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Old 11-05-2005, 10:39 AM   #13306
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and the threaded nut type things that the body pins go through.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGNZ7&P=PU

I just hate ordering across the border. I'm in Canada and I seem to get nailed with customs pretty hard whenever I get stuff. I didn't get window masks with a body that I got so I called up the company and they sent thme up for me. It cost about $27 Can. when customs were done with me. It's a $3 sheet!! And it did have Warranty part/ No Value written on the side of the box and the shipping form.
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Old 11-05-2005, 11:40 AM   #13307
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you should ask those guys to put the value lower than it is i am sure they dont have problem with it i always do it and i never pay customs if its from overseas or the states sometimes they even do it on there own cause they know what a bunch of loosers those people at the border are they nail you for everything unreal.
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Old 11-05-2005, 10:31 PM   #13308
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Default makin low traction arms???

has anyone tried cutting the insides out of the arms to make them flex more to get more bite? i think that it would work sweet cause those arms are so damn stiff and on a asphalt track with med to low traction it would be dialed. not for carpet of course..........any ideas??????
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Old 11-05-2005, 10:33 PM   #13309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdougie
Ive been running without the front spacer blocks on my pro4 for about a year now on low/med bite sealed asphlalt tracks with great results. Its a trick i learned from the schumacher guys and really helped out turn in......it can be done!!!
dougie what up dude.........what spacer blocks are u refering to? do u race in florida?
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Old 11-05-2005, 10:33 PM   #13310
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I'm sure a great tire/inset combo would be ideal, but if you're struggling to get rear traction, it would probably be a cool experiment. I just might have to whip out the Dremel...
-Josh
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:34 AM   #13311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayrodracer
dougie what up dude.........what spacer blocks are u refering to? do u race in florida?
Both front spacers between the chassis and pivot block. Yes, I race in FL.
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:43 AM   #13312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayrodracer
has anyone tried cutting the insides out of the arms to make them flex more to get more bite? i think that it would work sweet cause those arms are so damn stiff and on a asphalt track with med to low traction it would be dialed. not for carpet of course..........any ideas??????
The "high traction arms" that HPI make are really flexible compared to the standard graphite ones, as they're made of normal plastic.
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Old 11-06-2005, 09:13 AM   #13313
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From everyones experience, what is the motor limit for using the HPI carbon drive shaft? Just got a GTB brushless...
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Old 11-06-2005, 10:33 AM   #13314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ooj
From everyones experience, what is the motor limit for using the HPI carbon drive shaft? Just got a GTB brushless...
I believe you can use the HPI graphite shaft up to 12T limit. But if you want to get a better Graphite shaft for your pro4, check out this link:

Carbon Fiber Shafts for Touring cars
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Old 11-06-2005, 12:13 PM   #13315
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dougie what track do u race at? coral springs? or speedline?
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Old 11-06-2005, 12:22 PM   #13316
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does anyone know where to order the high traction arms in the states? i think that might be the trick, has hara ran those?
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:08 PM   #13317
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Could someone tell me what thickness bottom deck comes with the pro4 Hara edition?

Matt
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:31 PM   #13318
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2.5mm
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:58 PM   #13319
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thanks. better think about getting a 2mm chassis too then
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Old 11-06-2005, 08:24 PM   #13320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skill
The "high traction arms" that HPI make are really flexible compared to the standard graphite ones, as they're made of normal plastic.
NORMAL PLASTIC? How much easier are these to break? And do they wear out quite a bit quicker? P/N?
-Josh
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