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Old 04-24-2005, 01:54 PM   #10951
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Wells guys I finally got my Pro4 on the track, all I can say is WOW it took very little effort to get running good, still needs a little dialing in, but I like it already. I need to chamfer the battery slots a little more as I had a few packs eject them selves on contact with a pipe. I put foam on the battery brace, so next stop is more bigger chamfers If that does not work then I will try tape to hold it in.I will shoot some photo's later for all of you to see.

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Old 04-24-2005, 04:51 PM   #10952
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i've just changed to the 1.1 bevel gears and i still get the nastie crunching.is it normal or is there another fix? everything is shimmed to how it says in the manual!
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Old 04-24-2005, 05:05 PM   #10953
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Quote:
Originally posted by moot
i've just changed to the 1.1 bevel gears and i still get the nastie crunching.is it normal or is there another fix? everything is shimmed to how it says in the manual!
It may need more shimming then what it says in the manual.
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Old 04-24-2005, 05:09 PM   #10954
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that's right... you have to put more shims than the manual says...
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Old 04-24-2005, 05:27 PM   #10955
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where do i put them and how tight should everything be?
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Old 04-24-2005, 05:32 PM   #10956
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on diffs read the manual, put as many shims so that gears would be as close as possible to each other but will spin freely without any noise. shims should not let differential slide between the diff case's walls.
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Old 04-24-2005, 10:30 PM   #10957
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I have some shims under all the toe-blocks and 0 deg kickup. How would it affect my handling if I just took them out and ran the blocks flat on the chassis?

I'm looking to reduce roll and increase right-to-left responsiveness.
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Old 04-24-2005, 10:56 PM   #10958
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Does anybody know what brand is the purple motor heatsink that is on Hara pro 4? Where can I get it, link?
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Old 04-24-2005, 11:25 PM   #10959
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Quote:
Originally posted by TFR
Does anybody know what brand is the purple motor heatsink that is on Hara pro 4? Where can I get it, link?
Eagle Racing makes it....... As far as there web site... I don"t know it off hand..
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Old 04-24-2005, 11:33 PM   #10960
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Quote:
Originally posted by adamkerrnz
hey guys, i was screwing around with my pro4 at the track the other day. i was using rubber tyres and a 540J stock motor.

When i turned hard, the car spun around, because of the tyres being too hard. but when i spun around, and the car rolled backwards, it made a clicking sound!
on closer inspection (by turning the front one-way backwards while holding rear wheels, it did the same thing. i opened up the front diff case and there is absolutely no damage to the gears!
i remember putting some diff oil on the one-way bearings and i thought this could be the problem, because the outdrives are slipping on the bearing. could it be this, or something more major!?
Turns out, the small diff gear in the front was missing a few teeth
i have now put the old version gears into the front diff, will have to go and buy another set of the new version ones.
Does anyone have a good diff shim setup for the front and back? i am running the newer version gears in the back and the older ones in the front. i have a few silver and copper lookin shims lying about.
Cheers

Last edited by adamkerrnz; 04-25-2005 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:12 AM   #10961
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I have a question on rear toe-in.

1. What is the original rear toe-in ?
2. If I want to go 1 degree more toe-in at the rear, should I get 1 degree hubs or pivot blocks ??
I am all confused ?

plz comment
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:40 AM   #10962
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlackKat
I have some shims under all the toe-blocks and 0 deg kickup. How would it affect my handling if I just took them out and ran the blocks flat on the chassis?

I'm looking to reduce roll and increase right-to-left responsiveness.
that's what i wanted to do with my pro4, too. after a lot of experimenting, i found that removing all shims from the inner mounting position of the camber links (the links are now more angled than stock and as long as can be) and changing to the 6 deg front c-hubs made my car very fast and responsive! you'll need a set of short ball studs, cause if you remove the shims (the purple spacers), the long ones will hit the diff outdrives
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:41 AM   #10963
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Quote:
Originally posted by Snikkari
I have a question on rear toe-in.

1. What is the original rear toe-in ?
2. If I want to go 1 degree more toe-in at the rear, should I get 1 degree hubs or pivot blocks ??
I am all confused ?

plz comment
1. 3deg
2. 1deg hubs.

why do you need so much rear toe-in?
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:46 AM   #10964
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Quote:
Originally posted by adamkerrnz
Turns out, the small diff gear in the front was missing a few teeth
i have now put the old version gears into the front diff, will have to go and buy another set of the new version ones.
Does anyone have a good diff shim setup for the front and back? i am running the newer version gears in the back and the older ones in the front. i have a few silver and copper lookin shims lying about.
Cheers
every kit the shimming will be different. I use the stock shimming recommendations...and not having any problems yet.
I would put the new gears up front and the older version gears in the rear... the front gears get alot more abuse... I've got several sets of the older version gear..they're yours...just pay for shipping.

hope to get my new one-piece small gear/input shaft this week. along with alot of other '05 spec parts.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:46 AM   #10965
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Quote:
Originally posted by TFR
Does anybody know what brand is the purple motor heatsink that is on Hara pro 4? Where can I get it, link?
ebay... $12.99 + shipping
made by Eagle racing..or check out the Integy website.
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