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Old 01-28-2005, 10:26 AM   #9871
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If this is what you are looking for I will have one at Coral Springs on Sunday
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:04 AM   #9872
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Quote:
Originally posted by ashto
Hi
I was woundering if anyone has or can tell me were hara's worlds setups is?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I don't think it's posted anywhere...I believe Andy Moores is available online.

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Old 01-28-2005, 11:10 AM   #9873
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Quote:
Originally posted by jhigga15
I just got a used pro 4 and I am waiting for it to come in the mail!!!! I am wondering where you get that EAGLE RACING HEATSINK for the motor that Hara uses...Please help
Thanks,
try Integy and Ebay.
I got mine from Ebay.
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:18 PM   #9874
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Quote:
Originally posted by 414m2
Ok thanks.

Interesting though, what are you using universals or CVDs?
Im using Unis on the back and CVDs on the front.

I attached a pic of the end of my right rear universal, can anyone figure out what has caused this?
do you have o-rings in the cups?
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Old 01-28-2005, 06:21 PM   #9875
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Quote:
Originally posted by scoobydo
Did you check the outdrive cup set part 73514 #4, the part that holds the lock nut on the right rear. Is it worn?
You may have to dissasemble the diff to check. Its the only thing I could think of that could do that since it is hollow in the middle with a round edge. I'm not sure if the universals are longer by just a tad and could be rubbing the lock nut holder when the car bottoms out on hard left turns coming out of corners under acceleration.
Other than that, I have no idea what would cause that. Let us know if you find out.
Im pretty sure its not the t nut holder because wouldn't it hit the screw before the holder? Maybe not.
The universals could be longer. what i might do is swap left and right to see if the other uni starts to wear as well.

Quote:
do you have o-rings in the cups?
In the rear diff? nah only in the front at the moment.

The diff still comes loose with the shorter screw. Not that i had to run it tightly at this particular track but it did get looser unfortunately. Ill just buy the assciated parts.


My friend just got a brand new pro4 and he was testing it at the end of the meet with a stock motor in it, all he did was take off the rear sway bar and the car looked excellent.
I put my car back to kit setting and it was all over the place, it could possibly be because i practiced at the start of the afternoon and the track must have gained grip as the dust wore off.
The only thing i can think of that has changed since the car was new is the shocks. The rebound foam in the top is crushed and the shock doesnt rebound. I put new ones is the rear and its it returns but it didnt seem to change the car much. I think ill do it to the front as well and completely set the car back to kit. The other thing is that i have done the upperdeck mod. We run rubber on grooved concrete so the UD mod shouldn't wreck it.

At the end of the day i ended up taking all of the spacers under the sus blocks out and ran them flat to lower the roll centre. It kinda worked because i won but the car isnt really how i like it.

What else is there that wears out that could majorly affect the handling of the car?

thanks
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Old 01-28-2005, 09:42 PM   #9876
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kingcrab
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Hi Kingcrab,
may i know where can get this kind of chasis? how much will it cost to special make this chasis? may you send me some of the detail about the chassis? thanks
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Old 01-29-2005, 12:49 AM   #9877
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Default Its your diff

"What else is there that wears out that could majorly affect the handling of the car?"

Its your diff I love the Pro 4 My car would push getting into the corner then the rear end would want to step out on me coming out of the corner (FTTC3 never did that). I tried everything to get the car way I wanted it, I put in a one-way, messed with droop, sway bars, springs, shock oil, rollcenters, camber link lenght, put associated parts in the diff, and even tried different bodies. All the changes I made were helping, but the car still wasn't where I wanted it ...setup wise. Then I came to find out my rear diff was too tight. A buddy of mine took my diff apart and found that the diff grear was causing the center bearing to bind (the bearing was fine). He put a diff together for me before my main the car worked just way I wanted it to. The car had a ton of steering in and out of the corner, I could get hard on the gas coming out of the corner and the rear end didn't step out on me once. Point is every car as a weak point, the Pro 4's just happens to be the diff.
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Old 01-29-2005, 02:03 AM   #9878
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So how did he stop the bearing siezing? Was your diff action nice and smooth before or could you tell there was something wrong with it before you took it apart?
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Old 01-29-2005, 02:12 AM   #9879
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Skill, I had an older gen 1 diff gear he used that and it freed it up. I had to keep the diff fairly tight to keep the gear from slipping, when I roated one of the rear wheels it would want to turn the spur gear over. it also felt like it had a high spot in it. Like I said after he rebulit it with the gen 1 gear and asscoiated parts it worked fine
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Old 01-29-2005, 03:37 PM   #9880
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Here is a picture of the RED and BLUE based Mazda 6 bodies. Now I am working on the GREEN body.
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Old 01-29-2005, 04:13 PM   #9881
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Can anyone help me out with the different ACKERMAN settings.

I know they make the steering more or less responsive but i haven't the time to see which way i want to go ........

Can someone tell me which setting is the more responsive and the order in which they go i.e

Setting 4 most responsive setting 1 least or whatever it is as i can't find out. Dosen't even say on there site !! well i can't find it if it dose
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Old 01-29-2005, 06:58 PM   #9882
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Default shock pistons

When I built my Pro-4 I built it stock as per the manual. When I look over different set-up sheets they list different diameters for piston holes. Can anyone tell me what the measurements are for the different pistons. #5 is the only 3-hole piston so that one is easy to figure out but #1-4are all 2-hole pistons. Does it make a big difference in changing them. I do not race this car, I only practice and change one thing at a time to learn the difference in handling that each individual change makes. The set-up tips at the back of the manual does not explain the diffence in shock dampining.
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Old 01-30-2005, 01:44 AM   #9883
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Default Re: Its your diff

Quote:
Originally posted by sponger
"What else is there that wears out that could majorly affect the handling of the car?"

Its your diff I love the Pro 4 My car would push getting into the corner then the rear end would want to step out on me coming out of the corner (FTTC3 never did that). I tried everything to get the car way I wanted it, I put in a one-way, messed with droop, sway bars, springs, shock oil, rollcenters, camber link lenght, put associated parts in the diff, and even tried different bodies. All the changes I made were helping, but the car still wasn't where I wanted it ...setup wise. Then I came to find out my rear diff was too tight. A buddy of mine took my diff apart and found that the diff grear was causing the center bearing to bind (the bearing was fine). He put a diff together for me before my main the car worked just way I wanted it to. The car had a ton of steering in and out of the corner, I could get hard on the gas coming out of the corner and the rear end didn't step out on me once. Point is every car as a weak point, the Pro 4's just happens to be the diff.
Thanks man, my friend had the same problem and he said he fixed the inconsistent diff action by gluing the plastic ring to the gear, maybe your friend positioned that ring better. I did glue to ring on but it was very slightly not straight. Ill try gluing the ring straight onto an old version gear and see how it goes.
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Old 01-30-2005, 03:14 AM   #9884
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do any of you guys run your pro4 on asphaly with foam tyres?? if you got any setups, i have a set up for a track sprayed with VHT but i need one without VHT
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Old 01-30-2005, 09:12 AM   #9885
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merciless
Quote:
Can anyone help me out with the different ACKERMAN settings.
This was previously posted on the Pro4 forum by Erik S. designer of the Pro4....

"The settings (steering) go in this order from most aggressive feel to least aggressive: 1, 3, 2, 4.

1 and 2 are with the slanted edges of the plate facing forward, and 3 and 4 have the slanted edges pointing to the rear. The main difference is that 1 and 3 have a lot of initial steering, but 1 has more steering at full throw. 2 and 4 will calm down turn in quite a bit, possibly even causing understeer."
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