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Old 07-27-2005, 12:52 PM   #12271
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Originally Posted by DOMOisCOOL
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I will try out the TC3 gears next week. I assume it's a direct bolt on?

Also is it worth it to run those aluminum bevel gears? Or will they just bend? I'd rather break a gear than to bend some expensive aluminum one.

Rookie Solara: Yeah I have that same feeling. I'm running my car and I didn't even notice that the gear broke. Just when I turned into the apex near the driver's stand I heard the gears. It's didn't really affect my handling but it sucked out some battery life.

Ramon: Not fair, you had a decked out BLUE Pro 4 before . $110.00
the bevel gear input shaft combo runs louder than stock. works great though... but don't recommend you run both the aluminum bevel gear small and large together...you may end up breaking something else...


do miss the Pro3.. was a really good car for me. and I bet will still beat those new Losi's......
I'll probably hand down my Hara Pro4 to my 3yo son when I get the cyclone...
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Old 07-27-2005, 03:26 PM   #12272
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Originally Posted by Tekin
Just read this and I think you'll know how to do it with a pro 4. (this explaination is based on a T1R, but will work for every tourer).
You could also buy a tweakboard (MIP), that's more precise, but that does cost you some money, the other method doesn't.
I have a T1 raycer and have tried it , it does work but my question now is this?>
Two shocks in the back and two shocks in the front.:
Let's just use the back , if you adjusted the left shocks more what will happen with the height on the left side? or vice versa.

Because Team XRAY say to ck for tweaks, you need to lift the front side of the car and see which wheels in the back rises first and then adjust the front shocks opposite of the wheels w/c rises first.
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Old 07-27-2005, 06:43 PM   #12273
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Originally Posted by Fantom11
I've been running a V1.1 Pro 4 for about a month now and I really like it. It is pretty much box stock except for the setup. I will mostly be running on carpet either stock or 19t. What are some upgrades I should get for it? I ordered a diff for the front and I am getting Delrin outrdives all around. I've been reading on here alot of guys talking about input shafts or something with an integrated spur gear vs. the bevel gears. What is that about? What is better for stock? I was also thinking about getting the Carbon driveshaft? Is that worth it? I've noticed there are alot of aluminum option parts I can get, which do you recommend to get?

Brayden
I am adding on to my questions from the previous page. What is the upper deck mod that you guys are talking about? Is the center post for the upper deck worth getting for carpet racing?
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Old 07-27-2005, 07:06 PM   #12274
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hey i have been running a 3mm chassis on carpet for a long time and i going to run it outdoors for teh first time. the other people that have pro4s that run at the track told me the 2mm chassis works the best. my question is on the poivot blocks should i add one of the thin silver spacers with the purple ones to take up the difference between the thickness change between the two chassis?
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Old 07-27-2005, 10:21 PM   #12275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjm9898
hey i have been running a 3mm chassis on carpet for a long time and i going to run it outdoors for teh first time. the other people that have pro4s that run at the track told me the 2mm chassis works the best. my question is on the poivot blocks should i add one of the thin silver spacers with the purple ones to take up the difference between the thickness change between the two chassis?
it's not a matter of spacer but a matter of different chassis. the 2mm chassis will give you the best overall performance and traction on asphalt due to increase flex. you will have less traction using the 3mm chassis. most racers will stay with the stock 2.5mm chassis and just change the upperdeck. thicker for carpet and thinner for asphalt...
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Old 07-27-2005, 10:28 PM   #12276
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Sup guys...Quite a few of you guys have supported P-Dub Racing and to show my appreciation I've got a web contest going for some free prizes. Click on the website for details
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Old 07-27-2005, 10:30 PM   #12277
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I always wondered how it went. Thanks for the explanation.

Allthough it still doesnt make sense to me as in most performance cars with stiffer chassis work pretty much better no matter what as it removes the chassis flex. Like they say you can always tune your suspension but you cant tune chassis flex and with a more stable environment for it to run in it should always be better.

But I cant deny this works, just baffled why we cant just reduce the suspensions stiffness and get the same result if not better results as we can tune front and rear while a chassis is just like taking your car and welding its adjustment points to a certain setting you more or less decide. Doesnt make much sense. But then again to this day no one ever finds the perfect setup. Cause if they did it would be the setup to have. Also refered to as black magic. You never know what will work really. So its hard to really deny any sort of thinking with cars. I always think of racing as the impossible to reach finish. We have been racing for years and years advancing and progressing with our cars getting faster and faster, but still never able to reach the finish as tommorrow someone will always be faster.

Oh well not to get lost in my day dreams , off too find some evil thin chassis parts!
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Old 07-27-2005, 10:36 PM   #12278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
it's not a matter of spacer but a matter of different chassis. the 2mm chassis will give you the best overall performance and traction on asphalt due to increase flex. you will have less traction using the 3mm chassis. most racers will stay with the stock 2.5mm chassis and just change the upperdeck. thicker for carpet and thinner for asphalt...
I was thinking of racing carpet with my friend, and I thought about why you would need chassis flex (which I didn't figure out the answer to- Why would you want the chassis to twist?). So I tried to flex my chassis, and with the stock chassis and deck, it was pretty hard to bend/twist. The force I put on the car would no where near amount to the force that a stock motor would put on the car during a turn. So I was thinking, and knowing people generally stiffen their car up for carpet, wondered why that was necessary when the car is stiff out of the box? Why would I need to stiffen up the car when it won't bend half of what I bent it during a turn?
-Josh
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Old 07-27-2005, 10:56 PM   #12279
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yea our outdoor track the top guy uses the 2mm chassisbut what sit eh point of all the different thinkness spacers for poivot blocks? i just have the big fat purple ones in. so really all i need to do is flip chassi and it be good well besides droop
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Old 07-27-2005, 11:46 PM   #12280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjm9898
yea our outdoor track the top guy uses the 2mm chassisbut what sit eh point of all the different thinkness spacers for poivot blocks? i just have the big fat purple ones in. so really all i need to do is flip chassi and it be good well besides droop
The pivot block shims are for tuning rollcenter and rear: anti-squat/pro squat, front: kickup/anti-dive.
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Old 07-28-2005, 02:33 AM   #12281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh69162
I was thinking of racing carpet with my friend, and I thought about why you would need chassis flex (which I didn't figure out the answer to- Why would you want the chassis to twist?). So I tried to flex my chassis, and with the stock chassis and deck, it was pretty hard to bend/twist. The force I put on the car would no where near amount to the force that a stock motor would put on the car during a turn. So I was thinking, and knowing people generally stiffen their car up for carpet, wondered why that was necessary when the car is stiff out of the box? Why would I need to stiffen up the car when it won't bend half of what I bent it during a turn?
-Josh
All I can say is that it does make a difference. When comparing a car with a 3mm chassis and 3mm top deck to the stock chassis and top deck you can tell there is much less flex, but yes, you do have to apply quite a bit of force to make the chassis flex. However, it makes a massive difference on the track, when I changed to the PRP chassis with exactly the same setup as with the stock chassis the car was rolling in the corners - because there wasn't as much flex to take the force so the suspension was working more. I then put stiffer springs on and it made the car much more responsive, and carry much more corner speed. I don't understand the exact Physics of it, but it does make a difference.
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Old 07-28-2005, 06:06 AM   #12282
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i would be very keen for someone to explain this, as it goes against everything i have ever known about chassis tuning! (for real cars)
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:13 AM   #12283
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Probably it has to do something about short but quick wheel movements up/down, which are not possible due to relatively slow spring+shock reaction, while chassis due to it's lateral flex acts like a heavy spring (having a high speed response to tension).

In 1:1 scale some of shock absorber makers have done some things like progressive shocks (as far as i remember Monroe's "sensatrac" act exactly like this) - this helps suspension to keep wheels on a road when it passes small bumps, but when it comes to heavier bumps the piston of the shock reaches another dampening zone (heavier).

So i GUESS (only guess) this might have something to do with written above, as "gritty" asphalt is something similar for a model chassis as a small bumps are for real cars.

Sorry if i wrote something unclearly - i'm not english native
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:25 AM   #12284
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yeh makes sense i guess

and is carpet that much smoother that it doesnt need this ? (sorry we dont have a carpet track here so i have never seen the carpet you race on)
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:28 AM   #12285
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Oh yes.. Actually i don't remember any carpet as rough as asphalt
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