Downforce

E-

What's the difference between the two diff lubes that come with the Pro4?

Merciless

The clear one is for the diffs and the black one is for everything else

Snikkari

Hi guys.
I am about to put together HPI Pro4.
I was thinking about getting a titanium screw kit from Speed Mind, sold on precicionrc.com.
Does anyone know the weight difference btween the original screws and Titanium screws ?
Are there any downsides to getting titanium screws ??

plz comment

Merciless

Originally posted by yellow15
the play on the rear input shaft is only less than 1mm.. and when i put the ball diff in, then there is actually no play at all.
so is it normal?

I'm not stripping mine down to see, but i don't think i got any play at all in std. form


the purple shims? that's the two about 3mm thick or so which a bearing is sitting in between right? or is that something else you are talking about?


Yes

yellow15

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Merciless
[B]Originally posted by yellow15
the play on the rear input shaft is only less than 1mm.. and when i put the ball diff in, then there is actually no play at all.
so is it normal?

I'm not stripping mine down to see, but i don't think i got any play at all in std. form


ok, anyone else??? does your Pro4's rear input shaft got any play when it's sitting in the gearbox with the rear diff remvoed?

scoobydo

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by yellow15
[B]Mine has no play. If it does, it is so minimal that it is .05mm or less. It should be sitting nice and tight.

yellow15

that's with the rear diff removed right?

cause mine got no play when the rear diff is in as well.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

TI is about half the weight...
don't just get any ti screws... make sure they are made of 64 grade ti. softer ti will break, bend, and strip. the 64 grade is very durable.
I highly recommend the Jwerks Ti screws available from Allspeed Hobbies

scoobydo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that with the diff removed.
I did a lot of testing with the drivetrain because I installed Aluminum Driveshafts and ceramic bearings. So I was very carefull about checking for play. I tested the drive train (both diffs, both inputshafts ) and checked for play on each seperatley.
What I found out was that if you are using the delrin outdrives, to make sure you use 1 copper and 1 silver shim. 2 silver shims made my diff not spin as free. The Rear input shaft needs to be as snug as possible, but as smooth as possible. I used the stock 3 shims. Also, make sure the shims are positioned on the side closest to the spur gear, otherwise you get play.

yellow15

thanks
yeah i use 3 shims and they are on the spur gear side but i still qot quite a bit of play, i believe i can add at least 2-3 more shims?

and is it okie if i add 1-2 shims on the other side so i can move the spur gear a bit closer to the rear gearbox (so it match with my pinion gear more)

nomaak

2002...yes. i would love to. hopefully 1 or 2 races after season opener.

scoobydo

iTrader: (1)

2 or 3 more shims! Wow.
Not to doubt your abilities, but are you sure everything is built right?
I would try taking the rear shaft and placing it on the front to see if you get the same amount of play. It could be that the rear Carbon bulkhead is ruined where the bearings are housed and allowing for more play than normal??

macnkitty2002

iTrader: (7)

nomakk-that would be great. hopefully by then i will have a pro 4.

yellow15

i'm startng to doubt if i did somethign wrong but i've checked the instruction like 10 times already and don't think i did something wrong or missed anything

i've recently put in a new rear gear box as the old one's swaybar mounting position got damaged from a crash.
another thing i notice is the front shaft has the similar amount of play as well.. and that is when i removed the center shaft... i think the play was minimal when i put the center shaft back in.


btw, how do you remove the big e-clip on the rear input shaft? the one that is touching the purple metal piece that holds the spur gear.

scoobydo

iTrader: (1)

I just don't see how they would have that much play in them? Unless you got a bad batch of bulkheads? Was the play the same with the last set you said you damaged?
I looked at the book. You should have the three small shims (Z852) and then three larger ones (Z877). The larger ones are the ones that need to be on the spur side of the carrier when installed.
I can't think of anything else? I'll take a look at my car tonight and see if I notice anyhting else.
As far as getting the e-clip out, you have to dismantle the input shaft. Which sucks because getting that last hinge pin in SUCKS!!!
You have to jackhammer the thing in!!!
Anyhow, Looking at the picture I can't see what else your missing to have that much play??