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Old 08-17-2005, 12:29 AM   #12526
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Originally Posted by fjm9898
there are shims that go on the input shafts and diff outdrives. look in the manual and shim those according to it. and work from there. if you think its to tight take some out. mainly just play withit untill you get the driver train how you want it. i took most of the shimmes off the input shafts to free up teh drivetrain but on had impacts the looser mesh risks breaking gears but you get a more free drive train. also every car is just a bit different so how one person shimms their car might be different to another car to get the same effect. really what i would say is just take the time to play with the shimms and get the drivetrain you feel is right for you.

Thanks for the suggestion. I tried a shim on the input shaft and still makes the noise. Then changed the bevel gear to the ones that the kit included but suggested not to use. It got better but still makes the noise. I am thinking of changing both the diff and bevel gears and to put shims accordingly. Any other things that I need to watch out for? By the way, is it normal to have gear skipping sound when braking with a one way? Thanks

Jason
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Old 08-17-2005, 12:41 AM   #12527
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Originally Posted by Yellowtaro
By the way, is it normal to have gear skipping sound when braking with a one way? Thanks

Jason
Jason,

Try checking your pinion/spur gear mesh. Make sure the gears aren't stripped and/or too loose of a mesh.
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Old 08-17-2005, 02:14 AM   #12528
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I've been told that Titanium Racing make a titanium ball stud set for the Pro 4, but I've yet to get my hands on it...
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Old 08-17-2005, 08:00 AM   #12529
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Default Keeping the F/R blocks in place

I have 3 pro 4's and the two that have take the most abuse have a problem keeping the front F/R blocks in place. A brush of the boards or a knock and one end will move leaving a 1-2mm gap that throws off the wheelbase and handling. Just keeping them tight no longer prevents this. I'm going to replace the chassis but was hoping some one had found a way to prevent this from happening? I was thinking of adding screws with nylock nuts in behind each end to keep them from shifting. Anyone tried this?
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Old 08-17-2005, 09:17 AM   #12530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepitcrew
I have 3 pro 4's and the two that have take the most abuse have a problem keeping the front F/R blocks in place. A brush of the boards or a knock and one end will move leaving a 1-2mm gap that throws off the wheelbase and handling. Just keeping them tight no longer prevents this. I'm going to replace the chassis but was hoping some one had found a way to prevent this from happening? I was thinking of adding screws with nylock nuts in behind each end to keep them from shifting. Anyone tried this?
I've had that problem too... but like with any car..I usually adjust and tighten the blocks before hitting the track... but I haven't tried longer screws with locknuts...that may work...unless you hit something really hard and bend the screw..
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Old 08-17-2005, 10:11 AM   #12531
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i figured out all u have to do i put a littl ebit of thread lock on the screws and they will never just come undone. the thread lock works great, never had a screw back itself out since i put some on them. make sure to only use a little because that is all your going to need to hold a screw in. you put to much on them and you will get thread lock everywhere, on your chassis and everything else, along with making it harder to get the screws out when you want to change blocks.
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Old 08-17-2005, 10:18 AM   #12532
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thread lock, ti screws and aluminum don't mix well...they may permantly bond together... ti screws need to be preped with ti anti-seize compound or black grease before installing into aluminum parts...

I may have to go back to the steel screws on the suspension blocks...
that will make my car .002 grams heavier...
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Old 08-17-2005, 10:27 AM   #12533
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Going back to steel screws, are you kiddin' ?!.... that's a huge leap backwards, it's like using a mechanical speed controller instead of an esc!
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Old 08-17-2005, 10:33 AM   #12534
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well seeing how i am not with the times, i sitll use the steel screws and it all works fine lol
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Old 08-17-2005, 10:34 AM   #12535
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I still have 1 or 2 of those mechanical speedos...
so easy to program..
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Old 08-17-2005, 11:06 AM   #12536
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Re: Sliding Blocks

The F/R blocks are supposed to slide a bit in heavy impacts. It is much easier to loosen, re-adjust, and retighten than to buy new parts . This also allows you to take a big hit and finish the race, albeit with a little bit less than ideal handling.

If they are always sliding, the F/R block may be bent and need to be replaced.

Alternatively, you can replace the spacers under the blocks with washers to help eliminate the sliding of the blocks. However in big crashes, the washers tend to dig into the chassis instead of sliding. That can get expensive if it damages the chassis plate too badly.

Re: Gear Noise and Gear Shimming

If you have excessive gear noise and are using all plastic gears, something is wrong. There is either a build problem in the diff/ one-way or an interference problem between the gear and the gearbox. As for shimming, you have two opposing goals when shimming the gears, efficiency and durability. Looser shimming is usually more efficient while tigher shimming is usually more durable. If you want the most efficient drivetrain, you will want a bit of backlash on the bevel gears. If you want the most durable drivetrain, you will need to have nearly zero backlash or even none at all. Also important is using lubrication and the right amount. Moving gears need lubrication.
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Old 08-17-2005, 11:13 AM   #12537
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yea if the gears are only making noise some time it might be because you have a broke one-way those things are bomb proff last checked. but if you can barrow another diff, spool or oneway from some one and put it in and drive it around and see if it still makes the noise, if it doesnt then you blew the oneway out. are you sure the bevel gears are still good? because the only noises i get from my car is when i screwed up one of the bevel gears
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Old 08-17-2005, 04:29 PM   #12538
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wow im suprised that you guys dont know that you SHOULD run steel screws on the bottom chassis!

a large portion of the screw mass is below the top plane of the chassis. so if you save xxx grams in weight by switching to some lighter screws you will in fact be raising a significant portion of that xxx grams when you reapply the weight on top of the chassis. (the reason its not the full xxx grams is because some of the screw is above the chassis plane (where it goes into whatever part)

basically steel screws ont he bottom are lower than where you would place balancing weight already so by going to ligher screws more than likely you'll actually raise ur cg

of course this assume that you're running a weight minimum.
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Old 08-17-2005, 04:36 PM   #12539
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But you can put the weight where you want it!
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Old 08-17-2005, 08:55 PM   #12540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newracer
But you can put the weight where you want it!
Then run the heavy screws in the bottom chassis plate, and the light weight one's on top of the deck in other parts. THEN you have a low CG and less overall weight, so lead weights can be applied to where ever you need them.
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