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Old 06-01-2006, 03:46 PM   #14446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeguy
For me it was replacing the rear diff with a T2

I have had the sane problem with the Pro4. The rear and front diffs just do not want to stay tight with even new parts. Or smooth. It seems the nut is on the wrong side of the car.

Do you mean the diff screw and nut? I would be very surprise if the outdrives fit.
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:06 PM   #14447
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Originally Posted by Nicadrauspro4
It does work for most of us here. That's what most guys here set up their Pro4s with.
If, You suffered from the same issues (lack of rear traction) and you made the changes you suggested, you'd be swapping ends, in the corners, faster than you could blink! Your car would be lacking rear weight and side bite - neither of which is remedied by putting more weight over the front end. Your suggestions would work, if, you were going in a straight line because the raised rear would put the wing higher and allow it to catch more air. This would create more rear downforce, giving you more rear traction. You might want to re-think this.

*Regarding the droop setting: By keeping both ends equal, you don't allow the weight to transfer whether on or off power. To increase rear grip, while acelerating, you would need to increase the front droop. this will cause the front end to lift and send more weight to the rear wheels creating more traction.
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:22 PM   #14448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeguy
For me it was replacing the rear diff with a T2

I have had the sane problem with the Pro4. The rear and front diffs just do not want to stay tight with even new parts. Or smooth. It seems the nut is on the wrong side of the car.
I've found, that, if you replace the nut and use thread lock (give the thread lock ample time to cure) after a couple (maybe, three) months of weekly racing, the diff will need minimal adjusting at best. Although, the heavy duty bolt and nut will go a long way in helping the problem.
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:43 PM   #14449
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I suppose i'm lucky... My diffs have always been good!
It's only when i'm bad with the grease and rebuild that the diff slips. Then it's time for new balls and rings. But the nut has always been okay.. better when it's new.

I use a little threadlock too.

As for the camber.. i used to run 2 deg and found it a little much. The car doesn't really roll that much for the full 2 deg to have effect. And furthermore, the car doesn't spend much time at full sideway load either!!.


I normall run 1 or 1.5 deg now.. usually just 1.

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Old 06-04-2006, 10:27 PM   #14450
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What is the thinkness of the CF for the camber plates and bumper brace? These would be the hop-up versons for the pro4. Thanks
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Old 06-04-2006, 11:59 PM   #14451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raptor 700
What is the thinkness of the CF for the camber plates and bumper brace? These would be the hop-up versons for the pro4. Thanks

CF camber plate and bumper brace are both 2mm.

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Old 06-05-2006, 11:14 AM   #14452
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thanks on the CF thinkness.
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Old 06-08-2006, 08:27 AM   #14453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreatimpulse
Hi guys, I just tried oneway again today. Just as I remember, it has tons of steering. I pretty much gave all the rear tractioni that I could to the rear, but the rear is still very easy to come around . For those of you are good with oneway. Is there anyway to make the rear hookup with the front? Or do I just need to practice with throttle coming out of the turn?

I took out rear anti-roll bar, raised front roll center, stiffer springs up front, soften rear springs. More droop on the front(6.5), less droop at the back(5.5). Ride height: 4.5mm front and back. Anti-squad .5mm split. I am not sure what else to do.

I would appreciate any input. Thanks
What Surface are you running on? the Surface, Temp of Surface and Class of Motor will determine your Setup. It's not a 1 solution for all conditions. Asphalt requires lower Ride Height than Cement Cement needs a Higher Setup so the Droop and Ride Height is totally Different. Carpet is almost thesame for Asphalt but it means you will be Running on another set of Rubber cause Usually we can run on Sorex40 for asphalt but for Carpet,the most suitable to Use is Sorex 24 or 28 or its equivalent with other Brands. For Stock motor the rear Diff is tightened next to Slip but when on Modified Motors, there should be no Slip. plus the Shocks are moved one hole inward. it cannot be the other way around otherwise you loose Grip on the rear and Spin out.

Please DO include the Details of the Tracks you are Running with and Temperature. also if it's Technical, Highspeed or Compound and what type of Motor Class you are Running with. Im sure someone can help you with Specific Details.

Cheers!
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:49 AM   #14454
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is cyclone faster then pro 4?
is there big diference in hendling?
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Old 06-12-2006, 09:19 AM   #14455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomislav
is cyclone faster then pro 4?
is there big diference in hendling?
This question has been asked many times already. Both cars are just as fast and have the same gear ratio. I see on your signature that you own a couple of Pro4s and a Cyclone. Why don't you try comparing those cars and see what's better for you. Speed is easy but skill is not. So driving a certain car and racing with time will depend on your skills on the track.

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Old 06-12-2006, 02:04 PM   #14456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomislav
is cyclone faster then pro 4?
is there big diference in hendling?
you HAVE both cars
try driving them.
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Old 06-12-2006, 04:53 PM   #14457
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Lmao!!!
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Old 06-18-2006, 04:37 AM   #14458
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Hi there peoples, i was wondering if anyone can help me out with some suggestions. I've had a Pro 4 for a little while now but ive only just started driving stock (as opposed to wussy 540 :P).

I am finding that mid corner to late out of the corner that the rear end of the car is sliding out and just spinning, especially with only very slight throtle.
I found that holding a little more throtle helps to pull the car around but i'm not quite used to that yet. (Oh and that is with my end points turned down to 60-70%)

I know you guys dont know the setup of my car but does anyone have any ideas for things i should play with, although the front springs of the car feel really soft on the springs compared to the rear (and thats with the hardest 25 lbs/in springs). Ive ordered some TC3 springs which arent quite the right size but they go from 30-40 lbs/in.

Thanks....
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Old 06-18-2006, 05:04 AM   #14459
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are you running a oneway diff in the front? if you are that could be the cause... especially if you have some braking set up as neutral on your speed... may you should try a ball diff if you havent already...
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Old 06-18-2006, 05:15 AM   #14460
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mangoman - i've never played with a stock motor powered car. Only silvercan and mod.

But for mod, i generally use harder springs on the front than on the rear as per the kit settings. The Pro4 seems to already have ample steering. With the extra power, i'd rather have a car that is tending towards understeer so that i can drive it out of a corner ON the throttle. That is, using the throttle to gentle tighten the line, as opposed to a car that's too twitchy to do so consistently.

The kit settings are actually not bad for a mid-powered setup. Super general i know, but you will most likely need to run the car stiffer all 'round than in 540.

As always you can play with a little more toe, or perhaps run more castor to give more inital and less exit steering.

Also, try shortening the front camber link. this takes a little steering away but gives the car more consistency. Oversteer mid-exit.. is the car rolling much?

Try raising the rollcentres a little with the pivot block shims.

again - super general but hope that helps..
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