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Old 01-24-2005, 01:08 AM   #9811
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I'm running the 3.0 block up front with a one-way and a 2.0 block in the rear, on asphalt with rubber tires. Different storkes for differnet folks, I guess. Has anyone thats done the Associated parts in thier diff "mod", found that it doesn't work that well with the 1.1 gears. I had a hard time getting the adjustment right, it wasn't til a buddy took my dif apart and just happened to put on an older style diff gear on did the diff work right. Did anyone else have this problem?? One more question do you use the shorter Associated diff spring or the longer hpi spring??? BTW after the diff was adjusted right my car was the best it's ever been
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Old 01-24-2005, 08:16 AM   #9812
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I usually run my Pro 4 on a super smooth prepared "tennis court" grade asphalt track. First time out I dumped the one-way and installed a front diff. Last week I broke the front HPI diff screw and replaced it with another HPI diff screw. Followed Erik's diff break-in instructions and all is well. I've installed 2.5 rear pivot block, and 1.5 front pivot blocks and run Take-Off CS27 pre--mounted tires. I may try the car with 2.0 rear and 1.0 front blocks. This is with a stock 27T Monster motor.
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Old 01-24-2005, 01:41 PM   #9813
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hmm... hello,

i have pro 4, i love it etc... though i want to clear something out...

about upper deck mod... what does this mod change? do i have to mod my original upper deck plate, or use 2.5 mm?
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Old 01-24-2005, 02:33 PM   #9814
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Quote:
Originally posted by Exe
hmm... hello,

i have pro 4, i love it etc... though i want to clear something out...

about upper deck mod... what does this mod change? do i have to mod my original upper deck plate, or use 2.5 mm?
in theory you could do it with any thickness upper deck.

the mod helps the car not hold a tweak. since i've done the mod to my top deck my car is much better at not holding a tweak after a hit.

note: if you run foams i would not recommend doing it.

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Old 01-24-2005, 02:42 PM   #9815
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what do you mean by saying "car is not holding a tweak" i don't get it.. sorry, english is not my native language...

and will 2.5 mm upper deck make any difference in driving?
i drive with rubber tires on rubber surface, like in stadiums,
where athletes run.. now we plan to buy carpets... do i need 3 mm chassis ?
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Old 01-24-2005, 03:55 PM   #9816
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Quote:
Originally posted by Exe
what do you mean by saying "car is not holding a tweak" i don't get it.. sorry, english is not my native language...

and will 2.5 mm upper deck make any difference in driving?
i drive with rubber tires on rubber surface, like in stadiums,
where athletes run.. now we plan to buy carpets... do i need 3 mm chassis ?
You do want the car to "NOT holding a tweak"....if car holding a tweak, then your drive line will be off, and the rest of the setting is off.....
Beside, I am not sure there is any car right now that cannot hold the tweak after hitting any board....just depends on how bad was the tweak after the impact.
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Old 01-24-2005, 03:59 PM   #9817
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so i understand this is all only for handling extreme crash? if yes, then i probably don't need that much... what about thicker 2.5 upper deck and 3 mm chassis ?
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Old 01-24-2005, 04:01 PM   #9818
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Quote:
Originally posted by Exe
so i understand this is all only for handling extreme crash? if yes, then i probably don't need that much... what about thicker 2.5 upper deck and 3 mm chassis ?
thicker plate and chassis is highly recommend for high traction carpet track... for outdoor asphalt.. the 2.0mm and stock upperdecks for the best traction.
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Old 01-24-2005, 04:01 PM   #9819
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well i finally managed to break a part on my pro4 on the weekend... went sideways top speed (8x1 orion v2) into a netball hoop pole, and despite the foam cushion on the pole, managed to smash a chunk out of the side of the car, around the battery slots. Luckily the cells werent damaged any further than a tear in the heatshrink.
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Old 01-24-2005, 06:51 PM   #9820
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Quote:
Originally posted by Exe
so i understand this is all only for handling extreme crash? if yes, then i probably don't need that much... what about thicker 2.5 upper deck and 3 mm chassis ?
In my opinion...

If you are racing with foam tires on carpet a 3mm chassis will definitely help you.

If you are racing with rubber tires on carpet the stock chassis is fine...if you look at the team hpi drivers a lot of them have been using the option 2mm chassis on carpet with rubber tires.
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:18 PM   #9821
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
In my opinion...

If you are racing with foam tires on carpet a 3mm chassis will definitely help you.

If you are racing with rubber tires on carpet the stock chassis is fine...if you look at the team hpi drivers a lot of them have been using the option 2mm chassis on carpet with rubber tires.
seems like, its based on TOTAL traction. not just on surface. tires + surface seems to dictate needed chassis thickness.
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:43 PM   #9822
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Ok finally found the TC3 T nuts and bolt and looks like it fixed my problem! Yay!!! at least the diff didn't came lose and i haven't snap the bolt again.
i didin't get the TC3 springs so just using the HPI one and it seems working perfectly fine.

OKie, i'm running my pro4 at my local outdoor track.. it's a fairly small and technical outdoor track and i'm using foam tyres.
Just wonder if there is any suspension setup that i can base on? i checked the HPI site but all the outdoor ones are running rubber tyres.. i've gone thru 80% of this thread and still haven't see any setup that may suit me.. so anyone? Oh, I'm running a Monster Stock Pro motor btw.


Another thing, i was practising with my friend at the track yesterday. He's driving a TRF415MS and we are both running the almost brand new Monster Stock Pro motor and foam tyres. His gear ratio is 6.5x and mine is 6.6x. We are pretty even on most part of the track except the main straight where his car would pull away from me quite easily near the end. The main straight is approx 30meters long (just a rough guess) and the first 15-20m we are dead even but his car would suddenly pull away from me in the last 10 meter or so.. he's got a top range LRP ESC (forgot the model) while i only got a cheap forward only ESC. He's running 3600 side by side pack and i'm running GP3300 stick pack. I understand that the battery, ESC, gear ratio, and also belt driven vs shaft driven drivetrain, will all affect the top speed. But what do you guys think is the most important factor? I'm asking this as i have a few things on my upgrade list: battery charger, ESC, radio transmitter, servo..etc but i want to see whether my cheap ESC is affecting the performance the most and i should upgrade it first?

Last edited by yellow15; 01-24-2005 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:59 PM   #9823
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Did you try 6.4x?

Last edited by BeWa; 01-24-2005 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:59 PM   #9824
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Oops! double post

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Old 01-24-2005, 08:09 PM   #9825
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ok his exact ratio is 6.561 : 1
and mine is 6.64 : 1

so the difference is only like around 1 percent but the real difference in our top speed is definitely more than 1 % i think
I don't have the right pinion/spur gear to try a 6.5 or 6.4 ratio and would prefer not to buy some new gears just to test it so i can save up the $$$ for my other upgrades
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