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Old 11-07-2004, 03:27 AM   #8446
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Default Re: easy motor removal

Quote:
Originally posted by sweet'n'sour
Hi guys, i am a new owner of the pro 4 and simply wanting to know if anyone has developed any tricks for easy motor removal

There surely must be an easier way than an allen key...

Cheers
Michael
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Old 11-07-2004, 03:29 AM   #8447
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Thanx alot bro...
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Old 11-07-2004, 03:52 AM   #8448
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Getting a ball-head 2,5mm wrench will help a lot!
It's still not easy, but doable.......
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Old 11-07-2004, 04:41 AM   #8449
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Quote:
Originally posted by Erlend
Getting a ball-head 2,5mm wrench will help a lot!
It's still not easy, but doable.......
Cheers

I have a 2.5 allen driver but its not a ball tip, ill be sure to hunt one down and give it a go.

I am so used to being able to drop the motor out of my x-ray so quickly i thought there must be an easier / quicker way for the pro4 ...

thanks again
Michael
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Old 11-07-2004, 09:24 AM   #8450
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I found that the 2.5mm ball driver is good for tightening the screws and unscrewing them, but to get the screws in initially I prefer to use a normal 2.5mm driver because you can direct the angle of the screw better.
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Old 11-07-2004, 10:08 AM   #8451
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Default ? about ball cups

I just ran my Pro 4m last night for its first race and I noticed that the ball cups became very sloppy. I was wondering what some of you other guys were using. I race at RSJ's. I use to use rpm cups on my Losi car but I don't think they will work on the Pro 4 as the ball studs look way bigger than the losi ones.









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Old 11-07-2004, 11:00 AM   #8452
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I have ran mine with the stock ball cups for a few races, a little slop, they are still fine with me. All ball cups wear after a few races, you might just be used to the tight fit of the RPM cups.
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Old 11-07-2004, 11:01 AM   #8453
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I use purple RPM ball cups. Just pinch them on the socket. They will fit tight and be slop free. They will be a tight fit, unless you do this.
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Old 11-07-2004, 12:28 PM   #8454
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VerOn_Pat

To stop the hex-hub binding when tightening up the wheel just remove the shim from behind the pin going into the hex-hub and put one of these shims each side the plastic spacer between the bearings. This stops the two bearings from binding which is what usally happens. Ive had this on my PRO3 & PRO4.

All I do if I have a bit of play in a ball cup is put a piece of plumbers PTFE tape on top of the ball stud (I fold a square piece twice). This does dont bind the ball cup because PTFE tape is slippery and thin.
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Old 11-07-2004, 01:34 PM   #8455
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Default Re: easy motor removal

Quote:
Originally posted by sweet'n'sour
Hi guys, i am a new owner of the pro 4 and simply wanting to know if anyone has developed any tricks for easy motor removal

There surely must be an easier way than an allen key...

Cheers
Michael
just use a ball driver you can take off the motor screw on an angle i used to do that with my EVO3 looks like its the same process .
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Old 11-07-2004, 06:57 PM   #8456
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Can anybody tell me the part number for steel diff halves?
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Old 11-07-2004, 07:14 PM   #8457
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Quote:
Originally posted by donny
Can anybody tell me the part number for steel diff halves?
I don"t belive there are any for the Pro4 .??
-Dave
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Old 11-07-2004, 07:26 PM   #8458
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The new dif out-drives are delrin
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Old 11-07-2004, 07:35 PM   #8459
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There has to be steel outdrives. There are setups posted with steel outdrives on the car. Check it out.

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/pr...rnercarpet.pdf
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Old 11-07-2004, 07:41 PM   #8460
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Those are professional setups. We won't see steel outdrives for a while. Come to think of it, we haven't even been given our promised aluminium spool
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