mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the reply guys, yeah im running a one-way in the front. But i dont use any braking, thats a habit from driving 540 silvercans. I tried putting a bit of creep on the controller but that didnt feel right since the track was so fast. Havent driven on such a big track before, and there arent many that big in sydney (australia). I hate working on the diff housings so i'll leave that as a last resort.

I think the car is rolling a bit, it used to be a lot worse, and i guess the high speed cornering accentuates the problem.

I have never actually tried playing with castor or the camber links, or roll centres. I was considering dialing out some of the toe in ill try putting on some more and see if that helps (although i suspect i also need to change my driving style)

Any way plenty of things to keep me occupied for a little while

Thanks again,
Mangoman

Nicadrauspro4

When using oneway diifs, you don't reaaly have to use brakes. Oneway diffs are not made for braking. Just release the throtle when approaching a corner. Oneway spool is for braking.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like you just found your problem Simple really, the car's is not balanced. You don't have weight transfer to the rear when you get on power. You need the rear weight transfer to generate rear grip. Firm up the front spring and soften the rear (you can lean the rear shock in on top and lean it out up front on top). Also for more rear weight transfer you can let out some front droop. Good luck.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Cheers, thanks MikeR.

Got the HPI Challenge on this weekend so the 17T motor is going to be interesting for me, especially since they are using sorex 36s and its winter over here. Lucky the track is super grippy from nitro's running on it, but if you get off the racing line man its a struggle.....

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Oh sorry MikeR btw when you say let out some droop, does that mean to try running with more droop?

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

I think by let some out... he means running a little less droop on the front. By "less" i mean a smaller number on the gauge. This will let the front arms sag a little more and allow more weight transfer to the rear on acceleration.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Sorry, to clarify 'let out some front droop' I mean let the front suspension have more down droop.

floodo1

the numbers for droop on hpi setup sheets are measured using the included tool. This measures how far the bottom of the arm is, in relation to the bottom of the chassis.
Therefor larger numbers mean that the arm droops down less.
This makes sense, typically you want less down travel in the front than in the rear......so you would have a higher number for the front.

However, I know that when I say "add some droop", what I mean is to DECREASE the number that the tool gives you. So "add some droop" if you're at 6 means go down to 5 or less. Which of course lets the arm travel down farther.

Idk how people measure their droop in the US vs the rest of the world. I know that a lot of people used to leave the tires on their car, and then measure how far from ride height you had to lift the car until the tires came off. This does give you a measurement, but its not very accurate since the tires are involved.

So use the tool, and remember higher numbers mean less down travel

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

I can't get myself to use a plastic tool so I've tossed mine out . I measure all my cars by removing the wheels, placing the car on a board and then measuring from the bottom of the wheel axle to the board. I've givin up long ago measuring from the arms because;
1. the botom of the arm has no relation on some cars from front to back. 5mm of droop on the front and 5mm of droop on the rear can actually create different actual droop numbers.

2. the arms don't take into affect your camber setting which can raise or lower your axle height AND therfore your droop (mystery tweak!). If you measure at your wheel axle with your camber already set then you'll know that the left and right wheel will be exactly even with each other.

Everyone has there own system. You ask ten people and you'll get ten different answers on droop. We all know what it does but we can't agree on how to measure it

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

1. - Does it matter whether the readings come up as teh same number front and rear? As long as you have a measurement right?

2. - I'm not sure i understand. What does droop have to do with tweak? Should you not set your droop the same left/right irrespective of camber and ride height?

I always assumed you set the droop, then set about working on tweak with rideheights later.. (Didn't even think of camber - that comes some where towards teh end of my settings before i go over it again..)

Or do you use droop as a tool to get rid of a tweak in a dynamic sense? That would be beyond my understanding..

3. - You threw it out! Damn.. im forever losing them. Should have sent it to me!!

I suppose you're right.. everyone has a different routine. besides.. i'm not consistent enough that a mm here or there reallys worries me! LMAO!

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

anybody have a spare rear shock tower that they want to sell?
reg. mail is fine going to Vallejo, CA 94591

PM me with details..

thanks!

bbking9

iTrader: (14)

My Pro 4 should be here tomorrow.

Anyone running BL setup? Which one?

What batteries are you running?

I plan on running Lipos for long run time. SHould I be looking at 7.4V or 11.1?

I am thinking of getting the Novak GTB so I can run brushed or brushless.

Your comments would be appreciated.

After doing some research I am dissapointed these exepnsive BL ESCs dont have voltage cutoff. My $75 Tekin Mini Rage does and so does a Mamba.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

the lrp shere competition does have a voltage cutoff

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

I ran my pro 4 with the novak 4.5 brushless motor, it ran great but have to be really smooth on the throttle

bbking9

iTrader: (14)

Hey Marcos,

Thanks for the info on the LRP. Did not know that.

Were you running 6 cell NIMH? If I am going to run LIPO should I stick with 7.4V - I presume?

I was thinking about the 5.5R. If I got a deal on a 4.5R which I am working on - I could turn down the throttle on the radio - right?

Also have a front ball diff coming to try if I dont like the one way (I like brakes).

Anything else I need to know about? I had an FK04 last year (replaced the one way in that as well).