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Old 12-16-2004, 04:27 PM   #9256
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Quote:
Originally posted by robk
Here's another question for Erik S., or maybe Thad:

i saw his car at Cleveland, and it did look smooth, effortless to drive and fast. I'm just trying to get at what the thought behind this is, so i can add it into my thinking when I'm at the track.

Thanks
Rob, I'm not Erik or Thad, but when I ran this setup the last race my car had more corner speed than it's ever had, or more than any car I've driven for that matter. Even a guy watch at the track said he hasn't seen a car with that much corner speed. It just stays very flat and changes direction with no effort or hesitation.
Like I said before the roll center and shock up limiters was the biggest change from my previous setup. It makes a huge difference.
And yes, the car was SOOOOOOOO easy to drive. It should be illigal

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Old 12-16-2004, 04:29 PM   #9257
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For the guys running Andy's set up from Cleveland. What number piston are you using in the front and rear?
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Old 12-16-2004, 05:58 PM   #9258
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Thank you for the help, gentlemen!
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Old 12-16-2004, 06:58 PM   #9259
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Originally posted by g4t2
Hi guys, after a while of running a TRF415, I've decided to try a pro 4. should be ordering it in the next couple of days, but have a few Q's I hope you can help me with. Firstly, I'm ordering the "1.1" kit, what does this mean? I'm also ordering a front diff set, but what other parts are worthwhile buying? I will be running it on carpet with rubber tyres. I'm on a bit of a budget and therefore am not too bothered about 'bling' purple buts, just stuff which actually make a difference to performance. thanks in advance to any help.
For carpet the best hopups are the 3mm chassis, BRP TC3 front bumper, ream out the gear box holes(see previous pages) for tweak free chassis. I can't think of anything esle that is reasonably priced.
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Old 12-16-2004, 07:51 PM   #9260
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For carpet the best hopups are the 3mm chassis, BRP TC3 front bumper, ream out the gear box holes(see previous pages) for tweak free chassis. I can't think of anything esle that is reasonably priced.
What are you reaming out? I don't think anything is binding on my car....could you be a little more specific?
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Old 12-16-2004, 07:55 PM   #9261
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scroll back about 10 pages. there are diagrams of what to do. basically, you need to do is ream out the holes of the topdeck to the gearbox where the longer screws are. Then replace them with button head screws that don't make contact w/ the upper deck.

do a search for upper deck mod
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Old 12-16-2004, 07:56 PM   #9262
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here's my upper deck
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Old 12-16-2004, 07:58 PM   #9263
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delete
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Old 12-16-2004, 10:34 PM   #9264
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when these lads refer to teflon washers on up travel limiting..
are they referring to the same teflon washers as used in shock construction (not literally instead of puttin them in the shock .. but as well as )??
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Old 12-17-2004, 07:15 AM   #9265
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
scroll back about 10 pages. there are diagrams of what to do. basically, you need to do is ream out the holes of the topdeck to the gearbox where the longer screws are. Then replace them with button head screws that don't make contact w/ the upper deck.

do a search for upper deck mod
I miss understood you post. I thought your were talking about reamming out the gearbox so that the bearings would not bind.
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:04 AM   #9266
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Carbon_Fibre3,

Yes, they are the same washers as what guides the shock shafts. You can buy them in a package with the snap rings. Dont forget to install the o-ring on top of the washers as well to cushion the bottom of the shock if you clip a dot or something like that.
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:09 AM   #9267
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With the 3mm chassis and upper deck I see no need to ream out the holes on the upper deck to eliminate tweak. I've been running my PRP chassis kit for quite a while not and I've not had it tweak at all, the stock chassis and top deck however did tweak sometimes.
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Old 12-17-2004, 03:25 PM   #9268
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kevin K
For the guys running Andy's set up from Cleveland. What number piston are you using in the front and rear?
#4 front w/ 70 wt. and #2 rear w/ 50 wt.. the rear feels a little soft, I might bump that up to 60 wt. next time out.
The setup up sheet says 3 hole piston in front but that's a .8mm I don't think I'd run 70 wt. oil with the 3 hole anyway. I tried 60wt. oil with the 3 hole and it was really stiff. Our track is a little to bumpy for it anyways, Cleveland was probably a lot smoother.

take care
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Old 12-17-2004, 03:29 PM   #9269
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Default Moore's Cleveland setup sheet.

Oh yea, the sheet doesn't show rear camber link location. I'd like to know where he was running his. I'm running #2 inner mount and #2 on the hub. I like the feel of the turn in with that combination.
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Old 12-17-2004, 04:14 PM   #9270
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Thanks JohnB.....I know that the pistons that he showed on the set up sheet were drilled but I wanted to know what normal pistons worked. Thanks for the input.
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