Steve Weiss

How should I gear when using a new diff as opposed to an old one?

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

depends if that new gear was installed from a freshly opened bag or has been sitting around in your parts box exposed.

Erik Shauver

Evicerator: Please check page 32 of your manual for gear ratio recommendations.

yellow15

Don't know whether i'm just back luck, or it's just me but:

Tried that and snapped the center screw


tried that and guess what!!! i'm so lucky that even with only 10% chance, i snapped the center screw (again!)

Yes i think i know it now


and my final question:

How should I gear if i've two HPI stickers on the chassis?

nomaak

can a spool be made to work on a tight carpet track? tha one-way is just too much. i can't get a consistant "feel" in the car so i glued the one-way up. with all the problems i had my first time with the car...i must say that it is very durable. the only thing i broke was the servo case. (not gears) i think my servo-saver was too tight.
after taxes i plan on getting more speed parts and tires for it. of all the tracks i've visited and raced..all the top drives said to use jaco plaid/purples. first get the tires, then work on set-up. i've been using "nitro" tires with varied succes. ($15 a pair as apposed to $22 a pair) but sometimes ya just gotta BUY speed. LOL

jt6

iTrader: (3)

Hey Pete, if you try the spool let me know how it works!

tc3 racer sc

i hve the spool but not running it till outdoor season start also i will be breaking the car dwn and putting the 3.0 chasis on for the birds will be dwn there nxt week to test so keep the pro 4 rolling at the wood

jihernandez

DARN IT!!! I am also getting sick and tired of these diff problems

I also experience loosening of the diffs. It started out in the rear then I started experiencing the same in the front. Already had 2 races wherein I was running 2nd or 3rd place. Every after final heat run, I inspect the diff and find that it is becoming loose. I therefore tighten every after a run. In the last final heat, am still running 2nd or 3rd then suddenly the center diff screw head breaks and makes me DNF the last final heat, thus dropping my standing.

Bought 2 new diffs, ceramic nitride balls, and Version 1.1 diff gears. B4, the suspect was that the lock nut was damaged. Hopefully with these 2 new diffs, I won't have the same problems.

I am very happy with the PRO4 - am one of those from our club that is sticking it out with pro4 and not shifting to XRAY - if not only for these diff problems.

My setting for diff tightening is simple.
Rear - tighten til it stops. go back 1/2 turn.
Front - tighten til it stops/ go back 1/4 turn.

I have a race tonight again for MOD - hopefully my new diffs work properly this time.

Question, with ceramic nitride balls, the diffs a definitely more plush and smooth. Do I follow the same tightening setting above? Seems too loose now - or is it just because it is smoother?

tc3 racer sc

what the biggest gear and clearance i can run on a 3.o chasis also after many months of banging and get knock around i been breaking in the past 2 weeks a-arm and c-hubs but still love it

pete dont mess with the one way let the car come to you just be patience

tc3 racer sc

i felt the 2block did not do justice for me i had to use it because i brk my 4 blks and the place did not hve them but overall im happy

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

104 spur is the biggest one that will fit with the 3mm chassis...you need to give it a little extra clearance by beveling the edges a little but that is the biggest one that you can fit.

yellow15

by "tighten till it stops" you mean using a normal screw driver and "normal force"? cos i can tighten it till it (the center screw) snaps easily without it stops

nomaak

regg...too late bud. the oneway is epoxied shut. now i have a heavy spool. i've done this mod too ALL my rs4 cars and it helped a lot. let's see if i can make it 5 for 5.

spool on carpet is a bit difficult to hook uo but it's gotta be better than a one-way.

jihernandez

Using a normal screw driver, I initially tighten using normal force. When the lock nut is nearing the end of the threads of the center diff screw, I tighten using very light force very slowly the lock nut. OnceI feel that the lock nut has reached the end of the threads of the bolt, I loosen 1/2 or 1/4.

I think there is really something wrong with the diffs. Will let you know what happens to me tonight with my new diffs. With my old diffs, I even tried putting a very small drop of turbo glue in the lock nut but it still loosened and finally snapped the screw head off.

Dunno really why the design of the diff screw was made to be like that:

The screw head is big. Even the space where you put the screw driver is a bit wide. With a big screw head and a small bodt or neck, I think it is really prone to breaking off.

If you'd look at other car-makes, the center diff screw is small. The screw head is also a hex-type. Actually tried using the center diff screw of the ntc3. It fits but the length is a tad short for the lock nut to reach the screw threads.

JimMcClure

Jhernandez,
A local at my track was having the same problem you are having with the diffs. He replaced the diff hardware with associated tc3 parts and has not had a problem since. It loosens because the diff catches on the screw and it just backs off when running.