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Old 01-13-2005, 03:10 PM   #9691
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How should I gear when using a new diff as opposed to an old one?
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Old 01-13-2005, 03:17 PM   #9692
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evicerator
How should I gear when using a new diff as opposed to an old one?
depends if that new gear was installed from a freshly opened bag or has been sitting around in your parts box exposed.
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Old 01-13-2005, 03:22 PM   #9693
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Evicerator: Please check page 32 of your manual for gear ratio recommendations.
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Old 01-13-2005, 03:48 PM   #9694
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Don't know whether i'm just back luck, or it's just me but:

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3.) Hold the left rear tire and gradually feed in some throttle. Do this for 5~10 seconds. Do NOT use more than 1/8th throttle.
Tried that and snapped the center screw


Quote:
7.) Now, try to rotate the right rear tire. If it slips (rotates at all), your diff is too loose and needs to be tightened. Caution: if you try to use too much force on a properly tightened diff, you can cause the bevel gears to jump teeth (you will hear a popping noise, scary, but 9 times out of 10 causing no damage).
tried that and guess what!!! i'm so lucky that even with only 10% chance, i snapped the center screw (again!)

Quote:
Note: You can set your diff looser than this, but this is always a good starting point and you can then tune to taste. If your diff is too loose, you will melt and/ or break parts.
Yes i think i know it now


and my final question:

How should I gear if i've two HPI stickers on the chassis?
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Old 01-13-2005, 03:56 PM   #9695
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can a spool be made to work on a tight carpet track? tha one-way is just too much. i can't get a consistant "feel" in the car so i glued the one-way up. with all the problems i had my first time with the car...i must say that it is very durable. the only thing i broke was the servo case. (not gears) i think my servo-saver was too tight.
after taxes i plan on getting more speed parts and tires for it. of all the tracks i've visited and raced..all the top drives said to use jaco plaid/purples. first get the tires, then work on set-up. i've been using "nitro" tires with varied succes. ($15 a pair as apposed to $22 a pair) but sometimes ya just gotta BUY speed. LOL
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Old 01-13-2005, 04:42 PM   #9696
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Hey Pete, if you try the spool let me know how it works!
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Old 01-13-2005, 06:52 PM   #9697
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Quote:
Originally posted by jt6
Hey Pete, if you try the spool let me know how it works!
i hve the spool but not running it till outdoor season start also i will be breaking the car dwn and putting the 3.0 chasis on for the birds will be dwn there nxt week to test so keep the pro 4 rolling at the wood
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Old 01-13-2005, 06:53 PM   #9698
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Quote:
Originally posted by yellow15
Don't know whether i'm just back luck, or it's just me but:


Tried that and snapped the center screw



tried that and guess what!!! i'm so lucky that even with only 10% chance, i snapped the center screw (again!)


Yes i think i know it now


and my final question:

How should I gear if i've two HPI stickers on the chassis?
DARN IT!!! I am also getting sick and tired of these diff problems

I also experience loosening of the diffs. It started out in the rear then I started experiencing the same in the front. Already had 2 races wherein I was running 2nd or 3rd place. Every after final heat run, I inspect the diff and find that it is becoming loose. I therefore tighten every after a run. In the last final heat, am still running 2nd or 3rd then suddenly the center diff screw head breaks and makes me DNF the last final heat, thus dropping my standing.

Bought 2 new diffs, ceramic nitride balls, and Version 1.1 diff gears. B4, the suspect was that the lock nut was damaged. Hopefully with these 2 new diffs, I won't have the same problems.

I am very happy with the PRO4 - am one of those from our club that is sticking it out with pro4 and not shifting to XRAY - if not only for these diff problems.

My setting for diff tightening is simple.
Rear - tighten til it stops. go back 1/2 turn.
Front - tighten til it stops/ go back 1/4 turn.

I have a race tonight again for MOD - hopefully my new diffs work properly this time.

Question, with ceramic nitride balls, the diffs a definitely more plush and smooth. Do I follow the same tightening setting above? Seems too loose now - or is it just because it is smoother?
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:00 PM   #9699
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Default what the biggest gear i can run on 3.0 chasis

what the biggest gear and clearance i can run on a 3.o chasis also after many months of banging and get knock around i been breaking in the past 2 weeks a-arm and c-hubs but still love it

pete dont mess with the one way let the car come to you just be patience
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:04 PM   #9700
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Default Re: Moore's setup up

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
On our track with Moore's setup I went to 2* caster block, Rear camber link at #2 in and out, and rear shock in one hole from outside (#3 maybe???) That really locked in the balance with lots of steering on and off power. That's with mod though. Stock might changes things a little.
I couldn't do the up-travel limiting though. Took away way to much rear bite. I can see how it would probably be good for big races where the traction gets so high, just not good for club racing.

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i felt the 2block did not do justice for me i had to use it because i brk my 4 blks and the place did not hve them but overall im happy
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:20 PM   #9701
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Default Re: what the biggest gear i can run on 3.0 chasis

Quote:
Originally posted by tc3 racer sc
what the biggest gear and clearance i can run on a 3.o chasis also after many months of banging and get knock around i been breaking in the past 2 weeks a-arm and c-hubs but still love it

pete dont mess with the one way let the car come to you just be patience
104 spur is the biggest one that will fit with the 3mm chassis...you need to give it a little extra clearance by beveling the edges a little but that is the biggest one that you can fit.
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:42 PM   #9702
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Quote:
My setting for diff tightening is simple.
Rear - tighten til it stops. go back 1/2 turn.
Front - tighten til it stops/ go back 1/4 turn.
by "tighten till it stops" you mean using a normal screw driver and "normal force"? cos i can tighten it till it (the center screw) snaps easily without it stops

Last edited by yellow15; 01-13-2005 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:44 PM   #9703
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regg...too late bud. the oneway is epoxied shut. now i have a heavy spool. i've done this mod too ALL my rs4 cars and it helped a lot. let's see if i can make it 5 for 5.

spool on carpet is a bit difficult to hook uo but it's gotta be better than a one-way.
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:57 PM   #9704
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Quote:
Originally posted by yellow15
by "tighten till it stops" you mean using a normal screw driver and "normal force"? cos i can tighten it till it (the center screw) snaps easily with it stops
Using a normal screw driver, I initially tighten using normal force. When the lock nut is nearing the end of the threads of the center diff screw, I tighten using very light force very slowly the lock nut. OnceI feel that the lock nut has reached the end of the threads of the bolt, I loosen 1/2 or 1/4.

I think there is really something wrong with the diffs. Will let you know what happens to me tonight with my new diffs. With my old diffs, I even tried putting a very small drop of turbo glue in the lock nut but it still loosened and finally snapped the screw head off.

Dunno really why the design of the diff screw was made to be like that:

The screw head is big. Even the space where you put the screw driver is a bit wide. With a big screw head and a small bodt or neck, I think it is really prone to breaking off.

If you'd look at other car-makes, the center diff screw is small. The screw head is also a hex-type. Actually tried using the center diff screw of the ntc3. It fits but the length is a tad short for the lock nut to reach the screw threads.
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Old 01-13-2005, 08:00 PM   #9705
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Jhernandez,
A local at my track was having the same problem you are having with the diffs. He replaced the diff hardware with associated tc3 parts and has not had a problem since. It loosens because the diff catches on the screw and it just backs off when running.
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