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Old 12-19-2004, 10:02 AM   #9301
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You mention that the kit has the updated gears but does it also have the one-way backing plate? If not then I would suggest adding this.
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Old 12-19-2004, 01:07 PM   #9302
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Eric, i have a simple question to you.

That earlier Pro4 bewelgear set problem.

Is it possible to make them more durable materials like delrin or something else... (like AE does them later versions) ?

Thanks
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Old 12-19-2004, 01:18 PM   #9303
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me and my friends put them in hot water and left overnight to cool it makes them more durable, appears tohave worked as we've had know more problems

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Old 12-19-2004, 02:07 PM   #9304
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Trinity2, I also think it'd be a good idea to make some bevel gears out of delrin, I would imagine they'll be much heavier duty than the standard gears and I'm suprised no one has brought any out yet...
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Old 12-19-2004, 09:30 PM   #9305
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Just bought a pro 4 on ebay will have in a few days need a setup
for out door asphalt med bite with front diff on tight track 110 foot straight

Thanks
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Old 12-20-2004, 07:28 AM   #9306
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Thad Garner's carpet setup showes Trinity Purple and Iris Green as the springs. Does anyone know what these are rated at?

Thanks
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Old 12-20-2004, 09:38 AM   #9307
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Quote:
Originally posted by StewartFan20
Thad Garner's carpet setup showes Trinity Purple and Iris Green as the springs. Does anyone know what these are rated at?

Thanks
Trinity Purple = 30lb. / gf/mm 535
IRS (Opaque) Green = 20.5 / gf/mm 366
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Old 12-20-2004, 09:56 AM   #9308
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I've spent some time looking for the Trinity and IRS (it's not "Iris" as shown on the setup sheet) spring ratings but can't find them through Google yet.
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:17 AM   #9309
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frank McKinney
I've spent some time looking for the Trinity and IRS (it's not "Iris" as shown on the setup sheet) spring ratings but can't find them through Google yet.
http://teamirsrc.com/shock.html

as for trinity someone else will have to hel p you
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:44 AM   #9310
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robk: The up travel limiting is similar to droop, but for the opposite end of travel (bump/ compression/ up travel, whatever the R/C jargon becomes). So, you’re controlling how far the arms travel up. So you can either have them travel farther, which takes longer (if the relative arm/ shock speed is the same). Alternatively, you can adjust for less travel, which if the shock/ arm moves at the same speed will take less time and feel more direct. Also, just like droop it can help control weight transfer to a degree, or keep the car from rolling so far it drags on the carpet. So you can run a different style setup and then use the bump stops to keep the car from rolling so far that it drags the edges but at the same time reap the benefit of the mechanical grip gained from getting more roll. Just like droop, tune to taste.

JohnB: The rear inner camber link positions for the Andy Moore Cleveland setup should be the #1 (inner most hole).

RCknight: For the motor installation and removal, we recommend a 2.5mm ball end driver. The MIP/ Thorp 2.5mm ball end is also about 60mm in length.

sportracer: the spacers limit physical throw like Kenneth Tan mentioned. This is to keep CVD’s from operating at extreme angles (read makes them less likely to bend or break). There is a running change that adds plastic there to correct it.

Carbon_Fibre3: The inboard toe generally affects the aggressiveness of the steering, especially mid corner. It should be set independently of the wheel toe settings. Generally, the higher the front inboard toe, the more aggressive turn in will be, however it also depends on your steering plate position and caster blocks (c- hubs) greatly.

coolrcdad: At some point, the gears are going to break no matter the shimming if a hard hit is taken up front. A tighter mesh will help protect the gear. The other thing is to study the crash and figure out where it is happening. If the car is jumping off dots, make sure you get your son to let off the throttle before landing. If it’s from board taps or corner hits, there’s not much left to do other than a modified full width front bumper (search for “bumper mod” in posts by me).

Trinity2: We will not be making Delrin bevel gears. The revised kit gears, with backing plate, are what we offer. Anything stronger will transmit the crash energy to other drive train parts (CVD’s, One-ways, drive cups, etc) that are all more expensive than gears.
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Old 12-20-2004, 03:34 PM   #9311
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hi just run my second pro4 on friday but have only got round to checking what made me quit that evening.

what has happend ive only just run my second pro4 once and the cvd bone where the pin goes through has totally ripped out all the car has been set up as per kit appart from ceramic diff balls.

i didnt even crash that night although i was very fast keeping up with the top guys.

what can i do about this problem im only 16 have no job as still doing gcse and my dads as tight as anyhting will i have to contact hpi about this and see wat they can doo.

plz help
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Old 12-20-2004, 03:55 PM   #9312
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro4racer
hi just run my second pro4 on friday but have only got round to checking what made me quit that evening.

what has happend ive only just run my second pro4 once and the cvd bone where the pin goes through has totally ripped out all the car has been set up as per kit appart from ceramic diff balls.

i didnt even crash that night although i was very fast keeping up with the top guys.

what can i do about this problem im only 16 have no job as still doing gcse and my dads as tight as anyhting will i have to contact hpi about this and see wat they can doo.

plz help
Never heard of that problem before

you could drop them a line there very helpful, but i think you'll be purchasing new parts your self this time.... Are you sure you never hit anything and that the grub screws were lock-tighted in place and couldn't/didn't come loose ??
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Old 12-20-2004, 04:00 PM   #9313
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Erik, thanks for the answer. It's so nice to have the factory helping the little guys
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Old 12-20-2004, 05:33 PM   #9314
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Thanks Erik, when will the new parts be out
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Old 12-20-2004, 09:40 PM   #9315
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Do you mean the pin that joints the CVD bone and the axle ? If it is, the set screw which tightens the pin is loose. The loosen pin will make the hole on the aluminum CVD bone crack. It could happen if your car bounced off the carpet/ground, and you did not ease the throttle. When the wheels touched the floor again, the difference between the torque from the transmission and wheel was so high to cause CVD or the outdrive failure.

Last edited by raceblast; 12-20-2004 at 09:46 PM.
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