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Old 09-19-2005, 03:26 PM   #12886
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Default Pit Shimizu Co.

Here's the Pit Shimizu English Website, if you haven't already found it...

http://www.pit-shimizu.com/index_pag...h/index_e.html

Sheldon's...

http://www.sheldonshobbies.com/listing/pit.html

- CPatrick
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Old 09-19-2005, 03:46 PM   #12887
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Default ...and another thing...

Hey,

I just wanted to chime in and thank those of you who post here regularly! I'm assembling a BMI chassied Pro4 for use on a new carpet track, and with the tips and setups that I've gleaned from this forum, I'm confident that I'll have no trouble competing with the XRAY TK'05's , Tamiya 415's, and Losi JRX-S's. There's a thread on a forum hosted by a new RC raceway in my area. It asks, "which car do you plan to race?" Not one person has mentioned the Pro4. I can't wait to set this car down on that new track and see what it can do.

Thanks again!

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Old 09-19-2005, 05:11 PM   #12888
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Roger that just aint right..
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Old 09-19-2005, 08:25 PM   #12889
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CPatrick.......

Glad your joining us. You'll be more than happy with your decision to go with the Pro4. I've owned many of the "high-end" RC cars over the years, and I'm quite impressed with the driveability and durability of this fine car. If there's any questions you have please feel free to ask away as I'm sure this great group of racers will help you in any way they can!!

John
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Old 09-19-2005, 08:47 PM   #12890
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CPatrick, after you finish assembling your Pro4, your should be able to get 10 or more seconds of freespin. If you don't have atleast 10 seconds after taking both rear wheels and flicking them forward, then your drivetrain is not shimmed correctly.
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Old 09-19-2005, 09:56 PM   #12891
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Hey dudes, anyone tried larger cells in their pro 4 yet ? ie GP3700's. Sat a pack in mine the other day and seems a fair bit of filing is required.Was thinking alaong the lines of the Yokomo BD tray. Any suggestions ?
Cheers from Downunder
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Old 09-19-2005, 09:58 PM   #12892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadCapece
I was thinking about that the other day. What I might do is cut out rectangle slots where the current slots are. Then buy a Yokomo battery tray and glue it in.
You and me both Jim
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:08 PM   #12893
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I filed my chassis slots only slightly though evenly and GP3700's fit just fine (i hold them w/ strapping tape though.) Not quite as good a fit as 3300's but it works.

If you're using tape make sure you file the slot for the actual tape hole so the tape won't be cut by it.
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Old 09-20-2005, 05:33 AM   #12894
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Hello racers. I just picked up a second PRO4 used. On my current car I use the included battery hold down bar. However on my second car, that I got second hand, those parts are long gone. Do any of you guy who tape your batteries in still have those parts? If you would be willing to part with them, please PM. Thanks, Snowy.
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Old 09-20-2005, 05:05 PM   #12895
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Default 10 seconds, insane!

Chad,

You had to know that this was coming...

10 second freespin? That's crazy talk! I'm averaging about 3 to 4 seconds. I purchased this rolling chassis used, but it's beautiful. There are front and rear ball diffs, but I haven't opened them up to see what shape they're in. I was giving my rear wheels a good "price-is-right" spin, and there's no way I'm going to reach a 10 sec. freespin in this current state.

This setup must eat bevel gears, because the person who sold me the chassis provided 15 new bevel gear kits (73501).

The November issue of RC Driver (pg. 190) shows a new Pro 4 titanium spool, made by Titanium Racing, Ltd. I was thinking of trying one.
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Old 09-20-2005, 05:10 PM   #12896
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CPatrick

I don't recommend the TIR Ti spool. it has replacable delrin outdrives that break. you'll end up spending more than you have too... HPI's spool works the best... there is a new out by Shooter that looks nice with replacable outdirves..and I'll probably get one... available from Precision RC in HK. http://www.precisionrc.com/

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Old 09-20-2005, 05:51 PM   #12897
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I have gone through several bevel gears as well. Atleast they're cheap!!!!

Hey, anyone out there use different front dogbones than the purple kit ones? I have bent the aluminum ones several times and want to try perhaps some stainless ones. What brands, part #'s and where do you get them?
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Old 09-20-2005, 05:56 PM   #12898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPatrick
Chad,

You had to know that this was coming...

10 second freespin? That's crazy talk! I'm averaging about 3 to 4 seconds. I purchased this rolling chassis used, but it's beautiful. There are front and rear ball diffs, but I haven't opened them up to see what shape they're in. I was giving my rear wheels a good "price-is-right" spin, and there's no way I'm going to reach a 10 sec. freespin in this current state.

This setup must eat bevel gears, because the person who sold me the chassis provided 15 new bevel gear kits (73501).

The November issue of RC Driver (pg. 190) shows a new Pro 4 titanium spool, made by Titanium Racing, Ltd. I was thinking of trying one.

hehe, I know of belt drives with more spin than that With dual diffs, I can get around 20 seconds on a good flick of the wrist. Here's what will help you: Take your charger and put a stock motor in the car and run it. Write down the amp draw. Then remove the motorbulkhead with the motor still screwed in (very important)

1. Do not use the center bearing that fits into the motor bulkhead.

2. Do not use grease on the gears (it will make the car a little louder, but when I tried the white grease, it decreased freespin a little)

3. Soak all the bearings in motor spray, put them in a cup with the spray and place them on something that vibrates, like a fishtank or washing macine.

4. Remove them and use bearing oil like this: rcprofessor.com Put a drop on one side, then another on the other side.

5. Put all the bearings back in the car. Make sure they fit in perfectly.

6. Shim the gears out so that there is a "tick" of play between gears.

7. Now put the bulkhead back in and reassemble the center shaft without the bearing.

8. Run the motor off your charger. Did the amp draw go down? If so, then your tranny is more free and you should get more freespin. If you don't have a charger that can do this, then just hook up a 4cell pack and run it through the motor until it runs out of juice.

9. Put the tires back on and check out the spin. I should have increased!!!!!

This is what I've done with my Yokomo's and HPI's. Others have different ways, this is just how I do it.

Arun uses grease on the gears, and he has more spin than me. So if you still don't have the spin you want, try out grease, it's working for him.
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Old 09-20-2005, 06:06 PM   #12899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordheim
I have gone through several bevel gears as well. Atleast they're cheap!!!!

Hey, anyone out there use different front dogbones than the purple kit ones? I have bent the aluminum ones several times and want to try perhaps some stainless ones. What brands, part #'s and where do you get them?
The TC3 steel shiny bones is a direct fit... I like the new TC4 HD aluminum bones better.. unfortunately it's blue.
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Old 09-20-2005, 06:10 PM   #12900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
TC4 HD aluminum bones better.. unfortunately it's blue.
I feel your pain bro. I'm hurting with a blue antenna straw, I can't imagine what blue cvd's would do to my Pro4. She might just dive into a wall and snap both bones to make me get those shiny cvds.
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