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Old 02-20-2006, 09:11 AM   #13966
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Originally Posted by LORD SHADO
i hate your monkey ----kill it please ill be looking at those tire ,ill get back to you. lets do a vote ----kill the monkey or not to kill.
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Old 02-20-2006, 10:28 AM   #13967
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Originally Posted by thegreatimpulse
LOL, MikeR, no, I live about 2000 miles from Socal. Is Socal that small and tight? I have heard about Socal for several years now; You don't happen to have a picture of the track, do you? I'll take a close look Thad's setup.

Like I said, the track is only 40' by 80' (maybe larger this year if we change the layout). I like oneway alright, not like some people absolutely hated it. I just found that the car is on the edge too much, and see, I am not that good of a driver , I am pretty experinced in this hobby (12+ years), but as far as race people in a tight track, I am pretty new. On the track, me and other drivers can't help to "touch" a few times, and I really don't want to spin myself out.

I noticed that you have a 415MS, how's that car compare to Pro 4. It's more like modern belt vs shaft (this topic has been beaten to death ever since TC3 came out). Not which car is comapre, but what's the difference in feeling. I am a bit temping to get a belt driven car, mainly because they seemed to be easier to adjust, especially T2. I have no doubt that I can Pro 4 to run really good, but it's not the easiest car to make some of the adjustments.

Appreciate the input
Again, Floodo1 is spot on w/ his answer. If you are having sporadic handling problems w/ the one way then there is a set up issue meaning you have a tweak somewhere.

As far as cars I spend most of my time on the 415 just trying to keep it spinning free. It handles awesome but when running 19turn the Pro4 seems to put a little more ponies to the track (Pro4 is lighter too). If you try a belt car consider that everyone is still playing catch up to Tamiya, the T2 shocks are pale in comparison to Tamiyas but Xray has unbeatable product support. You might consider also the Cyclone since you already have Cyclone parts in the way of your Pro4.


Here's a pic of Socal. It looks big here but it's not. 10 sec lap times in stock is the norm I think.
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Old 02-20-2006, 06:42 PM   #13968
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It has always being a dream of mine to see Socal, I am so touching.. . LOL, anyway, I am sure that my car wasn't perfectly balanced when I tried oneway. The only thing that holding me back now to use oneway is that I have to let off the throttle sooner at the end of straight.

I'm sure that I will stay with pro 4 for now. I still curious about the belt driven car though. I really don't worry about the power. If my car has nothing else, it's got power . Yeah, HB Cyclone does look pretty sweet. I think the the track here is about 11 to 12 sec on 19t. Well, faster motor really doesn't help much, as it'll only help on the little straight way. The rest is who can corner the fastest, which I hope to be me .

Thanks, guys.
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Old 02-21-2006, 04:56 PM   #13969
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do you guys balance you cars tire with lead tape
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Old 02-21-2006, 05:15 PM   #13970
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Originally Posted by LORD SHADO
do you guys balance you cars tire with lead tape
None of the racers I know do for sedans.... not even sure the factory guys do it anymore either..... maybe for the Worlds though
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Old 02-21-2006, 06:05 PM   #13971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LORD SHADO
why do people bring product boxes to the race track with them?
like 3pk boxes or charger boxes . people bring half of their house to the track ,what up with that.
It also protects the products.

A lot of folks bring their transmitter to the track in the box to keep it from being banged around.

I keep my T-35 in it's box just for protection. I don't keep my M8 in it's box though, I just wrap it in my pit towel and put it in my hauler bag.
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:07 PM   #13972
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aluminum box is the way to go.
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Old 02-22-2006, 12:16 PM   #13973
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Anyone have a shocks, set of 4 they are willing to sell?

PM or email me, Thanks
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Old 02-22-2006, 06:07 PM   #13974
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Hi guys, especially Greg, MikeR and floodo1. This might be a hard question to answer, but if I am changing my setup from front diff to oneway, should I add more tracktion to the back so the car don't get too loose? Maybe softer rear spring or stiffer front spring?

floodo1, when you said "low droop" do you mean running "lower number" like in setup to add more roll? or do you mean lower the among of droop to reduce roll?

thanks
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Old 02-22-2006, 06:14 PM   #13975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LORD SHADO
what are the best tire (rubber tires) for a in door track. and also tire inserts.? asphalt track.
Take off CS 27 works pretty good on outdoor asphalt, so I am not sure about in door. I also tried RP 24, but only for one race, and it was a cold day, like 40 to 50 deg. It was pretty good, but I wouldn't run them in warm weather, because they won't last too long.
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Old 02-22-2006, 09:15 PM   #13976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreatimpulse
Hi guys, especially Greg, MikeR and floodo1. This might be a hard question to answer, but if I am changing my setup from front diff to oneway, should I add more tracktion to the back so the car don't get too loose? Maybe softer rear spring or stiffer front spring?

floodo1, when you said "low droop" do you mean running "lower number" like in setup to add more roll? or do you mean lower the among of droop to reduce roll?

thanks
with a front diff setup you are setting the car up to mechanically create front end bite as well as reduce rear bite. with a one-way setup, especially on a small track, you usually end up trying to reduce front end bite, and prolly increase rear traction as well.

this is because one-way creates tons of front steering on its own, so you need the rear gripping practically as much as possible so it can follow the hardcore front. then once you have max rear traction you will probably still need to reduce front end traction to reduce over steer.

so i feel that the best way to setup one-way is to start with a high bite rear setup, but also one that can transition fast to keep up with the front end. so you would want lighter dampening with more stood up shocks and softer springs, with high inner camber link, with at least .5mm anti-squat and a higher droop number on the kit included droop gauge (which means limited amount of droop).

then from there start tuning on the front end until the car feels balanced. mostly this should mean going with a less darty and less agressive front end. stiff springs, roll bar, dampening, layed down shocks, lower camber link, maybe anti-dive.

but be mindful of the rear end as your getting the balance right, some handling problems may be caused by the rear end setup, so watch out for that and adjust the rear end if you see any problems like that.

specifcally a common problem with too soft of rear end and one-way is that the car will spin or oversteer too much on straight to sharp hairpins. This sort of problem shouldnt be solved by even further decreasing steering, but by tuning rear end to not over roll in a corner like that, usually by increasing sway bar / springs.

usually a one-way car has good on-power steering, so you can often run stiffer rear springs to help with rear roll control, without too much bad effect on f/r weight trasnfer.


basically the key is just to realize that when you get off the gas the car will gain a TON of steering, so dont go letting off unless you're ready to get steering. also throttle control is REALLY important because learning to let off certain amounts to get certain amounts of steering is important. also feathering of the throttle doesnt work well as the car goes through basically shudders front-to-rear wise.
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Old 02-23-2006, 09:54 AM   #13977
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I'll just add that as you run less droop (especially in back) it is super critical you run with even droop Left to Right otherwise you'll have tweak that will kick in off power. You might also want to add an ounce or so of lead to the servo side of the car as well to balance the static weight of the car. Lastly, de-tune your brakes in the transmitter
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Old 02-23-2006, 10:17 AM   #13978
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(de-tune your brakes in the transmitter ) what do you mean?
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Old 02-23-2006, 10:55 AM   #13979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LORD SHADO
(de-tune your brakes in the transmitter ) what do you mean?
On most radios it's called the ATL. Mine is controlled with a dial. You'll want to dial it down untill the brakes are so low that it won't lock the rear tires but will give you a little break for emergencies. Something to add- this adjustment has nothing to do with the nuetral point setting so sometimes you might want the nuetral to be +2% with stock or 19t motors to help dissipate the strong braking effect of these motors if you are turning in too strong.
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Old 02-23-2006, 03:22 PM   #13980
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Thanks floodo1, that's some great info, better than I expected. Also, thanks to MikeR, actually I was wondering about setting up brake also. I'll let you guys know how things go. I can't wait until the first race of the season . Going to meet with the guys from the track tonight. I'll post the my setup once I get it working. Also, thanks to other guys that helped me that I left out to mentioned.
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