JohnB

iTrader: (1)

No problem. I'm still playing with them. I always ran #5 and 60 wt. in front and #3 and 50 wt. in the rear. Not 100% sure about the new setting yet. Seems the best with the setup changes.
Let us know what you come up with.

take care
john

Just had a thought. If I remember right, your running stock aren't you? I'm running mod. Not sure if that will make a difference or not. You probably want a little stiffer dampening.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, have any of you used the Square input shafts for the pro 4? I just got a set and noticed that the shimming is waaaaay different than the kit shafts. I was able to back off the mesh up front, but I'm not happy with the rear input shaft. Any suggestions? I think RCZ uses these, but I could be wrong.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Gary....I have one in my car. Just play with the number of shims until you get it to feel free. I think I might only have 2 of the suggested 3 shims or 1 instead of 2 but I know that I ended up with one less then what it shows in the little picture that comes with it. Unless you can read chicken tracks(joke) Im not sure what else to tell you. It takes some time to fool around with. I took the rear gear box off and played with it until I got it to what I liked.

Chrisgt2

iTrader: (12)

Well, I ditched the TC4 already......finally went for the car I have had my eye on since before its release....the Pro 4 with BMI kit

Very anxious to race it Sunday and will post any setups that work really well for me as I tune it in

I got those PMs Rob.....Thanks will keep in touch

Vogan

aka "Voganator" "Voganski"

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

K, that's pretty much what I thought Kevin. I'll play around with it then. I may end up taking out one of the purple spacers and using smaller shims just so I can fine tune it better

Thad Garner

"You have chosen,…wisely."
-Guardian Knight

Good luck with the new car.

tcdrvr

Does anyone know if HPI will have the new arms available in the US soon? Also on the BMI chassis set should I do the upper deck mod or not? Any help would be appreciated.

floodo1

what is the diff tween new arms and old arms?





i would suggest the upper deck mod, because it isnt going to hurt anything, and it gaurantees that you wont have a tweak problem.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

the new arms are made of a different material making them more flexible... this is perfect for outdoor asphalt racing..

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

yes... I have them on my car... you'll have to play around with the different spacers and shims until it feels free...

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

does HPI or somebody make a very short stub (2inch) hex driver to get the motor screws out?

How is it getting the motor out?

Can you reach the screws from the rearend?

Removing the diff covers, is it as easy as a TC4?

Skill

A 2.5mm ball driver is best for getting the motor screws in and out. The screws are not impossible to get at with a normal driver but are quite awkward. I think Hudy make a 60mm 2.5mm driver.

To remove the diff covers you need to take more or less the whole top deck off, then 2 other screws, pop the top links off and remove the nut from the shocks. The process is a little long-winded, but it doesn't really take that long to do.

pro4racer

hi

my steering on my pro4 has so much slop when i move the wheels from side 2 side i know i have a crap servo but when i hold the servo arm from moving it still has so much slop

how can i prevent this and make it slop freeeeeeee.

thanks

Skill

My car also seems to have a lot of play in the steering, it seems to be coming from the steering plate and the bearings, I wonder if there is any way to stop this??

Entropy

Try different brands of ball cups. Some brands are tighter (not binding) than others, this will probably be the biggest source of the slop.

A little slop is good though...