chassis'

where is the battery placement on the BMI in comparison to the HPI?
Has anyone run any of the non BMI aftermarket 3mm chassis on carpet?
has anyone used the hpi 3mm? if so have you tried any other 3mm for comparison?

im kinda in a tought spot not wanting to buy a cyclone and carpet chassis for it, so im thinking about just keeping my pro4 through the carpet season, but bmi no longer makes their chassis (unless 2 other people want to buy them since 3 is their minimum qty now (group buy anyone?)). There are a couple of other companies that produce 3mm chassis sets for the pro4 but i havent previously heard of anyone using them.
how much are they gonna cost? also have the picture of it? thanks

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Old 08-22-2006, 11:45 PM   #14618
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floodo1

are you racing rubber or foam on carpet? stock, 19T or Mod? at Stockton?
if rubber..the stock 2.5mm chassis works well.
I do have the HPI 3mm chassis...haven't had a chance to try it yet.

I did have the BMI chassis set... awesome craftsmanship.. all the edges beveled..even the battery cut-outs. Installed the car was supper stiff. I think the battery cut placement was about the same as the original.
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Old 08-23-2006, 08:23 AM   #14619
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I just put my 2mm chassis up against my BMI chassis and the battery cut outs are in the exact same place.

Of course, the original poster is asking about chassis other than the BMI chassis so my information is basically useless.
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Old 08-23-2006, 08:36 AM   #14620
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Floodo1

I have been running the stock chassis on a medium-to-low-bite carpet track, and I've finally got the setup where I'm comfortable with it.

I recently bought a second car from a fellow racer and he had it set up with the thicker chassis and top deck. The setup is a bit stiffer than what I was running on my other chassis, but it didn't seem dramatically different to me. Unless you're running on a consistently high-bite carpet track, the chassis probably isn't a necessary upgrade, especially if you consider the following:

I, too, have been drooling over the Cyclone. And like you, I can't see spending ~$500 for the kit, plus ~$130 for the BMI chassis kit, plus a front diff, etc. The news of the new Cyclone-S has me totally stoked! The kit will likely sell for about $200US and it includes a front diff instead of the one-ways that keep my pit-box from floating off the table.

If (and it's a big if) you've got a spare Pro-4 on the shelf, then you can swap everything over (with the exception of chassis and bulkheads - I'm not sure about the CVDs), and only be a chassis and a few bulkheads out of the game. If you wanted the BMI chassis anyway, you've already realized a huge savings.

To replace all of the bulkheads on the Cyclone-S with the Surikarn or Hara parts is about $150, but even then, you've beaten the game pretty well. And if you decide you preferred the shaft-drive car, you can just re-assemble it and sell the cheaper Cyclone kit off.

Anyway, that's my plan. I'll probably order the motor-mount/center-bulkhead set when I order the Cyclone-S chassis, and see if I still want the heavier (but stiffer) aluminum bits on down the road. Either way, I can put together a BMI Cyclone for a lot less that it would have cost 6 months ago.

Last edited by Johnboy Walton; 08-23-2006 at 08:38 AM. Reason: Edited for Spelling
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:33 PM   #14621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floodo1
i have a question about carpet chassis'

where is the battery placement on the BMI in comparison to the HPI?
Has anyone run any of the non BMI aftermarket 3mm chassis on carpet?
has anyone used the hpi 3mm? if so have you tried any other 3mm for comparison?

I'm kinda in a tough spot not wanting to buy a cyclone and carpet chassis for it, so I'm thinking about just keeping my pro4 through the carpet season, but bmi no longer makes their chassis (unless 2 other people want to buy them since 3 is their minimum qty now (group buy anyone?)). There are a couple of other companies that produce 3mm chassis sets for the pro4 but i haven't previously heard of anyone using them.
Josh...You know that I ran a BMI chassis on my Pro4 at my track...Right. I was super hooked up with that car, You know the set up I was using... Only difference was the sway bars. I was beating the Xrays with that car, But you know that... Hey shoot me an email, I still have the chassis and the 3 mm top deck. Maybe we could trade some oval stuff for it, Showtime is going to be running the high bank soon...Caps...
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:00 PM   #14622
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If you don't want to or can't get a BMI chassis, get another topdeck and run 2 topdecks. You may also glue them together if you want, but it's forever

I ran the car that way for a while on foam/carpet, and I almost think it was faster that way. When the car was first out, it was the only option.
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:27 AM   #14623
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Default Will the bulkheads from the Cyclone fit?

Considering the fact that the Cyclone is the belt version of the Pro 4 with some serious tweaks, anyone know if the bulkheads will fit the Pro 4? The Cyclone is dialed to the teeth and we know this. I just got my Pro 4 not 3 months ago and can't see myself parting ways with it to buy a more expensive car. That being said, if the bulkheads from the cyclone will fit, those aluminum parts (purple, blue or black take ur pick) would look trick and dial the Pro 4 in even further.
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Old 09-05-2006, 09:48 AM   #14624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxpitbull
Considering the fact that the Cyclone is the belt version of the Pro 4 with some serious tweaks, anyone know if the bulkheads will fit the Pro 4? The Cyclone is dialed to the teeth and we know this. I just got my Pro 4 not 3 months ago and can't see myself parting ways with it to buy a more expensive car. That being said, if the bulkheads from the cyclone will fit, those aluminum parts (purple, blue or black take ur pick) would look trick and dial the Pro 4 in even further.
Hi mate, so you have an HPI Pro 4, do ya? You see, after i have masted the basics of electric touring cars, i thought i could get one of these. Can you please give me some info of who deals them for a relitively cheap price, and how fast they go, do i need practise to drive them etc etc.

Thanks!

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Old 09-05-2006, 10:12 AM   #14625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rush evo dude
Hi mate, so you have an HPI Pro 4, do ya? You see, after i have masted the basics of electric touring cars, i thought i could get one of these. Can you please give me some info of who deals them for a relitively cheap price, and how fast they go, do i need practise to drive them etc etc.

Thanks!

Rush evo dude
Well, considering everybody uses a different set-up, electronics, motors, batteries and etc etc, speed will definately vary. I can tell you, running the Novak GTB/4.5 in my Pro 4, the car is an absolute rocket! But, I am running a top of the line Pro 4. Not for the squeamish, if your driving skills need tweaking, get that pratice time in because one sizable crash and it's a wrap. Turn signal....I bought my car new and a used one from a member on the RCtech forum for spare parts. If you can afford it, buy new. Not to push into a realm of the loathed associated, but Team Associated is dumping the american rival to the Pro 4, the TC4 for a damn good price. http://www.rc10.com/misc/internet_specials.htm. Everyone is moving to belt driven vehicles. IMO, I'll stick with shaft. The power of motors coming out will eventually chew the belt to ribbons. Shaft, easier to replace and IMO, more durable.
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