86LikesHpi Pro 4
12-16-2005, 11:19 AM
Originally Posted by kyracer
what is the purpose of running different droop on left and right rear?? 
12-16-2005, 11:19 AM
Originally Posted by no1uno
Try 6 on the right and 5 on the left
12-16-2005, 11:33 AM
Tech Regular
Oh I see. Lucky my car has no torque steer.
Last edited by kyracer; 12-16-2005 at 12:08 PM.
12-16-2005, 01:35 PM
Tech Initiate
Ok then, I shall try that. Cheers guys.
Paul
Paul
12-16-2005, 02:42 PM
Any thoughts on the diff problem I mentioned above?
12-16-2005, 05:08 PM
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Scottmisfits
Anyone have any tips for building the diffs? More specifically the screw to hold them together. The 2/56 x 1" has snapped on me. One HPI one and two Associated ones. All of those in the rear and now one HPI one in the front. It's just starting to get me really annoyed.
The obvious solution is to not hit things but that's just not going to happen anytime soon. The worst thng is that the front one broke in the middle of the straight. It obviously had bee weakened before but that's gotta be a hard place to break.
The obvious solution is to not hit things but that's just not going to happen anytime soon. The worst thng is that the front one broke in the middle of the straight. It obviously had bee weakened before but that's gotta be a hard place to break.
Ira
12-16-2005, 09:32 PM
Here is my set up.
Front
Shocks 3 piston Losi 45wt oil
AE yellow springs
Shocks mounted outer on arm. (Inboard will make the car turn in quick)
Upper 3rd hole out
Camber link outer hole with .75 shim
6 Degree caster blocks
1.0 for front arm mount
1mm roll center shims all around
rear most hole on knuckle
steering ackerman is stock
BSR Double Pink/ Orange
Rear
Shocke 2 piston AE 35wt oil
AE copper spring
Upper mount 3rd hole out
Middle hole bottom
Hub spacing stock
ball stud in inner hole on hub
inboard link set to inner hole 2mm spacer
2 degree toe
BSR Double pink/ purple
Thin purple hex hubs with thin and thick spacers
Front
Shocks 3 piston Losi 45wt oil
AE yellow springs
Shocks mounted outer on arm. (Inboard will make the car turn in quick)
Upper 3rd hole out
Camber link outer hole with .75 shim
6 Degree caster blocks
1.0 for front arm mount
1mm roll center shims all around
rear most hole on knuckle
steering ackerman is stock
BSR Double Pink/ Orange
Rear
Shocke 2 piston AE 35wt oil
AE copper spring
Upper mount 3rd hole out
Middle hole bottom
Hub spacing stock
ball stud in inner hole on hub
inboard link set to inner hole 2mm spacer
2 degree toe
BSR Double pink/ purple
Thin purple hex hubs with thin and thick spacers
12-17-2005, 12:34 AM
Tech Regular
Thanks Dodge!
12-17-2005, 01:03 AM
I'm running a stock motor with foams. It's a fairly small tight track. I'm running the stock delrin outdrives. Stock CVD's.
12-17-2005, 02:58 AM
Tech Adept
Really weak dog bones
I've taken my Hara Edition to the track exactly once. It was an indoor carpet track. I ran a stock motor. I did crash a few times into various PVC walls, but never really hard and no parts broke.
Well, when cleaning up the car tonight I noticed that both front dog bones were bent. I am shocked. I have crashed much harder with a TC4 (composite dog bones) and a Losi JRXS and never bent or broke a dog bone. Actually, I did break one of the TC4 composite dog bones, but I broke it in a huge crash that also broke the hub carrier and suspension arm and bent both screws holding the hub carrier to the "C" bracket. The lesson I took from that incident was crash hard enough and you can break anything.
I am quite disappointed in the HPI dog bones. They appear to be far too fragile. As noted a few pages ago, I won't be going back for more of these parts. I will instead first try the TC4 composite dog bones because I happen to have them in the house. If those don't last, I will go to the TC4 alu bones.
Ira
Well, when cleaning up the car tonight I noticed that both front dog bones were bent. I am shocked. I have crashed much harder with a TC4 (composite dog bones) and a Losi JRXS and never bent or broke a dog bone. Actually, I did break one of the TC4 composite dog bones, but I broke it in a huge crash that also broke the hub carrier and suspension arm and bent both screws holding the hub carrier to the "C" bracket. The lesson I took from that incident was crash hard enough and you can break anything.
I am quite disappointed in the HPI dog bones. They appear to be far too fragile. As noted a few pages ago, I won't be going back for more of these parts. I will instead first try the TC4 composite dog bones because I happen to have them in the house. If those don't last, I will go to the TC4 alu bones.
Ira
12-17-2005, 03:00 AM
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Scottmisfits
I'm running a stock motor with foams. It's a fairly small tight track. I'm running the stock delrin outdrives. Stock CVD's.
Hopefully someone else will have some ideas.
Ira
12-17-2005, 06:05 AM
I was running a FT TC4 and I did have a front diff screw break. I did not hit anything. Though could have been weak from other crashes.
I think the one that comes in the Hara kit is stronger. I could be wrong though.
I think the one that comes in the Hara kit is stronger. I could be wrong though.
12-17-2005, 07:29 AM
Don't use Composite CVD's in the front 1 or 2 crashes later they will break. Their fine in the rear just check before each run. As far as diff screw breaking, and I quote Barry Baker told me that, "HARA had the same problem so he always ran a aluminum or steel outdrive since it has a better tolerence the diff screw did not break." As far as how true that statement is I don't know but it does make some sense.
12-17-2005, 09:37 AM
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by TadehI
Don't use Composite CVD's in the front 1 or 2 crashes later they will break. Their fine in the rear just check before each run. As far as diff screw breaking, and I quote Barry Baker told me that, "HARA had the same problem so he always ran a aluminum or steel outdrive since it has a better tolerence the diff screw did not break." As far as how true that statement is I don't know but it does make some sense.
12-17-2005, 10:09 AM
Tech Addict
i use the composite bones with no problems.
but tell me the truth guys....has this car simply dropped off the rc map? i don't see it ANYWHERE! not even at top races. i can count the number of online carpet set-ups on one hand and still have fingers left over! seems to be only two or three big names that USED to have luck with this car and NONE off them were AMERICANS! was this car just a facade so HPI can bank up the $$$$ to push HOT BODIES into the mainstream?
their touring car aint been out a good year yet and already it's more popular than the pro4. i'm sure not long after the new year there'll be twice as many carpet setups. a top competitor here in my state ran a pro4 for ages. he was good and all but he just couldn't keep up until he sold the pro4 and got something else. since then he's be in the top three in numorous more a-finals. even won a few mains! (something he seldom did with the "4"). thoughts....
should i go ahead and dump this chassis or go with the mods i made?(will discuss in a later post). took a long time to get nat's caliber equipment. and every chassis i have is up to the challenge (cept driver
) but the pro is looking a little "un-loved".
rebuttles welcomed.
but tell me the truth guys....has this car simply dropped off the rc map? i don't see it ANYWHERE! not even at top races. i can count the number of online carpet set-ups on one hand and still have fingers left over! seems to be only two or three big names that USED to have luck with this car and NONE off them were AMERICANS! was this car just a facade so HPI can bank up the $$$$ to push HOT BODIES into the mainstream?
their touring car aint been out a good year yet and already it's more popular than the pro4. i'm sure not long after the new year there'll be twice as many carpet setups. a top competitor here in my state ran a pro4 for ages. he was good and all but he just couldn't keep up until he sold the pro4 and got something else. since then he's be in the top three in numorous more a-finals. even won a few mains! (something he seldom did with the "4"). thoughts....
should i go ahead and dump this chassis or go with the mods i made?(will discuss in a later post). took a long time to get nat's caliber equipment. and every chassis i have is up to the challenge (cept driver
) but the pro is looking a little "un-loved". rebuttles welcomed.