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Old 05-20-2005, 03:06 PM   #11356
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Default Re: chassis flex

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Originally posted by loopedeloop
Hi Guys

Could someone explain to me please, why lateral flex in a chassis is a good thing>

I would have thought as in a 1:1 car that the stiffer the chassis the better as it allows the suspension to do its job properly.

Surely given the correct spring/shock/oil it would be better to have no flex, as flex only aids an untuned chassis??

I'm fairly new to the tech side of r/c so would appreciate a good explanation.

I run the 2004 spec 1.1 pro4 in std trim except for square and hpi alloy parts on asphalt with foams and wonder what the benefit would be of going to a lighter chassis.

Thanks

Geoff

UUUMMM Bump!!

A valid question i think, can someone answer??
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Old 05-20-2005, 03:23 PM   #11357
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i'm also waiting...
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Old 05-20-2005, 06:13 PM   #11358
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Default lateral flex

Well I'm ust guessing here but you guys heard of the Shelby COBRA right? Well they were talking to him about how that car was so successful. Apparently the chassiss had a lot of flex in it and it allowed the car to grab the road better or sorta conform to the road. If they started getting closer to their lap times they would put bigger softer tires on it to go faster. It was one of the car shows I was watching, something like car & driver. Anyway since it was a fiberglass body It possibly could have had lateral flex. just my .02
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Old 05-20-2005, 07:38 PM   #11359
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I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on how to remove the bearings off the steering shaft? I'm trying to flip the ackerman piece around (put it in backwards) but I can't get the bearing to come OFF the top of the aluminum steering shaft.
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Old 05-20-2005, 07:57 PM   #11360
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Quote:
Originally posted by atomic80
I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on how to remove the bearings off the steering shaft? I'm trying to flip the ackerman piece around (put it in backwards) but I can't get the bearing to come OFF the top of the aluminum steering shaft.
That happened to me as well. The Aluminum post flared ever so slightly and the bearing was stuck. I had to dremel the top piece of the post off to get it off. The posts are cheap but it was still a pain in the a$$.
I never found out why it flared. Maybe too much pressure from tightening the screws on the top deck into the posts?
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Old 05-20-2005, 08:00 PM   #11361
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Thanks Scooby....I looked closely at the top and it DOES look like it's flared out a bit. The tolerances on those parts are extremely tight from the looks of it. I guess I'll have to whip out the Dremel then. I think the screw on top DID cause that.
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Old 05-21-2005, 01:28 AM   #11362
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Yea I also had the same problem with the top of the post flaring, I just got a file and filed the top bit away slightly.

I am all for having the chassis as stiff as possible to let the shocks and suspension do it's work but I think the reason sometimes flexier is better is if you're on a low traction surface it generates more grip than a stiff chassis, making it easier to drive.
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Old 05-21-2005, 01:34 AM   #11363
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where can i get the new 05 and hara parts like the one peice input shaft with spur adaptor
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Old 05-21-2005, 06:15 AM   #11364
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Default Pro4 2005

Hi,

RCMart has a Pro4 2005 for about 400$, not bad..

Is the 2 mm main chassis and 2.25 upper deck best for asphalt racing?

The US version will be thicker for carpet, right?

Thanks!
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Old 05-21-2005, 08:10 AM   #11365
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Default Re: chassis flex

Quote:
Originally posted by loopedeloop
Hi Guys

Could someone explain to me please, why lateral flex in a chassis is a good thing>

I would have thought as in a 1:1 car that the stiffer the chassis the better as it allows the suspension to do its job properly.

Surely given the correct spring/shock/oil it would be better to have no flex, as flex only aids an untuned chassis??

I'm fairly new to the tech side of r/c so would appreciate a good explanation.

I run the 2004 spec 1.1 pro4 in std trim except for square and hpi alloy parts on asphalt with foams and wonder what the benefit would be of going to a lighter chassis.

Thanks

Geoff
I think you will find that a thicker chassis will work better with Foams on Asphalt (Just from my experience). I have had two different cars with a thicker chassis setup and it def is the go for foams. For the Pro 4 get yourself the 3mm chassis or the BMI setup is even better.

Coxy.
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Old 05-21-2005, 09:45 AM   #11366
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i have BMI that i'm trying to prep up for asphalt the first time...so should i be looking into foams? I've never used foams or have any knowledge about them...what do the colors stand for.
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Old 05-21-2005, 10:09 AM   #11367
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Default Foam Colors

The colors are the SHORE rating or HARDNESS not all the tire manuf. use colors they go by the numbered rating. 40 shore being the most popular with 42 and 37 as well. Also the Color system combines 2 hardness of foam for example, plaids are purple and orange ( mainly purple with an outer ring of orange) If you go to Team Trinity's web site they have a chart for all the colors and what there used for.
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Old 05-21-2005, 10:10 AM   #11368
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thanks
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Old 05-21-2005, 10:31 AM   #11369
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I just realized that you can change the wheelbase only by the rear-hub spacers -JB
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Old 05-21-2005, 11:03 AM   #11370
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i just want to comment that i'm so happy the pro4 will be around for awhile...since they have 2 new versions coming out, people won't forget that shaft cars are still around...Hopefully the Hara version and the 2005 spec will be able to keep HPI maunufacturing pro4 parts for us, hopefully the pro4 will keep having parts for a couple more years.
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