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Old 01-26-2005, 07:20 AM   #9841
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Quote:
Originally posted by 414m2
the two outdrives in opposite directions and it wasn't smoothe like you would expect. It had a high spot where the action would be tight then you would pass it and it would be loose. Basically it had inconsistent action. At that time I just ran it hoping that it would get better but it didn't.

The ceramic bearings eventually wore out and the diff clicked so i changed to the standard diff balls. There was no more clicking but the action still had hard spots every revolution. This is not the drivetrain action binding but occurs when the diff is out and you just turn the outdrives.

Gerard
Gerard, it almost sounds like on of the diff rings wasn't seat all the way. You might check that there isn't anything like from the mold holding the diff right out. The diff rings are pretty tight, just make sure they are seated onto the outdrive all the way.
Definitely try the Associated stuff like Nexxus said.

take care
john
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Old 01-26-2005, 10:27 AM   #9842
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Lo all.

Looking for some info on the Andy Moore Cleveland Set-up.....

1) Can anyone tell me the Piston numbers needed I.E hpi 1,2,3,4 Etc. or do i need after market pistons ??

2) the rear inner camber link position is not shown on the sheet i got i'm assuming it's std. inner but want to be sure!!

3)Do the external spacers on the shocks make alot of differece to the handling ??

If anyone has the answer i'd be very greatful
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Old 01-26-2005, 10:53 AM   #9843
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I have my Pro4 almoust a year, but newer test it with foams
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Old 01-26-2005, 11:24 AM   #9844
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Quote:
Originally posted by Merciless
Lo all.

Looking for some info on the Andy Moore Cleveland Set-up.....

1) Can anyone tell me the Piston numbers needed I.E hpi 1,2,3,4 Etc. or do i need after market pistons ??

2) the rear inner camber link position is not shown on the sheet i got i'm assuming it's std. inner but want to be sure!!

3)Do the external spacers on the shocks make alot of differece to the handling ??

If anyone has the answer i'd be very greatful
Piston Size as posted by Eric a few months back:
As for the pistons:
#1 2 hole 1.2mm holes
#2 2 hole 1.1mm holes
#3 2 holes 1.0mm holes
#4 2 holes 0.9mm holes
#5 3 holes 0.7mm holes

Do a search for camber link location. Awhile back someone posted the missing links to his exact setup. I've been running #2 in and out on the rear and #2 inner on the front and I like it. Seems like he had #1 in and out on the rear though.

The "other" is referring to external spacers. Like between the shock body and spring retainer to limit up travel. I tried that and it made my WAY to loose on our track.

take care
john
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:31 PM   #9845
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Piston Size as posted by Eric a few months back:
As for the pistons:
#1 2 hole 1.2mm holes
#2 2 hole 1.1mm holes
#3 2 holes 1.0mm holes
#4 2 holes 0.9mm holes
#5 3 holes 0.7mm holes

Do a search for camber link location. Awhile back someone posted the missing links to his exact setup. I've been running #2 in and out on the rear and #2 inner on the front and I like it. Seems like he had #1 in and out on the rear though.

The "other" is referring to external spacers. Like between the shock body and spring retainer to limit up travel. I tried that and it made my WAY to loose on our track.

take care
john
I thought those external spacers might loosen it up a fair bit

I'll probably leave them off to start with then and see how it feels...

Right now to try and find those camber link mounting points ?!?!

Thanks for the help John
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:49 PM   #9846
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Anyone able to tell me which pistons andy was using with his set-up also then as from what i can see they don't match up with hpi's own ones
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:18 PM   #9847
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Quote:
Originally posted by tony2
well guys just got back from the summer nats here in aust. any way surikarn and muria(the pro 4 designer not sure of spelling) were out here having a play. surikarn won, but only casue he had the best cells! no he is prity damn good, but i learnt a couple things about the car like the shims of the diff anyway those hpi/HB guys are top fellas
So fill us in, what did you learn!
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:28 PM   #9848
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Quote:
Originally posted by Merciless
Anyone able to tell me which pistons andy was using with his set-up also then as from what i can see they don't match up with hpi's own ones
Try #3 in the front with 70 wt. and #2 in back with 50 wt. You can adjust a little from, but should get you close. If it's cold then drop down 10 wt. from that before you even hit the track.
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:45 PM   #9849
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Try #3 in the front with 70 wt. and #2 in back with 50 wt. You can adjust a little from, but should get you close. If it's cold then drop down 10 wt. from that before you even hit the track.
Thanks,

That was along the lines i was thinking but i'll go for 60/50wt straight off as it's always cold here in England

If anyone else has any better idea's on the pistons i'd be glad to hear
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Old 01-26-2005, 07:14 PM   #9850
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Quote:
Originally posted by nomaak
regg...i really don't see where you have room to crack..you didn't race your car for MONTHS!!! "naw...it's not ready yet....naw, it's not ready yet.." yo....gimme some slack! at least i raced mine as soon as it was built. can't say it's too bad tho. 2 tq's and a track record. not bad for a car outta tha box.
ehy give me a brake ur rght my brotha i had to get all my parts
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:18 PM   #9851
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photos of the summernats, including surikarns car can be found here.
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:39 PM   #9852
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
414m2...your problem sounds unique...i have 3 diffs and spare diff rings and have never noticed that problem.

hope something works out for you.

do yourself a favor and build the diffs up with a AE TC3 screw and t-nut...then just a dab of locktight on the end of the screw before you tighten it up....works awesome.

I had a bad feeling that no one else had this problem.
Would the AE screw be shorter by any chance? might explain why it works better. It can't be just a coincidence that there is strange wear on a part near the diff screw and that the diff strangely comes loose. I found that it undone to a certain point each time which may mean that the screw becomes out of reach at that point, otherwise it would fully undo.
Thanks



Quote:
Gerard, it almost sounds like on of the diff rings wasn't seat all the way. You might check that there isn't anything like from the mold holding the diff right out. The diff rings are pretty tight, just make sure they are seated onto the outdrive all the way.
Definitely try the Associated stuff like Nexxus said.

take care
john
Yeah thats what i thought initially so i bought the delrin which are machined and should be perfect, i even found that one set of rings rocked on the actual diff outdrive itself. The last thing i did was glue the plastic ring to the diff gear like the old manual sais, and i also pushed the rings as hard as i could onto the outdrives. The action is alot more consistent, not perfect but getting there but now the diff action is tighter when you have the desired slip level.
Maybe ill try getting new diff balls and new rings and that associated mod.

thanks


Has anyone found that wear on the end of the right rear universal like mine?
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Old 01-26-2005, 11:09 PM   #9853
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Quote:
Originally posted by 414m2
Has anyone found that wear on the end of the right rear universal like mine?
Just checked mine. Thats a negative.
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Old 01-27-2005, 12:28 AM   #9854
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merciless,

spoke to andy moore at dms on sunday and also another team driver the other week at dms and both said to run tamiya number 3 pistons, you can get them from demon racing, i can pm you the number if you need, i have fitted them but not run them yet but will do at west london at the weekend, will let you know how it goes

J-P
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Old 01-27-2005, 12:44 AM   #9855
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Default new chassis

same as Hara's car
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