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Old 07-24-2005, 10:01 PM   #12241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
I am having this same problem. Except my car wants to spin out when I make left turns. I have to baby the car through the left turns and it is even worse in the high speed chicane at my local track. I have made the adjustments to my upper deck, changed all rear hinge pins in the rear, checked the tweak after every run and messed around with droop. I bout this car as a back up to my FK05 and would switch back, but this has got personnel! I also have rebuilt the diffs and thread locked the diff adjustment screws. What am I missing?

Do you run a oneway, spool, or ball diff? would like to know cuz i run a oneway and i would be rplacing it with a spool to see if it would work?
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Old 07-25-2005, 03:51 AM   #12242
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I am running a front diff, oneways scare me
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Old 07-25-2005, 03:54 AM   #12243
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are the kit bearings stainless or chrome steel?
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Old 07-25-2005, 04:56 AM   #12244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
I am having this same problem. Except my car wants to spin out when I make left turns. I have to baby the car through the left turns and it is even worse in the high speed chicane at my local track. I have made the adjustments to my upper deck, changed all rear hinge pins in the rear, checked the tweak after every run and messed around with droop. I bout this car as a back up to my FK05 and would switch back, but this has got personnel! I also have rebuilt the diffs and thread locked the diff adjustment screws. What am I missing?

I had a similar problem before and it drove me nuts trying to find out the cause. I finally realised that this was caused by the rear camber. The Pro4 is very sensitive to camber adjustments and I suggest you do not go more than 1 degree of camber at the rear. The other common thing which causes the Pro4 rear to slide is the rear stabiliser bar. You need to ensure that the tension of the bar is equal at both ends. If the bar is loose and can move sideways, I suggest you get an aluminium stopper to prevent the bar from moving sideways. If the bar is allowed to move sideways, the tension of the bar will be inconsistent and may cause inconsistent grip at the rear. Try these and c if your car handles better.
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Old 07-25-2005, 05:04 AM   #12245
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Have you guys checked if everything is the same on both sides, like "chr15tophe" said?

And yes, those CF cambermounts can be used for the front and rear, but they aren't very easy to work with. If you want to change your inner cambermount you have to loosen the ballstud and a locknut. And that's where the problem is, it's quite hard to get to that locknut since it is under the CF cambermount. I think you're better of with the stock ones, or the aluminium versions, they are way easier to work with.
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:44 AM   #12246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekin
Have you guys checked if everything is the same on both sides, like "chr15tophe" said?
Speaking of equal both sides, whats the best way to do this?

I have spent over an hour last nite resetting the pro4 chasis so its more balanced.

Although i didn't have a weight distribution meter that checks the weight on each wheels, what I did was set the ride height equal on both the left and right springs then check the ride height with the gauge, i added some weights to the side that is higher.

Is this the correct way of doing it? Is there a better way to get a better weight distribution as i know it is very important to get the car to handle the same for both left and right hand turns.
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:51 AM   #12247
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Just read this and I think you'll know how to do it with a pro 4. (this explaination is based on a T1R, but will work for every tourer).
You could also buy a tweakboard (MIP), that's more precise, but that does cost you some money, the other method doesn't.
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Old 07-25-2005, 04:07 PM   #12248
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Just got a screaming deal on a Hara Edition Pro4 (built but un-used) with 5 3300 packs, 4 sets of gently used tires/wheels, and a new stock motor for $255 shipped. I'll pass my original down to my son to replace his Pro3.
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Old 07-25-2005, 04:24 PM   #12249
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Nice deal. I have yet to run mine yet, but is there anything on the hara editions that you dont get elsewhere?

Or is a hopped up pro4 the same minus the v2 shocks, btw what do you guys think of the v2 shocks and has anyone tried the v2 shocks on the nitro cars yet?
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Old 07-26-2005, 01:45 AM   #12250
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You can get any part from the Hara Edition separately if you wanted, but as already pointed out, this would be more expensive to do if you were to do it all separately.

Regarding the new shocks, my LHS has some in at the moment and I was tempted by them, but the shock top doesn't have the small bleed hole for the excess oil to leak out when you assemble the shocks. To me this is one of the best things about the Pro 4, the ease of building the shocks, I wonder why HPI have decided not to include them in the new shocks?
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Old 07-26-2005, 02:37 AM   #12251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skill
You can get any part from the Hara Edition separately if you wanted, but as already pointed out, this would be more expensive to do if you were to do it all separately.

Regarding the new shocks, my LHS has some in at the moment and I was tempted by them, but the shock top doesn't have the small bleed hole for the excess oil to leak out when you assemble the shocks. To me this is one of the best things about the Pro 4, the ease of building the shocks, I wonder why HPI have decided not to include them in the new shocks?
Maybe coz TRF shocks are doing fine without bleed holes?
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Old 07-26-2005, 02:37 AM   #12252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newracer
Just got a screaming deal on a Hara Edition Pro4 (built but un-used) with 5 3300 packs, 4 sets of gently used tires/wheels, and a new stock motor for $255 shipped. I'll pass my original down to my son to replace his Pro3.
I miss my Pro 3
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Old 07-26-2005, 08:30 AM   #12253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOMOisCOOL
I miss my Pro 3
Want a fully optioned one? with the carbon fiber tub and full-length thick upper deck? Make me an offer
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Old 07-26-2005, 08:34 AM   #12254
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Default adjusting droop and height

I was following hHara and moore's set up for the front droop which is 6.5 and ride height which is 4.5, but when I adjusted the droop to 6.5 and try to adjust the height the spring is so compress but still could not get the 4.5 height, do I have to readjust the droop to a lower value and then adjust the height again? I'm using a white springs in the front and CS27 tires.
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Old 07-26-2005, 09:18 AM   #12255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCT69
I was following hHara and moore's set up for the front droop which is 6.5 and ride height which is 4.5, but when I adjusted the droop to 6.5 and try to adjust the height the spring is so compress but still could not get the 4.5 height, do I have to readjust the droop to a lower value and then adjust the height again? I'm using a white springs in the front and CS27 tires.
Check where you measure your droop, it would be good to follow the manual on where they take their readings froms on the arms as results can vary by few mm just by measuring different parts of your arms. Also check your shock position and kickup as they can mess with ride heights.

Most likely your droop screws are pushing on the chassis so much that the arms cannot drop enough to push the chassis higher than 4.5 mm off the ground.
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