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Old 02-12-2004, 09:53 PM   #1441
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I haven't built this kit but it sounds like you are pinching a bearing. Have you loosened the top mount of the bearing that is near the motor and spur (aluminum clamp)? Take out the shaft and install the diffs like normal and see if they spin freely clamped down, if they do spin freely that it is shiming on the shaft of the shaft bearings are getting pinched by the case. I just think that people would have talked about this being a problem already. You may just need to run it one pack for it to wiggle itself free.
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Old 02-12-2004, 09:55 PM   #1442
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Default Re: front gear box

Quote:
Originally posted by rc_square24
Thanks for all the replies.

the shimmings are done as told in manual.

both the oneway and the input shaft is fine spinnning before the top half of the box is screwed, but when it is theres drag.

ive checked that its not the oneway cuz i had the top on without the input shaft, its the shaft thats causing the drag.

the bearings seems to be a tad too tight. not sure

MORE HELP PLEEEEEASE!!!
hi there,
try not to follow the manual's recommended shimming guide 100%. initially try out the stock shimming, if its too tight or has some rough spots, +/- shims as required, a trial n error style. this is because due to the gearboxes' molding, not every gearbox is 100% identical. my front gearbox was shimmed slightly different as per manual, i think mine has 1 less shim on the gear side as compared to what the manual recommended. do try it out, have a little patience and it'lll pay off eventually.
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Old 02-12-2004, 10:14 PM   #1443
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Here's my pro 4 with brushless
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File Type: jpg picture 183.jpg (87.2 KB, 379 views)
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:36 AM   #1444
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rc-zombies - Didn't you have a Yok SD before? If so, how would you compare the 2 cars? I like the fact that the SD can be configured with a tub chassis. But then again, I don't race carpet so it doesn't really matter. What are your thoughts? Anyone who has had both have any comments?
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:40 AM   #1445
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Quote:
Originally posted by snoopy
Here's my pro 4 with brushless
That's alot of ballast in there....
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:52 AM   #1446
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Quote:
Originally posted by rod_b
rc-zombies - Didn't you have a Yok SD before? If so, how would you compare the 2 cars? I like the fact that the SD can be configured with a tub chassis. But then again, I don't race carpet so it doesn't really matter. What are your thoughts? Anyone who has had both have any comments?
Yes...did have the SD and R2 WEB special...
the Pro4 was faster and handled better right out of the box! compared to the WEB...they are very equal. but the pro4 has a stiffer chassis set-up and less prone to tweaking. The Tub on the SD is great on Carpet...didn't get a chance to try it and don't race carpet much even though theres a track 1.5hrs away. The SSG was a bit more lateral flex and took me awhile to get it dialed... the stock set-up on the Pro4 is a great starting point and could only get better....
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Old 02-13-2004, 10:04 AM   #1447
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Wow, snoop dog that's a lot of weight on the side of that thing. Thank God it's not a boat or you might be in trouble....
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Old 02-13-2004, 12:02 PM   #1448
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
racer - Do you run on carpet? How's the stock setup with rubber carpet?
You can download Hara's DHI set-up from the Japan site for Carpet w/rubber tires...

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/...f/ha040116.pdf

It's also on the US site..might be included with the kits...

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in.../Pro4_pg43.jpg
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Last edited by rc-zombies; 02-13-2004 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 02-13-2004, 05:37 PM   #1449
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
That's alot of ballast in there....
......yes we have to run to minimum 1525g
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Old 02-14-2004, 12:55 PM   #1450
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Wrong topic but:

I ruined a brand new pack of 3300GP NIMH batteries today basically because I didn't know what I was doing... I hooked my new Orion Pro67 Charger up to the car, set it to peak charging mode. The cycle went from ~2.4V @3.0A initially to around 10V @ 3.0A after around 12 minutes. During this time I heard a regular 'pop' every minute or so. I was concerned at first, but since I haven't done this in a long time, thought it might be normal depending on the chemicals used in these cells. After around 14min I saw that the cells at the ends end were discharging a brown-liquid, albeit in small quantities. When I got closer to the batteries, they gave off a 'frying' sound. That can't be good!! I plugged them into my ESC - no power; I'm assuming they are.

So, before I go in another set and ruin them too, could someone please tell me how you usually handle a newly built battery pack? Was I supposed to charge them at a constant Amp rate first like 5.5 for X number of hours? Is there a calculation to figure this out? Also, I'm pretty sure the my charger handles NIMH, its advertised on the website, but Orion's instruction sheet, shipped with the device, says its designed for NICad. What gives?

Thanks!
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Old 02-14-2004, 01:22 PM   #1451
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You might check with Orion first. The Nimh has a small peak window when the charger has to detect the batteries full. It sounds as if you are charged it. Was it hot?
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Old 02-14-2004, 01:42 PM   #1452
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DO NOT USE YOUR CHARGER ANYMORE ! The charger's f'ed, send it back to Orion immediately. It happened to two of my friends, both had their batteries exploding because some components of the charger died and it did not peak, with the charging amps at max...

This charger is just crap, the electronic components used inside are of poor quality. I suggest you send it back and get rid of it asap.

edit - removed the "F" word. -TSR6

Last edited by TSR6; 02-14-2004 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 02-14-2004, 06:51 PM   #1453
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have a question for all you experts out there!

if the car is slugish while moving from chicane to chicane. what should i do? change the springs?

someone at my track suggested getting softer springs for the front?

btw. i use rubber on carpet

any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 02-14-2004, 07:48 PM   #1454
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racer - softer springs would make it even more sluggish. To make a car more responsive you go stiffer front spring. The stiffer the car is the quicker it will return to center and be prepared for the next turn. Try a shorter wheelbase to make the car more responsive and shorter camber links to stiffen the car up a bit (but be aware that this will give more camber change while the suspension compresses so this could make the car too darty when changing directions at high speed).

Granted, I am telling you this assuming that your car has steering already, there could be a chance that you are too stiff and the car is not rolling at all, thus you would need a softer spring but without seeing the car on the track or more info this is the best I can do.
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Old 02-14-2004, 11:12 PM   #1455
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I just bought pro4 at Ultimate Hobbies. They already have it in stock.
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