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Old 11-06-2005, 09:22 PM   #13321
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josh have u tried haras nats setup from last year on your track you run on? i run a variation of it on a low to med traction track and its good......what kind of bite do u have at your track
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Old 11-07-2005, 03:49 AM   #13322
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Just wondering if any of you guys who have had both the pro4 and pro4 Hara edition notcie much on-track difference between the two?

Im currently in two minds whether to buy the new Cyclone or the pro4 Hara to replace my pro4. What puts me off the Cyclone is that ive never had a belt car before, and would have to buy extra stuff like solid/one way layshafts/pullys (which I know absolutely nothing about), and a diff and stuff like that. Whereas with the pro4 i have everything I need.
What puts me off with another pro4 is that a Cyclone would have more development under its belt, and everyone seems to use one now.

Your thoughts please!

Matt
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Old 11-07-2005, 04:36 AM   #13323
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I don't have a Cyclone ATM but from the drivers I know (like Andy Moore and other fast UK drivers), I'm told that the Cyclone has more on-power steering than the Pro 4. That is its main benefit and the first thing that's mentioned when comparing them.

You probably know this, but many of the Pro 4 spares will work on the Cyclone, too. So it's not like you have to sell off all your plastic spares.
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:20 AM   #13324
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Thanks for your input Frank.

Ive also heard from someone that generally belt driven cars need a little maintenance, true? tbh im not really bothered about that

Also, if I want to drive the pro4 with a spool...I put a spool in. If I want to drive with a diff...I put a diff in. But with belt driven cars the pulleys and layshafts have to be changed, right? So if i use a center solid pulley/layshaft with a spool, and a one way pulley/layshaft with a one way, what do I use with a diff?? Are whole diffs available yet?

Sorry for all the questions, but I need to choose a car soon!

Matt
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:27 AM   #13325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh69162
NORMAL PLASTIC? How much easier are these to break? And do they wear out quite a bit quicker? P/N?
-Josh
the High Traction arms are more durable than the stock graphite arms... I've broken 2 front arms...and yet to break any HT arms. the HT arms are plastic and absorb some of the shock as it flexes...
as of now...only available overseas and cost about $10.00 + for a full set of 4 arms. You can order them from Rainbowten in Japan, RcModel or Precision Rc both in HK.
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:53 AM   #13326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
the High Traction arms are more durable than the stock graphite arms... I've broken 2 front arms...and yet to break any HT arms. the HT arms are plastic and absorb some of the shock as it flexes...
as of now...only available overseas and cost about $10.00 + for a full set of 4 arms. You can order them from Rainbowten in Japan, RcModel or Precision Rc both in HK.
I found that the stock graphite arms are a little brittle, and I've had a few now with a hairline crack down them (very difficult to see, but not worth risking running it). I have broken 1 HT arm, in a fairly heavy crash, but the main thing I find with the HT arms is that you can strip the threads where the shock mounts quite easily.

For belt cars you don't need to use a one-way pulley with a one-way diff, you could actually make a one-way pulley for shaft driven cars too. With a diff or spool you'd normally use the solid layshaft to give you the braking.
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Old 11-07-2005, 11:32 AM   #13327
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I take it if I were to get a cyclone it would be best just to start with a solid pulley in the centre so that it is similar to a shaft driven car?

Sorry for the cyclone talk in the pro4 thread!

Matt
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Old 11-07-2005, 11:49 AM   #13328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Pocknell
I take it if I were to get a cyclone it would be best just to start with a solid pulley in the centre so that it is similar to a shaft driven car?

Sorry for the cyclone talk in the pro4 thread!

Matt
yes...
the direct drive shaft is included with the cyclone...all you need to buy is the locked center pulley.
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:28 PM   #13329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayrodracer
josh have u tried haras nats setup from last year on your track you run on? i run a variation of it on a low to med traction track and its good......what kind of bite do u have at your track
It all really depends on what part of the track I'm on. Right now they are adding a secondary race directors booth, and another "viewing area," so there is quite a bit of construction dust meandering around on that side. That side is also shaded. But on the other side, more sun can find it's way to the track, and there is less dust. I've got relatively good traction for one half of the track, and poor traction the other half. Right now the tire of choice is either Sorex 24s with a medium B insert for the first qualifier or two, and then 28's when it really starts to heat up. I'd say overall we have medium traction. I might have to check that setup, and the HT arms out. Does anyone have a spare set? I'm really not too keen on ordering from overseas. And I KNOW my parents don't want to just handout their credit card number, and a MO might take a few millenia to get there. PM me.
-Josh

Jayrodracer- I'm looking for a oneway setup, not a spool set up.

Last edited by josh69162; 11-07-2005 at 07:33 PM. Reason: additional comment to jayrodracer
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:51 PM   #13330
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Hey,

I've been running my Pro 4 on carpet for about 2 months now and I'm really getting it dialed in now. I have a question about ride height and tweak. I set my ride height to 4.5 mm. The side by the battery is always like .5 mm lower. So I'll raise it up so all around the car is at 4.5 mm. Then I go to set the tweak and the tweak is off because I had to raise the battery side up. Then when I set the tweak back to normal the ride hieght goes off again. Should I adjust the tweak somewhere else on the car? What are my solutions?

Thanks
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:31 AM   #13331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fantom11
Hey,

I've been running my Pro 4 on carpet for about 2 months now and I'm really getting it dialed in now. I have a question about ride height and tweak. I set my ride height to 4.5 mm. The side by the battery is always like .5 mm lower. So I'll raise it up so all around the car is at 4.5 mm. Then I go to set the tweak and the tweak is off because I had to raise the battery side up. Then when I set the tweak back to normal the ride hieght goes off again. Should I adjust the tweak somewhere else on the car? What are my solutions?

Thanks
If your tweak is unmanageable you might have to add weight to the motor side and lighten up the battery side somehow You can only cheat gravity so much.
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:38 AM   #13332
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the battery side will tend to sit lower than the other...
there is no perfect fix. I've added 2oz of extra weight on the electronic side and it's still not perfect...even on the new cyclone...some extra weight is added on the motor side.
don't worry about the ride height so much...as long as you have perfect balance on all 4 tires on the tweak station..you'll do fine...
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:39 AM   #13333
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Do you guys know if the new HPI shock is shorter than the original Pro4 shocks? http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/pr...oduct_id=11717

The old Pro4 shocks are big clunkers compared to my TRF415MS shocks.
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:51 AM   #13334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
the battery side will tend to sit lower than the other...
there is no perfect fix. I've added 2oz of extra weight on the electronic side and it's still not perfect...even on the new cyclone...some extra weight is added on the motor side.
don't worry about the ride height so much...as long as you have perfect balance on all 4 tires on the tweak station..you'll do fine...
I agree- tweak is more important and there is no easy fix. The true fix would be a 4x2 battery configuration. The problem is that it's a royal pain in the ass for battery mangament and swaps. Used this layout in my Baracuda to make the A main at Reedy (2004) but went right back to conventional straight six for the rest of the year.
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Old 11-08-2005, 12:01 PM   #13335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR
Do you guys know if the new HPI shock is shorter than the original Pro4 shocks? http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/pr...oduct_id=11717

The old Pro4 shocks are big clunkers compared to my TRF415MS shocks.
yes it is..about 5mm shorter...
very smooth.
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