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Old 02-18-2005, 11:49 AM   #10156
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
let's keep this thread pro4 specific....

there is HB TC thread already started...
On that note...

Is anyone using the Pro4 graphite or aluminum HPI camber link holders yet?

Just wondering what people thought was more rigid and durable.
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Old 02-18-2005, 12:31 PM   #10157
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
On that note...

Is anyone using the Pro4 graphite or aluminum HPI camber link holders yet?

Just wondering what people thought was more rigid and durable.
the aluminum one will be more rigid and durable....and racer friendly... the CF one uses a locknut to hold the ball in place which can be a pain in the butt holding in place and trying to thread the balls in...
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Old 02-18-2005, 12:34 PM   #10158
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Quote:
Originally posted by axel
the car basically is a belt version of the pro 4, with more aluminum parts. I think the HPI should make aluminum transmission hubs for the pro 4 just like the pro 4 prototype.
Is their any pics of the proto with the alum bulks?
I've been advocating alum bulks forever now, but I would hate to have the car weigh a ton. It would just be nice since you have to wrench to much with the pro4 to have alum bulks. The graphite bulk heads strip so easy. And I don't apply much pressure, just enough to where they are snug.
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Old 02-18-2005, 12:43 PM   #10159
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haven't had any problems the graphite bulkheads stripping. did you lube the screw threads before installing?

here's a pic of the proto w/alum. bulkheads
Attached Images
File Type: jpg front view.jpg (59.3 KB, 281 views)
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Old 02-18-2005, 07:14 PM   #10160
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Sweet lookin but just another 415 concept... per say tech racing...
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Old 02-18-2005, 09:12 PM   #10161
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Here we go again... One year ago it was battle for the best Shaft drive.. now it looks like 2005 will be battle of the belts
-Dave
ur rite. id like the belt of hpi compare to fk05. the spur is more accessible..
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Old 02-18-2005, 09:20 PM   #10162
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Quote:
Originally posted by rice
ur rite. id like the belt of hpi compare to fk05. the spur is more accessible..
i agree aswell. but saying that one cars is better than an other buy the way u can change the spur gear is bs.

i think that i would definatly go the hpi/ HB over the new fk05 but as far as proformance goes thats how i will pick which car i want.
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Old 02-18-2005, 10:02 PM   #10163
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Quote:
Originally posted by murfy
i agree aswell. but saying that one cars is better than an other buy the way u can change the spur gear is bs.

i think that i would definatly go the hpi/ HB over the new fk05 but as far as proformance goes thats how i will pick which car i want.
Dude, I keep saying the same thing. But......that FK05 looks really nice.
Besides the T1 series is proven already.
I may just have to buy all of them!
I know for a fact this summer I am running:
Pro 4 and T1FK05
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Old 02-19-2005, 01:05 AM   #10164
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After looking at the new HPI car it reminded me of another car i saw a while ago on rczone.net.

http://www.rczone.net/modules.php?na...rticle&sid=432



Similar Idea. And probably balanced better too.


I think the servo should face forward like the pro4 so people with short servos (e.g. futaba s9550) can keep their advantage.
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Old 02-19-2005, 02:56 AM   #10165
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Is it possible to widen the car? My car is only 184.5 mmm wide. If i put washers by the hex to widen it, not enough hex is sitting in the wheel. Is it possible to get a wider wheel hex?
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Old 02-19-2005, 04:36 AM   #10166
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Default swaybars

hi guys
i am half way through rebuilding one of my 4's and i have fitted the sway bar up to the front.

there are no shocks mounted up yet and i was testing the sway bar by moving the suspension.

when i move the RHS arm the sway bar pulls the LHS up as it should, but when i move the LHS the RHS barely moves. Anyone know why this would occur?

Thanks
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Old 02-19-2005, 05:08 AM   #10167
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Quote:
Originally posted by 414m2
After looking at the new HPI car it reminded me of another car i saw a while ago on rczone.net.

http://www.rczone.net/modules.php?na...rticle&sid=432

Similar Idea. And probably balanced better too.


I think the servo should face forward like the pro4 so people with short servos (e.g. futaba s9550) can keep their advantage.
That's A Andreas Myrberg design, and Anders (father of Andreas) told me that it's one of the best handling car he'd ever driven.
Though, I don't think they go on with that design.
Since Andreas is driving for Xray now (and I thought he owns it), and Anders was very clear to me that they won't put any effort and energie in it.
So donīt expect much of it...
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Old 02-19-2005, 05:16 AM   #10168
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By the way, the link with the pics on it says `Hot Bodies Touring Car Prototype`, maybe this design/lay-out isn't going to replace the Pro 4, but will be available by Hot Bodies (hpi's side company)???
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Old 02-19-2005, 07:05 AM   #10169
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Default Re: swaybars

Quote:
Originally posted by azenis
hi guys
i am half way through rebuilding one of my 4's and i have fitted the sway bar up to the front.

there are no shocks mounted up yet and i was testing the sway bar by moving the suspension.

when i move the RHS arm the sway bar pulls the LHS up as it should, but when i move the LHS the RHS barely moves. Anyone know why this would occur?

Thanks
Sounds like both sides are not equal or something on the RHS side is binding. Try taking the bar off, lay it on a table and see if it is tweaked. Both tips and entire flat between the bends should be touching. If not, bend it back where it's correct.
Then make sure the length of the two tie rods is the same. That's really about it. When you have the bar off, the RHS suspension moves free and drops under it's own weight, doesn't it?

take care
john
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Old 02-19-2005, 07:15 AM   #10170
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Default Re: Re: swaybars

yeah it does drop under its own weight, and i dont think its tweaked, i will have to pull it out to check...

ahh just fixed it
I tightened up the LHS grub screw a half turn more and now it works fine!

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Sounds like both sides are not equal or something on the RHS side is binding. Try taking the bar off, lay it on a table and see if it is tweaked. Both tips and entire flat between the bends should be touching. If not, bend it back where it's correct.
Then make sure the length of the two tie rods is the same. That's really about it. When you have the bar off, the RHS suspension moves free and drops under it's own weight, doesn't it?

take care
john
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