86LikesHpi Pro 4
01-11-2005, 09:43 AM
#9632
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
[RANT]
Tweak
First of all, how is this "tweak" being measured?
-MIP Tweak Station?
-X-Acto down the center + Lift method?
-4 corner scales?
-Track feel?
-"eyeball" method?
Second, how often do you maintain your car?
-Did you strip down the car and check that the arms move freely (especially after crashes, aluminum can bend easily i.e. pivot blocks)?
-Have you cleaned or inspected your bearings recently?
-Have you set your droop screws (With a gauge? Included or otherwise)?
-Are the gearbox screw holes loose (in the slightest, and there are 18 of them x 2) or stripped?
-Have you checked your steering for freeness of movement?
-Have you checked the entire steering assembly for freeness of movement?
-Are you using setup tools (camber gauges, ride height gauges, calipers, toe gauges, etc)?
-Do any parts show signs of wear or are visibly worn out?
Original Build-up…
-Did you CA the edges of ALL graphite parts (especially the shock tower edges where they meet the gearbox)?
-Have you balanced your car from left to right with additional weight? (Either a string method or Hudy balancing tools in the existing smaller holes on the chassis bottom side)
-Did you pinch all ball cups until you obtain free movement (Upper links? Steering links? Sway Bar Links?).
-Are your shocks built to the same length?
-Have you set your endpoints of steering for equal throw in both directions?
-Are the steering tie rods set to even lengths? With Calipers? With the “eyeball” method?
-Do you have a method to setting up your car (including the use of setup tools)?
-Did you tap the holes in the graphite parts? Did you tap the holes with screws? Were the screws going in at an off angle (not parallel to the axis of the hole)? Do you tighten the screws with “brute” force, or with finesse?
If you are experiencing a different left to right feel on the track, a half turn or so of droop in the rear can make all of the difference. If your car is on a 4 corner scale setup, you can see that very small turns on the preload collars make a very big difference to the corner weights. If your car is on a MIP type tweak station, for crying out loud adjust the pre-load collars until it evens out (There is no need for them to be equally set all the way around, overall balance is the key).
Tweak is an over used word in R/C…
Definition:
3 : to make small adjustments in or to <tweak the controls>; especially : FINE-TUNE
By definition it points to the end user… You need to find your root problem. If your setup gauges show that something is off, adjust until it is right (Fine Tune the droop, the pre-load collars, the weight distribution, link lengths, etc). If your car feels imbalanced, adjust until it feels balanced, regardless of symmetry (Fine Tune). If your car requires maintenance, put in the wrench time. Simply twisting the chassis in your hands does no good.
If you want to consider the intransitive sense, meaning something more like to pull; then the chassis is bending or straining abnormally. This is most often caused by stripped screw holes or screws that are overly tightened. Both of these can allow more than normal chassis plate movement or create binding points on areas that are supposed to float or move.
[/RANT]
[RANT]
Tweak
First of all, how is this "tweak" being measured?
-MIP Tweak Station?
-X-Acto down the center + Lift method?
-4 corner scales?
-Track feel?
-"eyeball" method?
Second, how often do you maintain your car?
-Did you strip down the car and check that the arms move freely (especially after crashes, aluminum can bend easily i.e. pivot blocks)?
-Have you cleaned or inspected your bearings recently?
-Have you set your droop screws (With a gauge? Included or otherwise)?
-Are the gearbox screw holes loose (in the slightest, and there are 18 of them x 2) or stripped?
-Have you checked your steering for freeness of movement?
-Have you checked the entire steering assembly for freeness of movement?
-Are you using setup tools (camber gauges, ride height gauges, calipers, toe gauges, etc)?
-Do any parts show signs of wear or are visibly worn out?
Original Build-up…
-Did you CA the edges of ALL graphite parts (especially the shock tower edges where they meet the gearbox)?
-Have you balanced your car from left to right with additional weight? (Either a string method or Hudy balancing tools in the existing smaller holes on the chassis bottom side)
-Did you pinch all ball cups until you obtain free movement (Upper links? Steering links? Sway Bar Links?).
-Are your shocks built to the same length?
-Have you set your endpoints of steering for equal throw in both directions?
-Are the steering tie rods set to even lengths? With Calipers? With the “eyeball” method?
-Do you have a method to setting up your car (including the use of setup tools)?
-Did you tap the holes in the graphite parts? Did you tap the holes with screws? Were the screws going in at an off angle (not parallel to the axis of the hole)? Do you tighten the screws with “brute” force, or with finesse?
If you are experiencing a different left to right feel on the track, a half turn or so of droop in the rear can make all of the difference. If your car is on a 4 corner scale setup, you can see that very small turns on the preload collars make a very big difference to the corner weights. If your car is on a MIP type tweak station, for crying out loud adjust the pre-load collars until it evens out (There is no need for them to be equally set all the way around, overall balance is the key).
Tweak is an over used word in R/C…
Definition:
3 : to make small adjustments in or to <tweak the controls>; especially : FINE-TUNE
By definition it points to the end user… You need to find your root problem. If your setup gauges show that something is off, adjust until it is right (Fine Tune the droop, the pre-load collars, the weight distribution, link lengths, etc). If your car feels imbalanced, adjust until it feels balanced, regardless of symmetry (Fine Tune). If your car requires maintenance, put in the wrench time. Simply twisting the chassis in your hands does no good.
If you want to consider the intransitive sense, meaning something more like to pull; then the chassis is bending or straining abnormally. This is most often caused by stripped screw holes or screws that are overly tightened. Both of these can allow more than normal chassis plate movement or create binding points on areas that are supposed to float or move.
[/RANT]
However, I want to ask this....I am uisng the MIP tweak station and see my front has a little tweak on 1 side, to make the front balanced, like you mentioned, I coiled down the left coilover 1 extra round then coiled UP the right coilover 1 extra round....and THAT, made my front balanced...
But....the ride height of the front is differnet left and right....Is that something important? Or there is no perfect solution, I gain something but lose something deal...?
Still newbie in electric racing....need a lot of help, thanks Erick.
01-11-2005, 09:49 AM
#9633
Originally posted by coastaltony
Erik, REVEREND!
Any idea when HPI in the USA will have a spool and 2mm chassis available?
Erik, REVEREND!
Any idea when HPI in the USA will have a spool and 2mm chassis available?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFL7&P=0
Solid front diff....SPOOL
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...68&FVPROFIL=++
01-11-2005, 12:31 PM
#9634
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Setting the tweak with the MIP tweak station will ensure that you have equal pressure on the front and rear tires from left to right. Yes, your ride height may be a little off but thats because you're car's not equally balance from left to right. Adding some preload on one side and taking it away on the other side will equalize the weight on each tire.
01-11-2005, 01:52 PM
#9636
Originally posted by coastaltony
Does HPI put out a carbon fibre main shaft? Part number?
Does HPI put out a carbon fibre main shaft? Part number?
01-11-2005, 06:02 PM
#9640
Tech Addict
yes!!! very much appreciated!!!!!!
01-11-2005, 06:42 PM
#9641
my tweak is measure at the front of the chassis at the widest part. all i do is place the chassis on a peice of glass with the wheels off.
I tighten all screws on the top deck and chassis is perfectly flat, however if i twist the chassis with the smallest amount of effort, the chassis will hold the twist, and hence the tweak.
the car is brand new i have triple checked all parts, so it cant be that, but two other guys one a multiple national champ have the same problem,
i have a feeling it is the machineing of the top deck. because i can take the top deck off the car and it wont hold the tweak. but as soon as the top deck is screwed on.......
i have tryed to loosen individual screws to see if it is any particular screw that is causing it, all as i worked out that it is in the rear 6 screws.
any other suggestions??
I tighten all screws on the top deck and chassis is perfectly flat, however if i twist the chassis with the smallest amount of effort, the chassis will hold the twist, and hence the tweak.
the car is brand new i have triple checked all parts, so it cant be that, but two other guys one a multiple national champ have the same problem,
i have a feeling it is the machineing of the top deck. because i can take the top deck off the car and it wont hold the tweak. but as soon as the top deck is screwed on.......
i have tryed to loosen individual screws to see if it is any particular screw that is causing it, all as i worked out that it is in the rear 6 screws.
any other suggestions??
01-11-2005, 08:35 PM
#9645
Tech Regular
I thought that I read some were about changing to asc diff parts?What is changed do you just change all the parts (diff screw t nut spring thrust washers balls ect ect to asc) or is there something else that I need to change
Thanks
Thanks