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Old 11-08-2004, 11:44 AM   #8476
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Most likely a Ferrite magnet without the casing.
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Old 11-08-2004, 12:41 PM   #8477
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Most likely a Ferrite magnet without the casing.
Well I have a friend who went to japan and came across a funny product by an unheard of brand, SEO Tuned.

This product looks just like an small piece of bandage (very expensive bandage ). And it is supposed to be wrapped around motor -ve wire and battery +ve wire. And after we did that, Magic happens.......when we drive the motor, the arcing reduced by half.

I don't know if it's the same thing on Hara's car or just something to cool the wires as what some website says.
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Old 11-08-2004, 12:57 PM   #8478
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We have to have something to COOL the wire down now...? WOw....when are these options going to stop? LOL
Anyhow......can someone tell me where can we get those COLD AIR INTAKE scoop that everyone at the worlds are running? You know, that clear plastic thingy that wil ram the cold air toward the motor........Hara has it, Surikarn, Easton, even Masami has it....(I think it is a outdoor thing...)......all except belt car and TC4s.
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Last edited by Rookie Solara; 11-08-2004 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 11-08-2004, 01:00 PM   #8479
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
We have to have something to COOL the wire down now...? WOw....when are these options going to stop? LOL
Anyhow......can someone tell me where can we get those COLD AIR INTAKE scoop that everyone at the worlds are running? You know, that clear plastic thingy that wil ram the cold air toward the motor........Hara has it, even Masami has it....(I think it is a outdoor thing...)
ebay for $3.00
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Old 11-08-2004, 01:04 PM   #8480
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
ebay for $3.00
Cool..........that is probably the cheapest HARA or WORLDS drivers option parts that I can find (beside stickers)....LOL
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Old 11-08-2004, 01:20 PM   #8481
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
We have to have something to COOL the wire down now...? WOw....when are these options going to stop? LOL
Anyhow......can someone tell me where can we get those COLD AIR INTAKE scoop that everyone at the worlds are running? You know, that clear plastic thingy that wil ram the cold air toward the motor........Hara has it, Surikarn, Easton, even Masami has it....(I think it is a outdoor thing...)......all except belt car and TC4s.
It doesn't need to draw cool air to cool the motor.
(In simple term) The air scope (notice the shape) can increase convection (All the thermodynamics and heat transfer S*@T, I will not go into that) thus cooling the motor.......
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Old 11-08-2004, 01:25 PM   #8482
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I believe not many USA drivers will go buy a Jap RC Mag.
But in one of the issue, they talked about all the different options to cool the motor/batt/esc....
And they setup an experiment to test the diference.

Below is a link to a website where they translate the data and summary in English.

http://www.imminentrc.com/1.htm
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Old 11-08-2004, 01:30 PM   #8483
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Does anyone know what is on Hara's wires? Thad?
I've been wondering that too. I saw another picture of the car, and those whatchamacallits were over the tubes where the wires solder on.

Must be new kickey fast option...
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Old 11-08-2004, 03:25 PM   #8484
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It looks like Blue shop towles wraped around the wires. Maybe they were soaked with water and then slid over where they solder on to the motor so they keep the leads from getting so hot they un-solder. Just a guess.....his car wasnt the only car that had them on them.
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Old 11-08-2004, 03:37 PM   #8485
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Just curious, has anyone ever tried running a front 1-way and solid rear in an electric? I really like the way both my 1/8th and TC handle with the setup, but ive never heard of anyone running and electric TC with that setup??
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Old 11-08-2004, 04:28 PM   #8486
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Default 1/8th vs 1/10th

The reason why most people don't use a one-way with a solid rear diff set-up on their 1/10 cars is because it dosen't perform like a 1/8th scale nitro car. The 1/8th scale car has larger tires in the rear that makes the car very stable and easier to drive then 1/10th cars.
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Old 11-08-2004, 06:24 PM   #8487
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for those who have been running the HPI or Jet aluminum camber link supports for the Pro 4.

does anyone know if there is a difference in thickness between the two?

how does it fit compared to the stock counterpart?

has anyone bent their camber link yet? or how is it holding up?

any help/input would greatly be appreciated!

Thanks!
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Old 11-08-2004, 06:54 PM   #8488
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Default pro 4 on carpet first time

well i ran the pro 4 on carpet i tried the andy moore set up white springs/pink and setup he has, i had my front shock in the outer hole on the a-arm and notice i was scrubbing against my foam tire rim so i shaved some carbon off the front sterring knuckle and still was not getting full turn and wheels lock up, so i check my cvd pins it started to come out so i though that was the problem, i fix it and still had the problem what can be wrong and also i put the woven shaft in i kept hearing ticking noise i check my front diff nothing wrong , im lost and cant find the problem
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Old 11-08-2004, 07:05 PM   #8489
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kevin K
It looks like Blue shop towles wraped around the wires. Maybe they were soaked with water and then slid over where they solder on to the motor so they keep the leads from getting so hot they un-solder. Just a guess.....his car wasnt the only car that had them on them.
I don't know about you guys, but soldering on the wires onto a V2 endbell takes more effort and more often than not, the wires heat up to a point where they become too hot to hold, I'm wondering whether this is just an aid so that you can hold the wires onto the motor long enough to stick without burning your fingers.
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Old 11-08-2004, 07:09 PM   #8490
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Quote:
Originally posted by Entropy
I don't know about you guys, but soldering on the wires onto a V2 endbell takes more effort and more often than not, the wires heat up to a point where they become too hot to hold, I'm wondering whether this is just an aid so that you can hold the wires onto the motor long enough to stick without burning your fingers.

That maybe but why wouldnt they just use pilers like most people do. And it is a real pain in the azz to solder a V2 motor in while its in the car. I think it has something to do with the motors getting so hot that they un-solder from the extreame heat....especially if they have to use brakes.
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