tc3stocker

TC4 or Pro 4, the Pro 4 is starting to win me over, I have to have a shaft car to go with all the Losi's, just to keep it balanced, what do yall think

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

plastic vs carbon fiber?... broken parts or durability?
snail vs rabbit?
pro4 is your best choice....

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

got it from RcModel in HK...shipping was only a few dollars..
For $20.00 you get the complete 4 plates... front & rear...




http://www.powers-international.com/...xcel/eh001.htm

Erik Shauver

The simplest way would be to glue a 0.2mm washer (well 0.2mm total after gluing) to the zero of a droop guage/ block set. Alternatively, set the droop to zero and the give the screw a 1/8th turn or so, as even as possible per side.

Edit: However, I want to double check with Andy... as most carpet/ foam tire droop is measured over ride height... whereas rubber tire guys may do it from the guage only since the tires stay roughly the same throughout their life.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Erik....or anyone else for that matter what are the hole sizes in relation to the number on the Stock shock pistions.....IE....#1 is a 1.5mm hole.....I dont know if that is correct but I want to know if there is a way to get that information. Thanks

JohnB

iTrader: (1)

Here is what I have on file:

HPI pistons
#1 =1.3mm holes
#2=1.2mm
#3=1.1mm,
#4= 1.0mm,
#5=0.8mm(3 holes)

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

thanks thats what I was looking for....

S15Racer

Getting back into racing after about a 2 month hiatus and found a problem. I had taken my car out to the hs parking lot and ran round with my firend tamiya and went colided a few times, not the point. The point is that some how I managed to break the aluminum servo saver shaft again! The last time I broke it was the last time I raced! And it broke in the exact same place to, about 5-7 threads up from the bottom. I built and adjusted the servo saver to factory specs so what could be causing this? Is it just something that happens in really hard collisions or what?

one other quick question, whats the best way to disassemble the ball bearings on the pro 4 to clean them? I've just been prying on the shields but this bends them slightly and I cant figure out how to get those little snap rings out to allow the shields to come out untouched.

ChadCapece

I've never heard of that before. Did your car jump into that air and land on the bottom of the chassis?

robk

iTrader: (22)

Remove the sheilds with a sharp exacto knife. The end of the ring should look like this:

___ ___
___\ \___

You should be able to catch one of the pointy parts of the ring and pry it out. It may take a few tries.

Mossie

I dont know if this is what was asked but I dont know how to get the bearings out of the knuckles and hubs I feel im going to damage them if I force them out. How do people get them out?

Cheers,

Mossie

ChadCapece

Large flat head screwdriver. It needs to be wide enough to span the gap between one inner race to the other.

loosenut

Hey guys is version 1.1 the lastest? Also is there a standard kit w/o titanium screws and another kit w/ titanium screws? The reason I ask is because I was goign to order a pro4 from champs jap. but the dude emailed me with two prices one w/o ti screws and one with? Confused me..cause I thought HPI only had a kit that comes with everything?

G

loosenut

Also...are their any other things I should order along with the kit? Any optional upgrades that are necessary?

g

Pro4

iTrader: (1)

I didn't think any of the pro4 kits came with titanium screws