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Old 04-19-2005, 11:50 PM   #10921
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Dan are you running it at gilroy? or ?? As i said before make sure you stock up on gears.. no joke,but it's worth it.
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Old 04-20-2005, 03:03 AM   #10922
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Default Re: Set-Up for a Bumpy, Dusty Concrete Track

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Originally posted by GRF
Can anyone help me with the setup of my car on the above mentioned track conditions? Currently, I use 50 wt shock oil on all 4 shocks; gold (stock) springs on the front and silver (stock) springs on the rear. I use Sorex 40R tires with red soft medium inserts. The track is quite technical. My car has ZERO kick-up and anti-squat. I use 2 degrees rear toe-in blocks and 2 degree caster. I seem to have a problem with rear traction. Steering seems to be fine. I use front one-way and no sway bars. How can I improve rear traction and the overall performance of the car?
i race on a track sillilar to yours but i use sorex 28s. the best set-up i have found is: the kit set-up. BUT 1 deg camber at front and 1.5 at rear. take off the sway bar at the rear and drop the rear shocks down one hole.

this should give you more rear traction by taking less from the front. via the sway bar. now all you have to do is run it and make a couple of small changes to perfect the set-up. remember only change one thing at a time then test and the if not right cange something else.

this should work if not see if anyone at your club has the pro4 aswell and have a chat and get help.
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Old 04-20-2005, 03:17 AM   #10923
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Default Re: Re: Set-Up for a Bumpy, Dusty Concrete Track

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Originally posted by murfy
i race on a track sillilar to yours but i use sorex 28s. the best set-up i have found is: the kit set-up. BUT 1 deg camber at front and 1.5 at rear. take off the sway bar at the rear and drop the rear shocks down one hole.

this should give you more rear traction by taking less from the front. via the sway bar. now all you have to do is run it and make a couple of small changes to perfect the set-up. remember only change one thing at a time then test and the if not right cange something else.

this should work if not see if anyone at your club has the pro4 aswell and have a chat and get help.
Thanks for the info Murfy. I'll test your recommended settings this weekend and I'll let you know the results. I just have one more thing to clarify. We're in the middle of summer now in our country and the track tends to become "super" hot and makes the track slippery. Are the Sorex 28s suitable for hot tracks? I don't really know what the numbers mean. Can you enlighten me on this? Thanks..
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Old 04-20-2005, 04:00 AM   #10924
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Default Re: Re: Set-Up for a Bumpy, Dusty Concrete Track

Quote:
Originally posted by murfy
i race on a track sillilar to yours but i use sorex 28s. the best set-up i have found is: the kit set-up. BUT 1 deg camber at front and 1.5 at rear. take off the sway bar at the rear and drop the rear shocks down one hole.

this should give you more rear traction by taking less from the front. via the sway bar. now all you have to do is run it and make a couple of small changes to perfect the set-up. remember only change one thing at a time then test and the if not right cange something else.

this should work if not see if anyone at your club has the pro4 aswell and have a chat and get help.
Murfy... I also have another question... did you stick with the 3 degree rear toe in blocks? Or did u change to 2.5 or 2 degrees to increase speed?
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Old 04-20-2005, 04:07 AM   #10925
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GRF If your track is real hot stay with your 40s(28 cold___hot40
If you run mod stay with the 3degree rear block but if you run stock try 2 degrees.If it is real bumpy take off both sway bars
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Old 04-20-2005, 05:44 AM   #10926
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barger is right the higher the number, eg 40, the higher the temp range. therefore 28s are for winter and 40s are for summer.

i changed my rear toe blocks to 2 deg. i may want to try 1.5 and 1 if i can. if you need rear traction go back to 2.5 block. this will help the traction issue. don't worry about the higher number blocks decreasing speed. there biggest use is stability.and plus if there is any less speed it will only be on the straight.

also another i changed which i just realised is the wheelbase lenght. i made it longer. to get more stability. and less turn.

if you have any more question don't be affraid to ask...

good luck for the weekend
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Old 04-20-2005, 06:33 AM   #10927
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Quote:
Originally posted by Barger
GRF If your track is real hot stay with your 40s(28 cold___hot40
If you run mod stay with the 3degree rear block but if you run stock try 2 degrees.If it is real bumpy take off both sway bars
Thanks Barger... Now I know why my car was so unstable when I ran mod las Sunday. I practiced using the 3.0 deg block and it was fine. But on the last minute, I switched to the 2.0 deg block. I could hardly contol the car. Well, the track is fairly bumpy. Lots of debris sometimes plus the fact that the concrete is not well paved. Thanks again Barger...
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Old 04-20-2005, 06:36 AM   #10928
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Quote:
Originally posted by murfy
barger is right the higher the number, eg 40, the higher the temp range. therefore 28s are for winter and 40s are for summer.

i changed my rear toe blocks to 2 deg. i may want to try 1.5 and 1 if i can. if you need rear traction go back to 2.5 block. this will help the traction issue. don't worry about the higher number blocks decreasing speed. there biggest use is stability.and plus if there is any less speed it will only be on the straight.

also another i changed which i just realised is the wheelbase lenght. i made it longer. to get more stability. and less turn.

if you have any more question don't be affraid to ask...

good luck for the weekend
Thanks for your help Murfy. I guess I'll go with the 2.0 deg rear blocks since I'll be running stock. So I'm gonna stick with the 40s after all. Thanks again...
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Old 04-20-2005, 06:40 AM   #10929
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hey guys, i was screwing around with my pro4 at the track the other day. i was using rubber tyres and a 540J stock motor.

When i turned hard, the car spun around, because of the tyres being too hard. but when i spun around, and the car rolled backwards, it made a clicking sound!
on closer inspection (by turning the front one-way backwards while holding rear wheels, it did the same thing. i opened up the front diff case and there is absolutely no damage to the gears!
i remember putting some diff oil on the one-way bearings and i thought this could be the problem, because the outdrives are slipping on the bearing. could it be this, or something more major!?
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Old 04-20-2005, 07:31 AM   #10930
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this is exactly what happen to me. It's most likely cvd binding.
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Old 04-20-2005, 08:12 AM   #10931
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anybody knows who has the carbon (or alum) caster mounts in stock????? I've looked everywhee, and I cannot seem to find them for the Pro 4.....
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Old 04-20-2005, 09:01 AM   #10932
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http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...85&FVPROFIL=++
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:49 AM   #10933
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does the HPI carbonfiber one come with the front and rear or just one side?
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Old 04-20-2005, 11:03 AM   #10934
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Quote:
Originally posted by ATXPro4
does the HPI carbonfiber one come with the front and rear or just one side?
just 1.

consider the aluminum one...it's alot easier to make adjustments.

with the CF you have to fiddle around with a needlenose plier to hold the small locknut under the plate to secure the ball stud.
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Old 04-20-2005, 12:52 PM   #10935
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxkat
Dan are you running it at gilroy? or ?? As i said before make sure you stock up on gears.. no joke,but it's worth it.
Gilroy mainly, I might get a chance to do some RCCAR this year
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