86LikesHpi Pro 4
08-05-2005, 01:21 PM
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
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Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
When the Aero 2 was out, he used that on the Japan National for promotion....of course, for all the big show, he only use RJ RIDES body....not HPI nor HB.
I think the rest of the ppl did approved the AERO 2 body....that should answered your question.....
Good luck at DE.........
I think the rest of the ppl did approved the AERO 2 body....that should answered your question.....
Good luck at DE.........
thank you..........
08-05-2005, 01:30 PM
I use the ride stratus 2.
A very stable body,great at speed, have to retune slightly to acheive good mid corner speed as it seems to lose traction coming out of corners.
Probably just my setup
A very stable body,great at speed, have to retune slightly to acheive good mid corner speed as it seems to lose traction coming out of corners.
Probably just my setup
08-05-2005, 01:35 PM
Originally Posted by loopedeloop
I use the ride stratus 2.
A very stable body,great at speed, have to retune slightly to acheive good mid corner speed as it seems to lose traction coming out of corners.
Probably just my setup
A very stable body,great at speed, have to retune slightly to acheive good mid corner speed as it seems to lose traction coming out of corners.
Probably just my setup
08-05-2005, 01:46 PM
ooops sorry , unfamiliar with the format 
08-05-2005, 02:44 PM
for the top deck mod with the spacers on the steering posts, can you use the cone head washers and pup the o ring inside the upsidedown washer? i am out of spacers
08-05-2005, 02:47 PM
Originally Posted by fjm9898
for the top deck mod with the spacers on the steering posts, can you use the cone head washers and pup the o ring inside the upsidedown washer? i am out of spacers
cone washer or countersink washer is used.
the o-ring inside the washer keeps enough tension to the screw does
not become loose.
08-05-2005, 02:53 PM
ok thanks, i was getting a little confused when i herd some people saying to use spacers
08-08-2005, 02:34 PM
Last edited by rc-zombies; 08-08-2005 at 06:28 PM.
08-08-2005, 02:51 PM
Tech Initiate
Narrowed upper plate
The sources of 2.25mm upper decks seem to have dried up. My Hara edition drives so much better than the my base Pro 4, that I am considering using a carbide bit and routing the 2mm stock deck to a close approximation of the Hara upper shape. Has anyone tried this? Any results?
I gave my son the Hara edition to race with and now I have to make other work for myself.
I gave my son the Hara edition to race with and now I have to make other work for myself.
08-08-2005, 03:07 PM
Originally Posted by thepitcrew
The sources of 2.25mm upper decks seem to have dried up. My Hara edition drives so much better than the my base Pro 4, that I am considering using a carbide bit and routing the 2mm stock deck to a close approximation of the Hara upper shape. Has anyone tried this? Any results?
I gave my son the Hara edition to race with and now I have to make other work for myself.
I gave my son the Hara edition to race with and now I have to make other work for myself.
rcmodel in HK has it instock...
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/
routing the original 2mm upperdeck will add alot of lateral flex...and lessen the front / rear flex.
08-08-2005, 03:25 PM
Tech Initiate
Yes, we race asphalt so the idea is to get more lateral flex. I prefer to only shop the US internet sources. So, with that limitation, I'm coming up dry on the 2.25mm plate.
I can compensate for the difference in material thickness to come up with the same cross sectional area which should give me approximately the same lateral flex. I'm not as worried about front to back, as I can always insert a stand-off. Has anyone tried this approach?
I can compensate for the difference in material thickness to come up with the same cross sectional area which should give me approximately the same lateral flex. I'm not as worried about front to back, as I can always insert a stand-off. Has anyone tried this approach?
08-08-2005, 03:39 PM
Originally Posted by thepitcrew
Yes, we race asphalt so the idea is to get more lateral flex. I prefer to only shop the US internet sources. So, with that limitation, I'm coming up dry on the 2.25mm plate.
I can compensate for the difference in material thickness to come up with the same cross sectional area which should give me approximately the same lateral flex. I'm not as worried about front to back, as I can always insert a stand-off. Has anyone tried this approach?
I can compensate for the difference in material thickness to come up with the same cross sectional area which should give me approximately the same lateral flex. I'm not as worried about front to back, as I can always insert a stand-off. Has anyone tried this approach?
08-08-2005, 05:08 PM
set up help
in the manual it says that the higer the inner arm mount or the lower the inner camber link mount the more traction, i got the xxx main book and it says that that is the opposite. does anyone have any comments or experience with that? also im having a problem in the front of my car with the axles having play within the bearings, does anyone know how to fix this?? thanks alot
jayrod
jayrod
08-08-2005, 07:23 PM
Tech Rookie
My diffs, both front and rear kept loosening so I bought the associated diff nut like what has been recommended. My question is do you put the nylon side in the outdrive first or the side the metal nut is on? Also do I use the associated screw or the HPI screw?
Thanks
Thanks
08-09-2005, 03:08 AM
Tech Regular
Hi Rc Zombies, how are you finding the Hara Edition Pro 4 ? I have only just run my pro 4 for 2 x race meets now on carpet indoors.It is only the original kit, not even the v 1.1, but i was surprised how competitive it was. I hear the newer kits have a different setup to my original kit. What is your take on this ? I am looking at purchasing the Hara kit to run outdoors on bitumen tracks only, & keep the " old girl " for carpet