86LikesHpi Pro 4
08-24-2005, 06:54 AM
"As for tyres on carpet, the Nosram VTEC 24R's are a very good choice."
Take Off CS27's, and Sorex 20/24's are also very good tyres for carpet with additive.
Matt
Take Off CS27's, and Sorex 20/24's are also very good tyres for carpet with additive.
Matt
08-24-2005, 07:05 AM
Originally Posted by xxxkat
Whats up Josh,I have not run a pro 4 at the kingsburg track yet,so I'm not sure on the set ups,I think we are going to run a 19 rubber tire class this friday,if we get enough guys to run in it.I would try med. springs,the carpet does have good traction,22 in the rear and 27 up front seems to be the ticket,TQ orange or blue,most of the guys who are running a pro 4 are running a 2 deg. rear block and the stock front caster blocks.We have been getting 22 to 30 racers on fridays.Most of the time we start at about 7:30 and finish at about 10 pm,Hope to see you their.
yeah i'll be there....and a lot more often too
08-24-2005, 10:34 AM
depending ot he carpet sorex 28s will work well to, and they will last a bi longer then 20s or 24s at our carpet track we all mostly use sorex 28s. but like i said it all depends on the track so you might have to give a few compounds a try
08-24-2005, 10:49 AM
Anyone need a 16T 1 piece bevel gear input shaft for the front?
still new with only 1 race day on it...
$15.00 shipped...
pm me..
still new with only 1 race day on it...
$15.00 shipped...
pm me..
08-24-2005, 01:59 PM
too bad hpi usa doenst have setups on their site atm 
08-24-2005, 02:02 PM
Originally Posted by floodo1
too bad hpi usa doenst have setups on their site atm
right here:
http://www.hpiracing.com/setups/su-m.php
08-24-2005, 04:27 PM
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
08-24-2005, 04:34 PM
on the HPI USA home page, click on instructions and then setup sheets. set ups are there.
08-24-2005, 05:17 PM
I posted the link on my reply...
08-24-2005, 05:31 PM
yea he knew that he just didnt understand how you got to that page.
08-24-2005, 08:12 PM
pro4
Sorry, pics are kinda crappy, and I've got almost no hopups, just enough to run modified.
Ceramic diff balls
xenon spur
titanium screws
titanium lower shock mount
I've made the upperdeck mods, removed the center bearing, shimmed the diffs, and sealed the chassis.
Ceramic diff balls
xenon spur
titanium screws
titanium lower shock mount
I've made the upperdeck mods, removed the center bearing, shimmed the diffs, and sealed the chassis.
08-24-2005, 11:36 PM
I like the Pro4..It does not like my driving style..of should i say lack of.. 
I have found that the Pro4 does not like being smacked about by a "hack" driver,on the carpet I break the car.. 
not any better on a TC4,Xray seems to be one of the few cars I'm not breaking every race..but it's slow,I think that helps..
I have found that the Pro4 does not like being smacked about by a "hack" driver,on the carpet I break the car.. not any better on a TC4,Xray seems to be one of the few cars I'm not breaking every race..but it's slow,I think that helps..
08-25-2005, 01:20 AM
A good trick I found to stop breaking bevel gears is to take your finger off the throttle b4 you crash also shim them as close as you can so there is no play
ive stoped breaking them now
as for c-hubs one of the other guys that drives the pro4 here belives they have a life expectancy one goes then the other
for the rear hubs replace the pethetic weak ball stubs with titanium ones
I belive boiling bevel gears helps because it softens the material im sure it would work on other parts as well seems the poor old pro4 is a brittle car
ive stoped breaking them now
as for c-hubs one of the other guys that drives the pro4 here belives they have a life expectancy one goes then the other
for the rear hubs replace the pethetic weak ball stubs with titanium ones
I belive boiling bevel gears helps because it softens the material im sure it would work on other parts as well seems the poor old pro4 is a brittle car
08-25-2005, 08:14 AM
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Another thought, since your saying your not a good driver anyway or at least new, put a diff in the front. You won't really get much slower since your driving is the issue anyway, and when you hit stuff it won't break as easily. With a front diff my car seems nearly bulletproof .. at least until I break a rear ball stud. Waitin for the titanium to arrive to fix that issue.
The car will also feel a little less twichy with a diff up front so you may find it easier to drive. Also if you bring your inboard toe in to 0 or 1 degree it will make the car feel a little less aggressive and make it easier to drive.
Waitin for the titanium to arrive to fix that issue.The car will also feel a little less twichy with a diff up front so you may find it easier to drive. Also if you bring your inboard toe in to 0 or 1 degree it will make the car feel a little less aggressive and make it easier to drive.
08-25-2005, 09:31 AM
yes i would try a normal diff. i know a few guys are my trck that switched back to a diff in their cars, (x-ray and pro4) and they can drive it much better, in fact they are getting quicker lap times then with the oneway because the normal diff was better for how they drived.
for the breaking parts issue i would say i have been pretty lucky so far. i have only had one ball stud break on me, but if i break another ill probably go for some Ti ones. and ihave only had a few egars go but after i played with shimming i havent broke one in a month or two now and i just started to run 19t. my problem is the c-hubs and steering kuckles. i break those every some offten from a hard hit but when you blew out a steering knuckle it usualy is the part where the screw was, which i found out my screws had a habbit of backing themselfs out on the underside of the c-hub, so you have to watcht them.
for the breaking parts issue i would say i have been pretty lucky so far. i have only had one ball stud break on me, but if i break another ill probably go for some Ti ones. and ihave only had a few egars go but after i played with shimming i havent broke one in a month or two now and i just started to run 19t. my problem is the c-hubs and steering kuckles. i break those every some offten from a hard hit but when you blew out a steering knuckle it usualy is the part where the screw was, which i found out my screws had a habbit of backing themselfs out on the underside of the c-hub, so you have to watcht them.