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Old 02-12-2004, 09:53 AM   #1411
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I wish I had one to build....
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Old 02-12-2004, 09:57 AM   #1412
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Me too
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Old 02-12-2004, 09:57 AM   #1413
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Teacher
I wish I had one to build....
I feel for you bro....
I know the feeling when I had all these option and spare parts for the car and no kit to build....
The kits should be arriving to the shops this week or next....

You can download the manual on the HPI site...while you wait.
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Old 02-12-2004, 01:23 PM   #1414
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Any idea if this Product D stuff they just listed is alum or Ti?

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/produ...2916771be7e5a4

I can't seem to find the manufacturer website anywhere and no details are listed...

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Old 02-12-2004, 01:28 PM   #1415
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Originally posted by jleibund
Any idea if this Product D stuff they just listed is alum or Ti?

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/produ...2916771be7e5a4

I can't seem to find the manufacturer website anywhere and no details are listed...

jleibund
They are the stronger 7075 aluminum... these are a bargain at only $11.50 for 2... HPI is $8.00 for 1 I wish I waited to buy my spare bones... I ordered some anyways...
I've used Product D stuff before on my SD...very good quality and fit. Product D is basically identical to Tobee Craft parts.
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Old 02-12-2004, 01:31 PM   #1416
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Do you think its worth it to wait for TIR's Ti dogbones for the sake of weight? I'm looking at some of Product D's other parts too...
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Old 02-12-2004, 01:34 PM   #1417
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all depends on how much money you want to spend... Ti bones may be lighter...just like aluminum they will bend.
very minimal advantage if you're racing...
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Old 02-12-2004, 01:41 PM   #1418
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Quote:
Originally posted by jleibund
Any idea if this Product D stuff they just listed is alum or Ti?

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/produ...2916771be7e5a4

I can't seem to find the manufacturer website anywhere and no details are listed...

jleibund
It looks like Aluminum
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Old 02-12-2004, 01:49 PM   #1419
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Ti is heavier than aluminum, but it still gives you the advantage of steel-like stregth in something close to the lightness of aluminum.

Also, aluminum pin holes on the CVD's wear faster than both steel and Ti. I wouldnt expect AL CVD pin holes to last much longer than a year and a half with weekly racing. The pin holes on my losi CVD's are shot after about a year and a month.
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Old 02-12-2004, 01:53 PM   #1420
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Pounds Per Cubic inch:

AL = .098
Ti = .16
Steel = .28

courtesy of racecarhelp.com, shameless plug.
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Old 02-12-2004, 02:07 PM   #1421
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With so much excess aluminum on the bones... I'm surprised that they don't drill 4 holes instead of 2..... when a set of holes wear out...just switch to the other..saving the racers some money from getting more bones... I guess the manufactures have figured this out...and they'e rather sell you more bones....
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Old 02-12-2004, 02:15 PM   #1422
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yeah i was in a bit of a hurry i wanted to have it ready for tonight but decided to take my time and have it ready for next friday. Thanks to all who replied. I found the part.
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Old 02-12-2004, 02:17 PM   #1423
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
With so much excess aluminum on the bones... I'm surprised that they don't drill 4 holes instead of 2..... when a set of holes wear out...just switch to the other..saving the racers some money from getting more bones... I guess the manufactures have figured this out...and they'e rather sell you more bones....
Anything they can make better as a hop up part to sell, they will. See xray.
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Old 02-12-2004, 02:20 PM   #1424
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Quote:
Originally posted by AWOLsoldier
Anything they can make better as a hop up part to sell, they will. See xray.
I had the Evo2...great car and craftsman ship... yea..on that car it's drilled for 4 and even the outdrives have mulitple slots...
can't wait for Xray to put out a shaft 10th sedan...
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Old 02-12-2004, 02:44 PM   #1425
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You can drill your own.
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