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Old 02-14-2006, 10:39 PM   #13921
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its second hand
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Old 02-15-2006, 08:48 AM   #13922
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Does anyone know if I can get the Hara Motor Mount thru Hpi?? and if so, what is the part#.

Thanks!
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Old 02-15-2006, 09:08 AM   #13923
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Yeah,

Here it is: #75170 HEAT SINK MOTOR MOUNT $40

http://hpiracing.com/index2.htm

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Old 02-15-2006, 09:12 AM   #13924
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#75192
but they're out
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Old 02-15-2006, 10:04 AM   #13925
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Stormer Hobbies has the stock one.

HPI75107 at the bottom of the page

Here is the link: http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...e=&man=&page=1

He is out of the Hara edition ones tho.

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Old 02-16-2006, 06:02 AM   #13926
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Default batterys

help help how do you solder your battery packs. or is there a web site on this topic
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Old 02-16-2006, 06:04 AM   #13927
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Default wheel balance

do you guys balance you wheels . i all ways balance my wheels
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Old 02-16-2006, 10:39 AM   #13928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg45231
Stormer Hobbies has the stock one.

HPI75107 at the bottom of the page

Here is the link: http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...e=&man=&page=1

He is out of the Hara edition ones tho.

Greg
Thanks all who checked!
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Old 02-17-2006, 03:22 AM   #13929
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Soldering to Ni-Cds is not a good idea. Try to use the welded tabs and solder to those if at all possible. Soldering to the positive button will have a very high probability of destroying the nylon seal. You just can't get the button hot enough to get a good solder joint without compromising the integrity of the nylon seal ring. This ring is under compression and raising its temperature will allow it to relax and the sealing properties are history.

If you can hold a penny between two fingers long enough to get a good solder joint with #18 stranded wire or braid, then go ahead and solder to your cells, otherwise get cells with solder tabs. Remember, nylon is a good insulator, electrical and thermal. There is no thermal path for the soldering heat to dissipate when heat is applied to the cover button of a cell.

Nylon characteristics:
Nylon has its glass transition at 460°F - 500°F . The maximum use temperature of nylon 6-6 parts is about 300°F. (Note that this is considerably below the glass transition temperature.)

Soldering temperatures are in the 450°F to 650°F range.

I realize this flies in the face of all the electric flight “experts” that assemble their own packs but it is never the less fact.

You have never seen a pack assembled by a cell manufacturer or any other pack manufacturer (outside of the hobby market) where connections are soldered directly to a cell. There is a reason.

http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/
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Old 02-17-2006, 10:54 AM   #13930
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i don't think most people use Ni-Cd's
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Old 02-17-2006, 11:39 AM   #13931
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this includes all type of rechargeble batterys were can i get tips on battrey pack making.
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Old 02-17-2006, 11:59 AM   #13932
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looks like you already did
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Old 02-17-2006, 02:35 PM   #13933
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heres how i make packs, never had any problems:

take cells, put individual shrink wrap on them.
take cells and lightly sand (dremel w/ sanding drum) the end of each cell (both ends) where you plan to solder too, nothing agressive or anything.
now put all ur cells in your jig.
now tin all of your battery bars.
now use a HUGE soldering iron to solder ea bar on. try to be quick.
now glue your pack together.

in the past i didnt sand the ends of cells. the reason i do now is that when i didnt sand the cells i could take pliers and pull the battery bar off, without a ton of force, and usually no solder would be stuck to the cell, it would all be on the battery bar. now that i sand its as if they are welded on, no pulling them off with pliers

also a large iron helps to heat the bar and the surface of the battery to soldering temperature quicker, and SEEEMS like it keeps the cell overall cooler. idk.

as for the soldering itself, if you pretin the bar you should have enuf solder between the bar and the cell, so you just need to add solder around the permiter usually. also you dont need solder on top of the cell, just under it, and along its edges where it contacts the cell.

idk if that helps, but thats how i does it
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Old 02-17-2006, 03:12 PM   #13934
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thanks alot i didnt sand the battery ends.
bars pop of like you said.
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Old 02-17-2006, 11:54 PM   #13935
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Has anyone actually has success with soldering AROUND the bars instead of on the bars? Apparently the solder itself is a poor condustor, so the idea is to get the full face of the bar contacting the cell, with a rim of soldering around the edge to hold it on.

I don't think i've ever been able to do that, unless i've used an obscene amount of solder! I don't want to go blocking the vents either!

Tips?
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