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Old 06-27-2005, 08:44 PM   #11911
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Does the standard kit need anything right away. ie any weak points? Any must have hop up? I'm trying to weigh out costs to get the thing running strong.
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:48 PM   #11912
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not really the set-up they give you is already fine in general, maybe just the upper deck mod which doesn't require much at all. mostly hop-ups you might want to consider is either getting the 3mm or 2mm chassis, but the 2.5mm chassis is already fine as well. The derlin diff outdrives are good, but i don't have them installed in mine. Just stock up on bevel gears.
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:52 PM   #11913
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Does it strip the ring gear on impact or do they wear out fast when your're running mod?
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:57 PM   #11914
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if you haven't figured out the TC4 yet a Pro 4 will not help you. All the cars will work, it's just a matter of getting the right setup. I suggest you buy a "AAA Main" tunning guide and learn all you can. It will help you know what adjustments do what. A good magority of the time, the pro setups are only a good starting base line. There are just way too many variables to take into account. Each track is different, and it's always changing. Good luck buddy.
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:57 PM   #11915
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if you are running a one way or spool then yea the bigger diff ear will break too. there is an aluminum one you can get but then you will just be breaking the bevel gear but you get both the bevel gear and the diff gear in a pack
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:42 PM   #11916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil
Does the standard kit need anything right away. ie any weak points? Any must have hop up? I'm trying to weigh out costs to get the thing running strong.
get the Hara kit. you will save alot of money in the long run...
it's about $100.00 than the standard kit. comes the the black racing springs, all the arm-blocks and spacers, new flourine coated shocks, new upper deck.. and more. Tower has it for $375 w/the discount code.
the stock kit is fine too..if you're going to run Stock motors. and upgrade later. basically you'll need the spring set. sway bars, arm blocks and spacers etc.by this time you've spent $100.00 and saying to yourself " I should've bought the Hara".... plus the Hara is limited production.
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:49 PM   #11917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayrodracer
has anyone had a problem when they brush up against a wall or board and the car will not center correctly? im gonna try that o-ring trick that was posted and maybe that will help. if anyone has had this problem it would be greatly apreciated if someone has a solution. by the way the guy with the yokomo bd for sale how did it feel as far as handeling compared to the pro4. thanks

to answere your first question... I think just about everyone has had that problem...after a bad collision. the chassis is tweaked. it will turn faster one direction than the other. the o-ring and drilling the upperdeck will help minimize this problem.

who's the guy selling the BD... hey that's me...
I think handling and corner speed is about equal...slight edge to the BD. just a matter who's driving. if you're mainly going to run stock or 19T..the shaft has a definate advantage...faster acceleration.
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Old 06-28-2005, 01:02 AM   #11918
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Will someone give me a link to the post for the O-Ring Mod?
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Old 06-28-2005, 02:39 AM   #11919
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i havent got a link to the post, but you need the following parts:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPB58&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLT69&P=7

use one washer and one oring under each screw head above the steering posts. how you orient the cone washer depends on if you are using the kit screws, or replacing them with csk screws...
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Old 06-28-2005, 03:27 AM   #11920
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they just went over it one page back
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Old 06-28-2005, 04:37 AM   #11921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOMOisCOOL
Will someone give me a link to the post for the O-Ring Mod?
Scroll up several posts, look for the 4 thumbnail pictures in the post.

ack - started a new page...here's the link: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...ostcount=11902
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Old 06-28-2005, 09:10 AM   #11922
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hey Frank. glad to see you back here...
don't suppose you know the ETA on the Cyclones?
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:28 AM   #11923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
to answere your first question... I think just about everyone has had that problem...after a bad collision. the chassis is tweaked. it will turn faster one direction than the other. the o-ring and drilling the upperdeck will help minimize this problem.

who's the guy selling the BD... hey that's me...
I think handling and corner speed is about equal...slight edge to the BD. just a matter who's driving. if you're mainly going to run stock or 19T..the shaft has a definate advantage...faster acceleration.
hey Zombie did you find out how to modified the battery slot for pro 4 or not?
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:45 AM   #11924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guo Chean
hey Zombie did you find out how to modified the battery slot for pro 4 or not?
fitting the YOK BD battery tray...
it could be done...but may jeperidize the structural rigidity of the chassis. the slots will have to be cut longer and wider. with the larger cells...it may get too close to the drive shaft. and on the outer edge of the chassis...it may get to thin. might get weak and easily break. custom chassis could be made to accomidate the BD tray and probably be about 5mm wider. I will ask my CF contact if see if he has the time to do chassis w/the BD tray or even a chassis to fit the larger cells without the tray.

I don't have any of the larger cells.... if you do...can you give me the dia. and length of the cells... gp3700 or IB cells etc...
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Old 06-28-2005, 01:47 PM   #11925
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anyone know if it bigger cells will fit in the BMI chassis?
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