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Old 08-31-2005, 08:46 PM   #12706
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Default carpet setup

what would you guys use for a some what tight carpet track, and ill be using a stockmotor.
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Old 08-31-2005, 09:19 PM   #12707
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With the optional camber link mounting holes, what would the handling difference be if I mounted the inner link further back? You know how the graphite camber mount has the four holes, in a two by two formation? I'm just wondering what the difference would be in having the camber link more/less parallel on the verticle plane...
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Old 09-01-2005, 12:05 AM   #12708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh69162
With the optional camber link mounting holes, what would the handling difference be if I mounted the inner link further back? You know how the graphite camber mount has the four holes, in a two by two formation? I'm just wondering what the difference would be in having the camber link more/less parallel on the verticle plane...
-Josh
front to back should have no effect practically speaking. on the smallest scale having the camber link at an angle relative to the swing path of the lower arm will increase camber rise, but the degree of this is minute. so in effect it doesnt matter.

the reason why the holes are not in a straight line (a la tc4) is that the extra holes are "half holes" taht is they are half way in between the other holes. naturally you cant overlap holes and still have strength so they just put the middle holes farther back (or forwards).

so only worry about where they are in/out not front/back.
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Old 09-02-2005, 08:52 AM   #12709
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Originally Posted by fjm9898
try any of these, only do one change at a time, and if you still need more go to my next suggestion. 6 degree c-hubs, and 2.5 degree front pivot block. 2 degree camber front and rear. softer front spings. 1 degree tow out on the front, wheels look like \ / only not to eh that extreme, only one dgree or so. having the wheel like the that will help the inside tire pull the car through the coner more. if you do all that and still cant get teh thing to turn then i dont know what is wrong.
Front pivot already 2.5, camber is 2 deg.'s have had a quick tinker today using your suggestions, will test tomorrow and race on Sunday.

Will let you know how goes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Go over the front end of the car, CLOSELY. I bet you've overlooked something.
Have done again, and did pick up a difference with front toe. Am not sure if that is enough to explain lack of front steering.

Will try out suggestions tomorrow, thanks for all help.
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Old 09-03-2005, 07:12 PM   #12710
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On the Pro4 floodo1 is making my Pro4 very fast.. A bit more and it will be dialed.I ran pit 30's on carpet last night and was hooked up in the main in 19 turn,Thanks Josh,I was about to give up on my Pro4..
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Old 09-04-2005, 01:10 AM   #12711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxkat
On the Pro4 floodo1 is making my Pro4 very fast.. A bit more and it will be dialed.I ran pit 30's on carpet last night and was hooked up in the main in 19 turn,Thanks Josh,I was about to give up on my Pro4..
np mang. pro4 is a great car, there IS a reason why hara was so good with it, and its not exclusively because he was the best driver, its also because he had the best handling car!

just wait man, i plan on having the pro4 dialed beyond belief!


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has anyone else run pits on carpet with any success? i HEAR they are THE ticket for rubber on carpet, but i have no experience with them myself.
also does anyone know of a source for them?

thanks
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Old 09-04-2005, 01:17 AM   #12712
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eek 30 bucks at tower... anyone know where to get the 6mm ones for cheaper?
RCMart has them for $19 but you have to jump through hopes if you are a new customer. Anyone know any other places to buy?
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Old 09-04-2005, 01:27 AM   #12713
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RCMart has them for $19 but you have to jump through hopes if you are a new customer. Anyone know any other places to buy?
clamping hex hubs... try Integy.
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Old 09-04-2005, 01:59 AM   #12714
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clamping hex hubs... try Integy.
Do these fit? http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...58105002153.08
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Old 09-04-2005, 08:18 AM   #12715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjm9898
try any of these, only do one change at a time, and if you still need more go to my next suggestion. 6 degree c-hubs, and 2.5 degree front pivot block. 2 degree camber front and rear. softer front spings. 1 degree tow out on the front, wheels look like \ / only not to eh that extreme, only one dgree or so. having the wheel like the that will help the inside tire pull the car through the coner more. if you do all that and still cant get teh thing to turn then i dont know what is wrong.
The camber and toe out, has just about done the trick!

Thanks for all help, much appreciated!
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Old 09-04-2005, 12:55 PM   #12716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamescam
yes... I've purchase several others of those in various thickness to I don't have to use the washer spacers.
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Old 09-04-2005, 07:16 PM   #12717
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so what tickness should i get? the 5mm?
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Old 09-04-2005, 08:45 PM   #12718
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yes... I've purchase several others of those in various thickness to I don't have to use the washer spacers.
Well that just saved me $20, thanks!
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Old 09-04-2005, 09:34 PM   #12719
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floodo1..My car was really fast today.. 10.4's,changed bodys,tried a nemesis today,really freed up the car..
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Old 09-04-2005, 11:51 PM   #12720
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I'm going to ask a silly question..........

How fragile is the Pro4? Is it sturdy, or do you find it to break suspension parts easily?

Thanks!
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