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Old 06-28-2005, 01:59 PM   #11926
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i think they fit in it but i am not sure, there is a guy at my local track that has the bmi chassis and he runs the 3700 cells and it didnt seem like he cut it but i am not 100% sure if he did or not
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Old 06-28-2005, 05:08 PM   #11927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjm9898
i think they fit in it but i am not sure, there is a guy at my local track that has the bmi chassis and he runs the 3700 cells and it didnt seem like he cut it but i am not 100% sure if he did or not
they say even using BMI chassis without modified i will a liitle bit out the battery slot.
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Old 06-28-2005, 05:37 PM   #11928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guo Chean
they say even using BMI chassis without modified i will a liitle bit out the battery slot.
sorry really don't understand what you mean?
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Old 06-29-2005, 02:49 AM   #11929
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I want to upgrade to the new knuckles and c-hubs. Is there a new part number or are they marked so that I can identify them?

Thanks
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Old 06-29-2005, 09:02 AM   #11930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCknight
I want to upgrade to the new knuckles and c-hubs. Is there a new part number or are they marked so that I can identify them?

Thanks
don't think the part # has changed... just a running change in the molds...
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Old 06-29-2005, 12:08 PM   #11931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axel
sorry really don't understand what you mean?
it would not really fit the battery slot. sorry for confuse you
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Old 06-29-2005, 01:58 PM   #11932
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Anyone else has had a problem stripping the screw that holds the knuckle into the hub? I'm talking about the button head one on the bottom (not the ball type one on the top).

Yeah maybe the answer would be to "Stop crashing so much", but I was just wondering if there's a fix to this or if it's just a known problem.

The knuckles I use are the stock ones. I tried switching to aluminum ones, but the screw hole stripped as well.
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Old 06-29-2005, 02:01 PM   #11933
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the only bolts I have stripped on the pro 4 are the ones that hold the steering rack in place from the chassis. I actually just did it last Sunday.
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Old 06-29-2005, 02:01 PM   #11934
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a quick fix is to add a little CA after the screw has been strip. should be good for another day of racing. you do not have to tighten all the way down completely.
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Old 06-29-2005, 04:43 PM   #11935
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does anyone know of anyone that makes a suspension shim set...for the hingepins? i remember that trinity used to make one, but now the only ones i can find on their site are for shelfweapon and for "american made" sedans.

so who make metric shims for the hingepins?
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Old 06-29-2005, 04:59 PM   #11936
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I used a set of HPI shims to take away the play. They are a perfect fit over the hingepins.
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Old 06-29-2005, 05:42 PM   #11937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nw racer
I used a set of HPI shims to take away the play. They are a perfect fit over the hingepins.
part number?

sorry forgot to mention that i require part numbers!
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Old 06-29-2005, 08:14 PM   #11938
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Anyone here know the possible best hop-up that is more performance than cosmetic? I'm thinking about getting the aluminum one-piece input shaft to help reduce "wobbling" in the spur gear. That or either the aluminum bevel gears.
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Old 06-29-2005, 09:02 PM   #11939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axel
Anyone here know the possible best hop-up that is more performance than cosmetic? I'm thinking about getting the aluminum one-piece input shaft to help reduce "wobbling" in the spur gear. That or either the aluminum bevel gears.
if your running on a tight track get a spool if u dont have it already. I was running a one way on my local track, then a dif that was tightened all the way down and i still find the spool runs a lot better. Also get the spring set from HPI, or get the AE springs they work as well. Also doing the tweek mod to the upper deck is very helpfull.
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Old 06-29-2005, 09:04 PM   #11940
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i run stock is spool really the way to go? And what is the big difference with using AE springs than HPI ones...will i notice a difference.
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