Proteus

C'mon. How are you gonna ask that question. We're all gonna tell you to dump the AE car and get the Pro4.

Actually I would rather there be less people running the Pro4 (especially outdoors). That way I'll have less competition. In all seriousness....out the box the car is great. The only thing you really need is different springs/shock oil to tune to your likes. Also, the upperdeck mod for running outdoors. Some do well with the stock chassis however you might want to try the 2mm chassis. And lastly you might want to try a spool over the one way. But try it box stock and see how you do first. You won't be disappointed.

ghoppa

iTrader: (63)

I went bact 30+ pages on this thread, to understand the upper deck mod (but no luck)....

Can you explain the modification, and why is this being done???

is the 2mm chassis "softer"???? than the stock one???

Proteus

Thanks Rob. I'm kinda curious is how Eli was able to run that much ride height with the 2mm shims under the blocks. Didn't he have traction rolling problems? I know when I ran 1.5 mm spacers with a 4.5mm ride height my car would just about 2 wheel around the corner.

Proteus

I haven't done much experimenting with ackerman except going from 1 to 2 and vice versa. But what about when you flip the plate. I feel the difference between 1 and 2. But what's the difference between using 1 or 3 and 2 or 4?

Proteus

The modification is done so that when you tap a board or car or a marshall, the car does not stay "tweaked". Basically you enlarge 4 holes on the upperdeck. Replace those four screws with button head type screws. That way you only have 4 screws holding the top deck to both gear boxes, 2 for the steering posts and 2 for the motor mount.

Upperdeck mod

Pro4

iTrader: (1)

The 2mm chassis is thinner, therefore making it more flexible.

Proteus

Because I was bored at 3am....I came across a someone selling a Pro4 on ebay. According to the seller the car was "professionally built". With that in mind take a look at the picture and tell me if I'm just seeing things.

Ebay Pro4

Gosh...some people.

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

Can you remove the motor quickly from the rear by using a long hex driver and without disassembling anything?

I read on the HPI site that the Pro 4 steering rack has 6 bearings. Are there two in the CF steering plate? Is there much slop in the steering rack?

AMGRacer

Now that is whack. I would love to see him professionally build a gascar.

AMGRacer

Interesting. I played with my car tonight and I can say as NOT a newbie or somebody with any investment with HPI products:

There IS a chassis twisting issue with the car. I can build and setup a car very well and I have pretty good driving ability. This thing can be twisted in standard form very easily. If you dont sit the car flat with no wheels while doing the top deck up it will be twisted. If you hit it hard while driving it may twist. If you grab it and twist it, it can remain twisted. I heard Eriks comments, but you can twist the chassis out of true and have it remain there.

HOWEVER if you do what Hara has done to his car it removes around 90% of the twisting problem so you can see why he does it. It definately works and the remaining twist should not be noticable on the track.

Erik: I would consider the top deck mod as a running change to the Pro 4.

SchuMi2

iTrader: (34)

He has built it for 4 cell TC gotta love the steering too

AMGRacer

Yes motor removal is a breeze with a ball head 2.5mm wrench.

Yes to the steering rack, no to the slop.

Skill

Lol, you've gotta love the way he's put the motor mount the wrong way round!!

Entropy

I wonder if he's put the diffs in the wrong way too.. the car would only go backwards then...

pucho

That must be the prototype rysing rate magnetic steering rack with the 16.2:1 ratio