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Old 01-23-2006, 03:29 AM   #13741
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Originally Posted by RC_Goat
HI Guys!

Thanks for answering my question on the pivot blocks!

Just one other question regarding them; apparently the car comes with extra blocks, which are these? I just need the info to find out which blocks I have to order separately

After looking at quite a few cars (Cyclone, Shumi EC, T2) I have decided to go for a PRO 4 Hara edition. I race in stock, outdoors only, on medium grip tarmac surfaces and feel that the Hara Pro 4 will be my best choice. (currently run a BMI TC3)

The only thing that bugs me a bit is the age of the PRO 4. I know the Hara edition is only a few months old but I was wondering if you guys happen to know if HPI have plans for a new model any time soon?

The last thing I want is to spend $500 on a new car and parts only to see a new model pop up in 5 months time

Thanks for your help so far!
HPI and Hotbodies have a very close relationship. For example, Hara no longer drives a Pro4, instead, he drives a Cyclone. Also, the Cyclone shares many parts with the Pro4. Thus, several people have suggested that HPI may not be in a hurry to release a new touring car, but is instead simply using the Cyclone as its latest and greatest. I have not heard or seen any rumors regarding HPI and new touring cars. As it is, I am disappointed that HPI and Hara were kicking butt and then just switched cars.

Oh well, I really like my Pro4, so I'm in no hurry to see a new car.

Ira
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Old 01-23-2006, 06:53 AM   #13742
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Originally Posted by MikeR
I'm using Jet Alum. knuckles in the front and rear of mine. There is a problem though- the knuckles were too tight around the bearings and caused binding . What you'll need to do is get the Square knuckles ($$$) or remove some anodizing from the inside of the Jets (not easy if you're not handy). Mine work great now for the price You might want to look at some bigger/wider foam bumpers too- modified can be brutal
I tried the Square knuckles. I broke those as well. I must really suck. I dont see anyone else having this many problems. I have two Pro 4's and on both of them it is always the front "passenger side" knuckle that breaks.

I have tried the BRP bumper tweak and have a rubberknecker bumper on there. Doesnt seems to help. Someone mentioned another bumper that was bigger. Where do you get that at?
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Old 01-23-2006, 07:01 AM   #13743
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Originally Posted by or8ital
Well it wasnt just walls. I think I ran into you a couple of times! Sorry bout that. Im usually not that bad. I guess the combo of not racing in 3 months and going straight to brushless my first time back got the best of me.
Hey next time come over and see me. I would like to meet you. I will be running Weds night and Saturday. I am going to run the Pro 4 in mod and T2 in 4300.

Stick with the brushless. If it is to fast still. Turn your throttle EPA down to keep it from hitting top speed. Just a suggestion.
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Old 01-23-2006, 07:25 AM   #13744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
HPI and Hotbodies have a very close relationship. For example, Hara no longer drives a Pro4, instead, he drives a Cyclone. Also, the Cyclone shares many parts with the Pro4. Thus, several people have suggested that HPI may not be in a hurry to release a new touring car, but is instead simply using the Cyclone as its latest and greatest. I have not heard or seen any rumors regarding HPI and new touring cars. As it is, I am disappointed that HPI and Hara were kicking butt and then just switched cars.

Oh well, I really like my Pro4, so I'm in no hurry to see a new car.

Ira
Thanks iblumberg!
I agree, Hara kicked butt with the PRO4 Well, I'm forsure going to get one

You don't perhaps know which pivot-blocks come with the Hara edition, degree wise?
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Old 01-23-2006, 09:20 AM   #13745
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Originally Posted by RC_Goat
You don't perhaps know which pivot-blocks come with the Hara edition, degree wise?
Take a look at the manual, it should tell all.

http://www.hpieurope.com/manuals/pdf/187.pdf

Ira
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Old 01-23-2006, 11:49 AM   #13746
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I have the same problem with the right front knuckles (spindles) it does not seem to take much to break them. Im not the best driver but I dont hit many boards eather. Maybe that is the problem, I am to fast and they break with the force that is put on them form my SPEED! I guess I need to figure out how to go slower in the turns.
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Old 01-23-2006, 12:21 PM   #13747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
Take a look at the manual, it should tell all.

http://www.hpieurope.com/manuals/pdf/187.pdf

Ira
Awesome, thanks bro!
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Old 01-23-2006, 01:51 PM   #13748
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Default Help with kickup and anti squat please

I run a small fast oval and for the most part the car is setup well. In the corners I get really loose and I know it has to do with kickup and anti squat. Right now I am running my car the same height front and rear on both the front and rear diff houses. what can I do to tighten the car up in the turns.

Someone please explain kickup/anti drive and rear anti squat better then then manual for me

Thanks for the help guys
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Old 01-23-2006, 03:19 PM   #13749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tandman
I thought that I would post my BMI Pro4 carpet setup for stock as it works really well.
Front suspension;
60wt. asc. oil, 2 hole piston, 30lb spring. 3rd hole in on tower, outer hole on arm. 0 degree front lower arm mount with one purple height spacer. One purple spacer under the f/r mount. 4 degree caster blocks, -1.5 camber.
Diff is tight. Black sway bar. 1.5mm spacer on the axle. Up travel 1.5mm.
2mm shim under the inner camber link.
Rear suspension;
40wt. asc oil, 2 hole pistons, 28 lb spring, outer hole on tower, middle hole on the arm. 2.5 toe in block with a purple spacer under the mounting blocks front and rear. No sway bar, 1.5mm axle spacer. Up travel 1mm. 1mm shim under the inner camber link.
This setup is very aggresive in the turns and you have to drive it hard to be fast. I only play with the up travel to dial it in when the traction comes up.
can you please explain to me where this spacer is on the axle? i know i can put spacers on camber links ( inner & c-hub),but i don't know where you are talking about on the axle?also is the uptravel the same as droop i did not know this car had uptravel if not what is your doop setting and where do you measure droop because people measure droop at diff. places?
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Old 01-23-2006, 05:46 PM   #13750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosfan
can you please explain to me where this spacer is on the axle? i know i can put spacers on camber links ( inner & c-hub),but i don't know where you are talking about on the axle?also is the uptravel the same as droop i did not know this car had uptravel if not what is your doop setting and where do you measure droop because people measure droop at diff. places?
the axle "spacer" is the thin washer that comes with the kit, to be placed between the wheel hex and the wheel itself. ALL pro setups ive ever seen have at LEAST the 1mm shim, usually 1.5 (1mm and .5mm shims). problem is a lot of wheels wont grip the hex with 1.5mm shim i always run 1mm shim.

the most accurate way to measure droop is with the wheels off, and the included gauge (the ride-height/droop plastic guage that comes with the kit). the quicker way is to measure the ride height needed to lift the tires off the ground, but this isnt very accurate due to tire deflection
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Old 01-23-2006, 08:56 PM   #13751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floodo1
the axle "spacer" is the thin washer that comes with the kit, to be placed between the wheel hex and the wheel itself. ALL pro setups ive ever seen have at LEAST the 1mm shim, usually 1.5 (1mm and .5mm shims). problem is a lot of wheels wont grip the hex with 1.5mm shim i always run 1mm shim.

the most accurate way to measure droop is with the wheels off, and the included gauge (the ride-height/droop plastic guage that comes with the kit). the quicker way is to measure the ride height needed to lift the tires off the ground, but this isnt very accurate due to tire deflection
thanks floodo1 that was what i needed on the wheel axle,but the droop is concerning me now, i measure the droop with the guages & i measure from the bottom of the arm but on xray,s they tell you to measure the front by under the screw of the c hub. so this is what i mean by measuring the droop
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Old 01-23-2006, 09:26 PM   #13752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floodo1
the axle "spacer" is the thin washer that comes with the kit, to be placed between the wheel hex and the wheel itself. ALL pro setups ive ever seen have at LEAST the 1mm shim, usually 1.5 (1mm and .5mm shims). problem is a lot of wheels wont grip the hex with 1.5mm shim i always run 1mm shim.

the most accurate way to measure droop is with the wheels off, and the included gauge (the ride-height/droop plastic guage that comes with the kit). the quicker way is to measure the ride height needed to lift the tires off the ground, but this isnt very accurate due to tire deflection
I got so fed up with wheels not seating correctly with the spacers as well as always having to take off 2 spacers and avoid losing them when working on the car that I just went out and got a set of normal width clamping hexes. Now, no more spacers and all my wheels seat perfectly.

Ira
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Old 01-23-2006, 09:32 PM   #13753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHardy
I run a small fast oval and for the most part the car is setup well. In the corners I get really loose and I know it has to do with kickup and anti squat. Right now I am running my car the same height front and rear on both the front and rear diff houses. what can I do to tighten the car up in the turns.

Someone please explain kickup/anti drive and rear anti squat better then then manual for me

Thanks for the help guys
This has to do with the amount of weight allowed to transfer from front to back and vice versa. Kick-up/Anti-dive, up front, reduces the amount of weight being transferred from the rear, off-power. Anti-squat is the amount of weight allowed to transfer to the rear, on-power. Use kick-up to keep too much weight from transferring to the front and reducing rear traction, when off-power. Use anti-squat to keep too much traction from going to the rear, to maintain front traction when accelerating.
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Old 01-23-2006, 09:39 PM   #13754
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how do i get a realy free drive train [ spacing] ? oil ? i want this thing to run forever i run a one way and without wheels i get about 3 sec if i spin it please help in detail thanks
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Old 01-23-2006, 09:56 PM   #13755
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Hey, I've got some pics of my Pro2 that is being retrofitted with Pro4 suspension, which I wanted to post and get suggestions. The pics are too big. Is there someone I can email them to to get them resized? Thanks.
-Josh
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