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Old 11-11-2004, 01:59 PM   #8566
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sweet, thanks for the help!!
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Old 11-12-2004, 02:20 AM   #8567
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Default Hara setup

Does anyone have haras setup for the recent worlds? Also does anyone have the spring rates for the new hpi springs as in lbs?

Thanks guys!

Cheers,

Mossie
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Old 11-12-2004, 03:05 AM   #8568
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Default Re: Hara setup

Quote:
Originally posted by Mossie
Does anyone have haras setup for the recent worlds? Also does anyone have the spring rates for the new hpi springs as in lbs?

Thanks guys!

Cheers,

Mossie
I can't give u fish but i can teach ya howta

http://www.onlineconversion.com/force.htm

i did most of my own conversions here for spring rates.
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Old 11-12-2004, 03:41 AM   #8569
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comeon i want a fish. Nah thanks mate!

Cheers,

Mossie
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Old 11-12-2004, 03:59 AM   #8570
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For a spring chart check out this link: http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...r_Outlined.jpg
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Old 11-12-2004, 05:08 AM   #8571
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Any setup tips for running 3mm lower chassis?
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Old 11-12-2004, 05:28 AM   #8572
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Talking TEAM HPI

G-Day guys, 2 months ago I bought the PRO 4 to be able run two cars at my local track, My other being a PRO 3. When I first bought the pro 3 it was a flexible piece of junk>>after all the HPI, HB, Hara up grades it was a Dream car _ Perfect. Hoping that the Pro 4 would be better and having more experience with shaft drive I was very disapointed- Rip off piece of junk,- I have tried every thing- even gave it to fellow competitors and they have had simular probs - they are good cars but, considering the testing they claimed to have done I'll be buying another Pro 3
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Old 11-12-2004, 05:58 AM   #8573
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Jack2

Are you asking for help?

Or are you just telling everyone that, despite their overwhelming success with the car, they bought a "Rip off piece of junk?"

Is there a point to your post?
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Old 11-12-2004, 06:23 AM   #8574
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Talking Thanks

Thanks man , I wish I had help before I got rid of it.
Nah , A couple of guys have had success with the PRO4 at my club but It does seem to need alot of work, Its not really junk I just lost it with it. It's HPI so its allways going to be good but I just couldn't seem to find a set up that suited me{ AT MY CLUB WE HAVE A STRANGE SURFACE WHICH MAKES LIFE REALLY HARD} Its a kind of ashfalt but ruff but smooth and slippy but grippy it sucks really. The PRO4 I am sure works for U guys great but not for me. It also brought me bad luck, - rocks in spur gear, old staple shorted out brand new Novak ESC and crisped brand new Orion V2 and dammaged New GP3300 zapped & Matched

MI2's , Xrays and pro3's seem to work for me, I'll stick with them
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Old 11-12-2004, 06:27 AM   #8575
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The only things I changed on my Pro 4 was to add tobee aluminum input shafts, and change pivot blocks to 2.5 in the rear, and 1.5 in the front. I am a great driver, but last week I let one of our local 100% (un-named) team sponsored driver run it in qualifing he smoked nine other racers, racing with there own, well tested cars.
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:20 AM   #8576
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punkboy: In addition to what Rookie Solara has reposted, you can follow a simple break-in procedure to make sure all the moving parts seat securely. 1.) During diff assembly, make sure you compressed the spring fully at least 4 or 5 times. If not, tear it down, do it, and then rebuild. 2.) After the car is fully ready to run, put the car on a stand or somehow elevate the tires so they can move freely. 3.) Hold the left rear tire and gradually feed in some throttle. Do this for 5~10 seconds. Do NOT use more than 1/8th throttle. If done improperly, or if built incorrectly, you will melt or damage your parts! 4.) Repeat step 3, but this time holding the right rear. 5.) Now that the moving parts have seated, turn a rear wheel to check for smoothness of diff action. 6.) To check the tightness of the diff, hold the left rear tire with your palm, then hold the spur with your thumb and index finger. 7.) Now, try to rotate the right rear tire. If it slips (rotates at all), your diff is too loose and needs to be tightened. Caution: if you try to use too much force on a properly tightened diff, you can cause the bevel gears to jump teeth (you will hear a popping noise, scary, but 9 times out of 10 causing no damage). Note: You can set your diff looser than this, but this is always a good starting point and you can then tune to taste. If your diff is too loose, you will melt and/ or break parts. 8). If using a front differential, repeat with the front diff. Other people may have other techniques, but this is one that is relatively simple and works for most. If you don’t want to use a race motor for this, feel free to substitute an older practice motor, or even better, an old stocker on something like a Turbo 35 or Quantum on the break-in setting, set to very low voltage.

Jack2: Your argument that the car is a “Rip off piece of junk” seems a little extreme given that the only problems you stated deal with your racing surface (staples and gravel). If you have any genuine issues with the car, you will need to contact customer service for your area. While a frustrating outing, or series of outings, can drive you nuts; it hardly seems reasonable to go bash a car or manufacturer without pointing out any specifics due to the car. We’re all here to help if you need it.

Leekayliang: Spend the extra time filing down the battery slots to ensure your batteries are as low as possible (but not so low they drag). Also, you will need to adjust your pivot block heights and camber link spacer stacks down by 0.5mm compared to stock (especially if you set all of your settings with a certain ride height). Also, if you’re running at a track that governs weight limits, don’t forget to recheck your weight and take some off.

cartmen34: We are currently testing the new parts to make sure they hold their form and don’t bind. The best thing to do for now is file the steering block down, or use a lighter, heat up the c-hub and open it up to suit. The “new” parts will be a running change. Previous post on the c-hubs.

Just a slight correction to what zombies posted: the V1.1 changes include the new bevel gears, more shims, and the gear brace for the one-way. The c-hubs are a running change that is almost complete.

-E
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:37 AM   #8577
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Quote:
Originally posted by leekayliang
Any setup tips for running 3mm lower chassis?
I installed one on my car and ran it for the first time Tuesday and will be running it tomorrow too. I like it a lot, especially when combined with the 2.5mm upperdeck. The car felt more planted than it ever had with the stock pieces. With the stock chassis the car was always right on the line of spinning out and I had to really be on top of things to drive it fast. Not so with the new chassis.

Hey Erik, would 2 shot axle bearings on the left front make the car handle inconsistently I was prepping the car last night and found the problem. The one-way couldn't have had consistent action with that going on. Going to have to hit the LHS this afternoon.
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:46 AM   #8578
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RC Driver Gary: That might throws things off a bit
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:51 AM   #8579
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Hehehe, yeah. I was surprised that things spun as free as it did with those in there. Guess I need to keep an eye on those more. And for those curious, those were the kit and not the smaller bearings. I know people were worried about the new ones and I didn't want people to thing those were the problem.

Just want to verify something too. in the rear end, shimming the front pivot block up with help the car rotate better (pro-squat), correct? Or another way to think of it, front lower, more traction on that end, rear lower less traction on that end, correct?
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:52 AM   #8580
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