Hpi Pro 4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by josh69162
Oh, no. That would be if you didn't have a Pro4 at all. It would probably be like 100-120ish to upgrade from a standard Pro4 to a Hara edition.
-Josh
-Josh
What is the # of the pistons that can be used in the new shocks???
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Oh, must have skipped that part. I'm rebuilding my shocks, and one rebounds all the way, and one doesn't. The one that doesn't is much less smooth. They both bled, and I oiled the rebound foam. Did I not oil the shock o-rings as much on one? The one that does rebound rebounds super fast, and goes all the way back down. I'm using 40wt Trinity oil. Thanks
-Josh
-Josh
Tech Master
josh69162 - I believe that is from increased pressure in the shock that rebounds more. Pressure = oil volume. You must not have bled that shock as much as the other.
Snowy.
Snowy.
Tech Master
Yep, I would agree. There's too much oil in the one that doesn't rebound well.
So just keep bleeding them until they rebound more? There's no way it's that easy...
-Josh
-Josh
Tech Master
Originally Posted by josh69162
So just keep bleeding them until they rebound more? There's no way it's that easy...
-Josh
-Josh
Problem solved. I just added a few drops more oil, and then rebled them from the start. Now they all rebound at the same rate. Thanks guys. Now if I can just stop hitting those boards...
-Josh
-Josh
Tech Master
Yeah, those boards are another story. Pesky things always seem to get in the way. Maybe we need wider lanes??!!
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
hey
if u guy know somone that has a pro4 for sale for around 150 lmk,
thanks
scott
if u guy know somone that has a pro4 for sale for around 150 lmk,
thanks
scott
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by scotty5555
hey
if u guy know somone that has a pro4 for sale for around 150 lmk,
thanks
scott
if u guy know somone that has a pro4 for sale for around 150 lmk,
thanks
scott
Here's my winning setup on medium-high traction bumpy asphalt:
Carolina RC
Qualifier 1 Qual 2 Qual 3 Main
Laps/Time DNF TQ 2nd Q 1st A-Main
Fast Lap (sec) 16.46 16.51 16.46 16.08
Track Temp. (F) 120 125 130 130
Diam. RF (")
Diam. LF (")
Diam. RR (")
Diam. LR (")
Tire/Rim F RP 30's RP 30s CS 27's 10runs CS 27's Stickers
Tire/Rim R " " " "
Motor binary stk Monster stk Monster stk binary stk
Timing, Comm. D.
Brush/Spring (+) green red red green
Brush/Spring (-) green green green green
Gear (p-s) 98-34 98-36 98-36 98-34
Rollout (")
Battery gp 3300's 1.18 IB 3600 rc professor IB36 gp 3300 1.18
Charger/Amp/Peak 5.0-40mV " " "
Tract. Cmp. F/R none " " "
Ride Height F (mm) 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5
Ride Height R (mm) 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5
Up travel F (mm) " " "
Up travel R (mm) " " "
Droop Front 3mm 3mm 3mm 3mm
Droop Rear 3mm " " "
Front Spring " " "
Rear Spring " " "
Oil, Piston Front " " '
Oil, Piston Rear " " "
Block Car. 4 degrees " " "
Roll Center F (O,Δ) (tabs)
Roll Center R (□,X)(tabs)
Roll Bar F none none stk bar stk bar
Roll Bar R none none stk bar stk bar
Toe Fr., R (°) 0,3 0,2 0,3
A-dive/K-up,A-/Pro-Squat
Wheelbase F (O,Δ), R (□,X) stk
Camber F (R/L) 0.5
Camber R (R/L) 0.5
Bump steer, Ack., Knuck. stk
Shock F Mount (T, A)
Shock R Mount (T,A)
Camber F Mount
Camber R Mount (hub)
F/R Drive, Batt. Pl. spool/diff
ESC/Receiver/Servo QC1, RS300, 94757
ESC Settings Modified punch control
Body/Wing Mazda6, ROAR legal wing
Dual Rate 91% 93% 99% 99%
Car Pro4 pro4 pro4 pro4
Weight (g) 1500 1516 1516 1516
Comments VERY FAST stable, but tight loose perfect
Tweak (F/R Solid)
Discharge (mAh)
Weight (oz)
Transmitter Settings
St Curve (%) -4%
Th Curve (%) LN
Th Hipoint
Th Brake No drag
Shock LF/RF
Shock LR/RR
Carolina RC
Qualifier 1 Qual 2 Qual 3 Main
Laps/Time DNF TQ 2nd Q 1st A-Main
Fast Lap (sec) 16.46 16.51 16.46 16.08
Track Temp. (F) 120 125 130 130
Diam. RF (")
Diam. LF (")
Diam. RR (")
Diam. LR (")
Tire/Rim F RP 30's RP 30s CS 27's 10runs CS 27's Stickers
Tire/Rim R " " " "
Motor binary stk Monster stk Monster stk binary stk
Timing, Comm. D.
Brush/Spring (+) green red red green
Brush/Spring (-) green green green green
Gear (p-s) 98-34 98-36 98-36 98-34
Rollout (")
Battery gp 3300's 1.18 IB 3600 rc professor IB36 gp 3300 1.18
Charger/Amp/Peak 5.0-40mV " " "
Tract. Cmp. F/R none " " "
Ride Height F (mm) 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5
Ride Height R (mm) 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5
Up travel F (mm) " " "
Up travel R (mm) " " "
Droop Front 3mm 3mm 3mm 3mm
Droop Rear 3mm " " "
Front Spring " " "
Rear Spring " " "
Oil, Piston Front " " '
Oil, Piston Rear " " "
Block Car. 4 degrees " " "
Roll Center F (O,Δ) (tabs)
Roll Center R (□,X)(tabs)
Roll Bar F none none stk bar stk bar
Roll Bar R none none stk bar stk bar
Toe Fr., R (°) 0,3 0,2 0,3
A-dive/K-up,A-/Pro-Squat
Wheelbase F (O,Δ), R (□,X) stk
Camber F (R/L) 0.5
Camber R (R/L) 0.5
Bump steer, Ack., Knuck. stk
Shock F Mount (T, A)
Shock R Mount (T,A)
Camber F Mount
Camber R Mount (hub)
F/R Drive, Batt. Pl. spool/diff
ESC/Receiver/Servo QC1, RS300, 94757
ESC Settings Modified punch control
Body/Wing Mazda6, ROAR legal wing
Dual Rate 91% 93% 99% 99%
Car Pro4 pro4 pro4 pro4
Weight (g) 1500 1516 1516 1516
Comments VERY FAST stable, but tight loose perfect
Tweak (F/R Solid)
Discharge (mAh)
Weight (oz)
Transmitter Settings
St Curve (%) -4%
Th Curve (%) LN
Th Hipoint
Th Brake No drag
Shock LF/RF
Shock LR/RR
Blank spaces mean that the setup hasn't changed from the first run OR that it is stock. If there is info under the 2nd column, then it is not in stock form.
jamescam: for asphalt racing you should start with the stock setup and then work from there, adding or removing traction by way of shock options (springs.. mounting location etc..). you will feel the difference immediately as the pro4 comes out of the box as a consistent car.
as for viability to the cyclone, the pro4 should do great in comparison. but the drawback of shaft is torque steer (which can be reduced..). in stock torque steer is not prevalent but in mod, any tweak and your car will pull to one side.
as for viability to the cyclone, the pro4 should do great in comparison. but the drawback of shaft is torque steer (which can be reduced..). in stock torque steer is not prevalent but in mod, any tweak and your car will pull to one side.
Originally Posted by jamescam
As I am finishing up my current project the next project on my radar is getting my recently acquired used Pro 4 up to par for asphalt racing. I am a Pro 4 n00b and while I will do my best to read through the entire 400+ pages on this thread I was hoping you kind folks could answer a question or two...
What is the difference between the standard Pro 4 and the Hara Edition Pro 4?
Is there a conversion kit to upgrade the Pro 4 to the Hara version?
What do you recommend for asphalt racing? I am guessing the 2.0mm chassis but besides that what else should I look into?
How viable is the Pro 4 now that the Cyclone is released?
Your time is appreciated!
What is the difference between the standard Pro 4 and the Hara Edition Pro 4?
Is there a conversion kit to upgrade the Pro 4 to the Hara version?
What do you recommend for asphalt racing? I am guessing the 2.0mm chassis but besides that what else should I look into?
How viable is the Pro 4 now that the Cyclone is released?
Your time is appreciated!
This is how I build shocks without the need to use a shock pump, they travel flawlessly and rebound equally
1. completely empty out shock of course
2. fill shock body w/ oil only half way
3. move shock shaft up/down to transfer some oil UNDER the piston
4. wait 2 minutes or so until bubbles rise and pop
5. refill shock w/ oil fully but dont put too much... oil does not have to be level with the top of the shock body but make sure however much you use is equal w/ all 4 shocks
6. repeat step 4
7. put bladder on and screw shock cap making sure the bladder doesnt open up to get air in or lose oil
8. blast entire shock with motor spray to get rid of excess oil
1. completely empty out shock of course
2. fill shock body w/ oil only half way
3. move shock shaft up/down to transfer some oil UNDER the piston
4. wait 2 minutes or so until bubbles rise and pop
5. refill shock w/ oil fully but dont put too much... oil does not have to be level with the top of the shock body but make sure however much you use is equal w/ all 4 shocks
6. repeat step 4
7. put bladder on and screw shock cap making sure the bladder doesnt open up to get air in or lose oil
8. blast entire shock with motor spray to get rid of excess oil