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Old 12-06-2004, 06:58 AM   #9076
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Originally posted by Trinity2
I did that same though, because one of my friend told at he normally use 2* caster in carpet and 4* in asphalt track

Maybe i`ll try that next weekend clubrace.
That sounds a little wrong. We usually use more caster on carpet and less on asphalt. More caster will generally give more steering at speed. I run 6 on carpet all the time.
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:55 AM   #9077
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Has anyone played with changing the front C-hubs yet? just wondering what you've done and what you found.
rc...what exactly are you asking? if we have experimented going up and down in castor degrees?


I have mostly tried to run 6 on bigger tracks and 4 on tighter ones...

robk might have some good insight....he experimented with all the hubs .... 0-6deg ... all in the same day. robk...does that sound right...i thought i remember you were testing that out one day.
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:56 AM   #9078
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Default Re: Re: Hara Twister 2 ESC?

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Originally posted by Trinity2
Hey Vegetto

Rcmodel. hk sell them.... and price is 215$
man there has to be someplace cheaper than that!

anyone have any ideas?

in the meantime im gonna search around a bit and try to find it cheaper.
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Old 12-06-2004, 09:01 AM   #9079
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Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
Has anyone played with changing the front C-hubs yet? just wondering what you've done and what you found.
Yes

At SoCal, we will typically use 2 c-hubs, unless the layout changes dramatically. For me the difference between the 2 and the 4 is fairly significant. When I use 2, initial turn in is very aggressive, with no stability loss in the rear, mid corner feels neutral, and then exit is more calm. When I go up to 4, the car loses the initial turn in aggressiveness and precision, but on exit it "frees" up the car to the point where the rear will want to step out. So, I almost always end up using the 2 and then free up the rear to taste on exit with either, springs, anti-squat to control the weight transfer, chassis rake, reduced rear toe in, less wing (cut it), or all of the above. This gives me the great turn in I'm looking for and allows my not so linear throttle finger to use more throttle on exit.
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Old 12-06-2004, 09:06 AM   #9080
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Anyone know the srping rates of the kit springs in .lbs rating?

I am trying to compare HPI with Xray springs...

Thanks
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Old 12-06-2004, 09:08 AM   #9081
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Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer
Anyone know the srping rates of the kit springs in .lbs rating?

I am trying to compare HPI with Xray springs...

Thanks
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...r_Outlined.jpg
The numbers in brackets are lb/in
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Old 12-06-2004, 09:09 AM   #9082
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my not so linear throttle finger to use more throttle on exit.
Are you saying you use a micro-switch for a speedo? You know, all on/all off? LOL

Gold springs are 19lbs, silvers 16.90lbs
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Old 12-06-2004, 01:02 PM   #9083
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X2...

Thanks..
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Old 12-06-2004, 01:46 PM   #9084
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Default Finally a pro4 thread

Hello to all pro4 owners I currently have three of them & I have one ? does anyone know where can I get some steel or aluminum outdrives. To many times on a hit my dogbone will pop out & it hurts big time @ trophy races so be careful if you put on the delrin version they pop out even quicker
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Old 12-06-2004, 02:52 PM   #9085
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Default Re: Finally a pro4 thread

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Originally posted by 710baby
Hello to all pro4 owners I currently have three of them & I have one ? does anyone know where can I get some steel or aluminum outdrives. To many times on a hit my dogbone will pop out & it hurts big time @ trophy races so be careful if you put on the delrin version they pop out even quicker
Welcome aboard

Dogbones popping out.........The Pro4 has cvd's for that reason however, the do bend because they are aluminum.
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Old 12-06-2004, 04:25 PM   #9086
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Personally, I've found that less crashing results in less cvd bending. OR you can buy a full set of MIP shiny CVDs for the TC3 Problem solved.

Last edited by Pro4Capece; 12-06-2004 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 12-06-2004, 06:35 PM   #9087
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"robk might have some good insight....he experimented with all the hubs .... 0-6deg ... all in the same day. robk...does that sound right...i thought i remember you were testing that out one day."

Yeah, this was due to some wisdom from Mark Adams from Associated. He mentioned to KevinK that they used 0* or 2* hubs a majority of the time in stock motor on carpet. It was a bit of a shock to me as the conventional wisdom was to run 6* almost everywhere. They also ran antidive with the small amounts of caster. I checked out some setups on AE's site and sure enough it was right there in black and white.

Anyway, I had ran the Halloween Classic in Ohio, and they had a "bent" 180 at the end of the straight that was hard to be consistent with. 6* caster gave the car crazy high speed steering going into the turn. I guess the theory on the TC3 cars was that the small amounts of caster would mellow a stock motor car out under the brakes, but still let it have steering in the infield.

So I went to Trackside in WI to test this out.
0* w/ .5mm antidive= no steering, just turn in
2* w/.5mm antidive only slightly more steering
4* w/.5-- that was very good, without being too edgy.

I wound up sticking with 4* mostly. I want to try some more things again, since i changed my car a bit. I wouldn't take this as gospel, since your caster tends to work with the hinge pin mount heights in determining your driving feel (see below). i think that 0 and 2* worked with the TC3 due to the set heights on the suspension mounts. I understand the front mounts are supposed to be lower than the rears. This jives with what I found at the track, --higher front roll center likes more caster.

One thing I noticed is that the Kevin K carpet setup uses the higher (2mm) front roll center to turn the car in , and the 6* of caster gets you out if the turn. The down side is that the car can get hard to drive in extreme high speed to low speed transistions esp. in high traction.
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:29 PM   #9088
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Default Re: Re: Finally a pro4 thread

Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Welcome aboard

Dogbones popping out.........The Pro4 has cvd's for that reason however, the do bend because they are aluminum.
I have not bend any CVD'S but the issue is they pop out from the outdrive especially alot when you are using the Delrin they are to flexible I am trying to find out if there is anything available similar to the tc3 aluminum outdrive.
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:36 PM   #9089
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Originally posted by Pro4Capece
Personally, I've found that less crashing results in less cvd bending. OR you can buy a full set of MIP shiny CVDs for the TC3 Problem solved.
It is not a crashing problem but get hacked is the problem especially in major roar region1 events. I am wondering if the TC3 aluminun outdrives would work on the pro4. I was thinking about the MIP cvds as a backup set
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:39 PM   #9090
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I have the MIP shiny TC3 ones on the front right now just for the durability factor and they work great.
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