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Old 03-02-2005, 09:29 AM   #10336
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StewartFan- I know it is hard to agree with track changes within that time span. I have two suggestions that came into mind.

1. Did your traction compound have the same 'set' time as other practice sessions? And did you get it applied the same?

2. Was your chassis rubbing at all? I have had this happen on several occassions and it upsets the car alot. I am sure you have checked this since you said you checked your ride height. Sometimes you can tell the chassis is rubbing because of the black marks on the edges of the chassis. But other times a slight rub is hard to see. I would sometimes put small pieces of white vinyl or sticker material on the edges of the chassis and check them after the race the see if they have black marks on them.

Just my thoughts. Are you racing tonight?
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Old 03-02-2005, 10:02 AM   #10337
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I am pretty sure my set time was the same. I try to apply it the same every time.

The chassis was not rubbing. I checked it after every run.

I am not racing to night. I have my car torn appart looking for any hidden breakage that I may not have seen at the track.

I will be there Saturday though.
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:16 AM   #10338
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Quote:
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
Jeff, the overall weight balance is definately affected by battery placement, but with cells weighing roughly 60g each (give or take depending on the specific cell), you can easily acheive the same weight balance as a cells forward position with your ballast positioning. For a stock car (2.5mm chassis), the car is easily underweight even with an additional 60g of ballast added. So, when you bring the car up to weight, just add weight in front of the batteries, in front of the servo, and up front under the shaft. We didn't feel that our car benefitted from a large movement of the batteries (a whole slot forward or back). For me its a compromise either way, so we chose what worked best on our car.
Thanks Erik. I thought about that, but because of 80-100 gm (if i remember correctly) difference between the left and right side, I thought that by adding roughly 60 gms in front of the battery, wouldn't that make balancing the chassis more difficult?
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Old 03-03-2005, 12:41 AM   #10339
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Quote:
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
JDM_DOHC_SiR: We've definately taken notice of the motor position change there

Going to make some updates to the chassis (fingers crossed)
-Dave
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:52 AM   #10340
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Proteus (Jeff): I wouldn't necessarily put 60g in front of the battery, but rather just put all or most of your ballast up front. The batteries, while slightly heavier than most electronics, will still only be around half of the total weight of the running gear. So take care of your left to right balance first, putting as much up front as possible, then add the rest of the balance in front of the servo, under the front of the shaft, and in front of the batteries and you've effectievly changed the front and rear weight percentages (the ultimate goal of moving the cells, or making your car really light... move the weight around).
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:05 AM   #10341
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How should i gear my car differently when I add 60gr of weight to the front?
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:31 AM   #10342
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Steve, you should definately go up or down a tooth. But don't forget to consult manual page 32 .
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:48 AM   #10343
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It sure is a good thing that web pages can't "wear out"... I sure find myself consulting page 32 a lot!
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:43 AM   #10344
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Really nice ti screws.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:59 AM   #10345
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Quote:
Originally posted by stonedgti
Really nice ti screws.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
The best!!!!
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Old 03-03-2005, 03:04 PM   #10346
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hi has any1 got a good shimming guide out there so that i can make my pro4 as free as possible b4 the next season starts.

if any1 has could they please post on like how many shims to put on the left side of the diff than the right that sort of fing really.

thanks
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Old 03-03-2005, 03:06 PM   #10347
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro4racer
hi has any1 got a good shimming guide out there so that i can make my pro4 as free as possible b4 the next season starts.

if any1 has could they please post on like how many shims to put on the left side of the diff than the right that sort of fing really.

thanks
start off with the kit recommendations...and adjust from there... each kit may very...
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Old 03-03-2005, 03:14 PM   #10348
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Hey Pro4Racer

Ive had sucess with it shimmed exactly as kit settings. Ive got the newer 1.1gear kit and got standard shimming of silver/copper one side and silver other. Standard shimming on the rear input shaft but using the old bevel gear set on the rear. As soon as i put the newer gears on it binded up badly so ive stuck with the old gears. Where you race? see your in bromley, wonder if i knew you?

Rob
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Old 03-03-2005, 03:22 PM   #10349
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james baden

i race for eltham at kemnal technology college near sidcup bypass not sure if u know that. ???

cheers
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Old 03-03-2005, 03:24 PM   #10350
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no, just come down and do carpetwars meetings. Definatly recommend using the standard shimming, if you want the car ultra free lots of work on bearing and it will sprin 4ever. Mine spins for bout 30sec with t27 tires on.

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