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Old 03-19-2006, 12:07 PM   #14071
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Now that my driving is improving, things are better. However, I was surprised today when I was doing some maintenance and saw that the bearings for one of the rear axles had broken (the center portion was at a nasty angle to the rest of the bearing). After just a little prodding with my finger, the bearing completely came apart and the little tiny balls started to spill out.
I've broken the bearings 3 or 4 times. I have a pro 4 and the axle bearing are the smaller ones with using the optional bearing adapters.

My son, who drives a pro 4 as well, seems to break them less, but he runs the normal size axle bearing.

With other cars I run, I don't seem to be much of an issue. With the pro 4 it seems the rears are the ones that get destroyed.
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Old 03-19-2006, 01:10 PM   #14072
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Originally Posted by iblumberg
I've had my Hara Pro4 for about 4 months. I think it is a great car, but I have been breaking things on it more frequently than on my previous cars (TC4 and JRXs).

Now that my driving is improving, things are better. However, I was surprised today when I was doing some maintenance and saw that the bearings for one of the rear axles had broken (the center portion was at a nasty angle to the rest of the bearing). After just a little prodding with my finger, the bearing completely came apart and the little tiny balls started to spill out.

I have side swiped the boards on several occasions with the Pro4 and with my previous cars, but this is the first time I have seen the bearings break.

Has anyone had similar experiences? I'd love to hear that this was just a freak occurrance and will not happen regularly.

Ira
You're lucky you're not driving a Tamiya 415MS.... notoriously weak bearings. It has more to to with the size of the bearings and probably how stiff the suspension is. The bearing break in your car is a freak though. They just tend to seize up or get notchy after a few beatings. Buy a bunch of cheap spares and replace them as often as you rebuild the diff. It's just part of the high performance game.
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Old 03-19-2006, 01:15 PM   #14073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedDesignz
I'll post some detiled pics and how to 's after next week's trophy event .. I want some conrete evidece first with Top notch competiton. To see what the car does.


I"ll post some pics tommorow and see If I can get some moe input. I think with sway bars ( black all around ) The car would be dialed ... Unfotuallly rear sway bar would be a problem with the mounting ball on the rear with the arms flipped..
( I may have to dremel (( insert jrxs sound )) the front of the arm to fit a ball stud)

I'll run a quick set up by all of you to see what we can do to increase "mid" corner speed. Entery is fine , so is exit, seems to unload speed in the middle of the turn slightly,.... think If I can correct this ... it's by by local T2's ....

Heres's a quick run down

FRONT

Pinnk HPI springs (25mm)
top hole -- 3rd hole in ( extreme chassis tower)
Bottom -- 2nd hole OUT
60 Fluid in shocks
6deg carriers
Pins flat (thick silver shim) under blocks
0 Block front ( HPI Graphite option rear hole _ 1 shim )
PARMA Cyan ------Paragon 3/4

REAR

Flour Green springs (25mm)
Top hole 3rd in (extreme chassis tower)
bottom -- mid hole ### ( arm flipped)
40 Fluid
Ball stud -- outside on carrier
Pins flat (thick silver shim) under blocks
2.0 rear block
Camber 1.5 neg
Camber link ( HPI Graphite option outer rear hole _ no shim )
Parma Megenta rear tires


I'm probably forgetting a bunch of crap ....but you carpet guys get the general idea. Any suggestions for the "mid corner" is appriciated
Not enough rear toe
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:48 PM   #14074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedDesignz
I'll post some detiled pics and how to 's after next week's trophy event .. I want some conrete evidece first with Top notch competiton. To see what the car does.


I"ll post some pics tommorow and see If I can get some moe input. I think with sway bars ( black all around ) The car would be dialed ... Unfotuallly rear sway bar would be a problem with the mounting ball on the rear with the arms flipped..
( I may have to dremel (( insert jrxs sound )) the front of the arm to fit a ball stud)

I'll run a quick set up by all of you to see what we can do to increase "mid" corner speed. Entery is fine , so is exit, seems to unload speed in the middle of the turn slightly,.... think If I can correct this ... it's by by local T2's ....

Heres's a quick run down

FRONT

Pinnk HPI springs (25mm)
top hole -- 3rd hole in ( extreme chassis tower)
Bottom -- 2nd hole OUT
60 Fluid in shocks
6deg carriers
Pins flat (thick silver shim) under blocks
0 Block front ( HPI Graphite option rear hole _ 1 shim )
PARMA Cyan ------Paragon 3/4

REAR

Flour Green springs (25mm)
Top hole 3rd in (extreme chassis tower)
bottom -- mid hole ### ( arm flipped)
40 Fluid
Ball stud -- outside on carrier
Pins flat (thick silver shim) under blocks
2.0 rear block
Camber 1.5 neg
Camber link ( HPI Graphite option outer rear hole _ no shim )
Parma Megenta rear tires


I'm probably forgetting a bunch of crap ....but you carpet guys get the general idea. Any suggestions for the "mid corner" is appriciated
Are you running Stock or Mod? Which caster blocks are you using? Droop settings? Ride height? What's the traction level? Ball stud location on rear hub? Does the car scrub-off speed in the front end, rear end or both?
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:51 PM   #14075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR
Not enough rear toe
Too much rear toe, if, anything. I never need more than the 1 degree block.
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:02 PM   #14076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone
or will the hpi heavy duty ball cups fit both the long and short steering links in the car, because they only sell one length dont they?
The Heavy Duty ball cups come in three lengths. Use the the shortest on the steering turnbuckles and the middle size on the rest.
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:04 PM   #14077
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Is the Hara Edition good to get and worth the money or is the normal pro4 good then hop-up over time?
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:06 PM   #14078
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Originally Posted by cars.cars.cars
Is the Hara Edition good to get and worth the money or is the normal pro4 good then hop-up over time?
Get the Hara Edition. It's definitely worth it. You'll just need a diff to complete the package.
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:13 PM   #14079
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ok...and why doesnt it come it a diff??? (You do mean diff as in Differential right?)
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:21 PM   #14080
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Originally Posted by cars.cars.cars
ok...and why doesnt it come it a diff??? (You do mean diff as in Differential right?)
One-ways are used in Asia, not diffs. Many tracks there are "fast" (big sweeping, flowing turns) and are better suited for one-ways or spools.
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:24 PM   #14081
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one-ways and spools are also used in the U.S.
if i'm not mistaken, the hara edition is the u.s. version & the 2005 version is the japan version. or something like that.
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:24 PM   #14082
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ohh...ok...thanks. i would have never found out till i got it, lol. so i can just get the normal diffs for the pro4?

oh...im also lloking at batteries and am wonedring what a good make is. but im ordering everything from tower hobbies cause my dad won't let me order from more than one online place and im in the USA so it is pritty cheep.
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:48 PM   #14083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstyles
one-ways and spools are also used in the U.S.
Yes, they are - along with differentials. Diffs aren't very popular in Asia, though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstyles
if i'm not mistaken, the hara edition is the u.s. version & the 2005 version is the japan version. or something like that.
Slight variations - neither comes with a differential.
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:53 PM   #14084
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so i need both front and rear diffs???
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:56 PM   #14085
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Originally Posted by cars.cars.cars
so i need both front and rear diffs???
We were referring to the front gear box. You'll have a diff for the rear gearbox.
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