Hpi Pro 4
#8446
Re: easy motor removal
Originally posted by sweet'n'sour
Hi guys, i am a new owner of the pro 4 and simply wanting to know if anyone has developed any tricks for easy motor removal
There surely must be an easier way than an allen key...
Cheers
Michael
Hi guys, i am a new owner of the pro 4 and simply wanting to know if anyone has developed any tricks for easy motor removal
There surely must be an easier way than an allen key...
Cheers
Michael
#8447
??
Thanx alot bro...
#8448
Tech Adept
Getting a ball-head 2,5mm wrench will help a lot!
It's still not easy, but doable.......
It's still not easy, but doable.......
#8449
Tech Initiate
Originally posted by Erlend
Getting a ball-head 2,5mm wrench will help a lot!
It's still not easy, but doable.......
Getting a ball-head 2,5mm wrench will help a lot!
It's still not easy, but doable.......
I have a 2.5 allen driver but its not a ball tip, ill be sure to hunt one down and give it a go.
I am so used to being able to drop the motor out of my x-ray so quickly i thought there must be an easier / quicker way for the pro4 ...
thanks again
Michael
#8450
I found that the 2.5mm ball driver is good for tightening the screws and unscrewing them, but to get the screws in initially I prefer to use a normal 2.5mm driver because you can direct the angle of the screw better.
#8451
Tech Adept
? about ball cups
I just ran my Pro 4m last night for its first race and I noticed that the ball cups became very sloppy. I was wondering what some of you other guys were using. I race at RSJ's. I use to use rpm cups on my Losi car but I don't think they will work on the Pro 4 as the ball studs look way bigger than the losi ones.
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#8452
I have ran mine with the stock ball cups for a few races, a little slop, they are still fine with me. All ball cups wear after a few races, you might just be used to the tight fit of the RPM cups.
#8453
I use purple RPM ball cups. Just pinch them on the socket. They will fit tight and be slop free. They will be a tight fit, unless you do this.
#8454
Tech Adept
VerOn_Pat
To stop the hex-hub binding when tightening up the wheel just remove the shim from behind the pin going into the hex-hub and put one of these shims each side the plastic spacer between the bearings. This stops the two bearings from binding which is what usally happens. Ive had this on my PRO3 & PRO4.
All I do if I have a bit of play in a ball cup is put a piece of plumbers PTFE tape on top of the ball stud (I fold a square piece twice). This does dont bind the ball cup because PTFE tape is slippery and thin.
To stop the hex-hub binding when tightening up the wheel just remove the shim from behind the pin going into the hex-hub and put one of these shims each side the plastic spacer between the bearings. This stops the two bearings from binding which is what usally happens. Ive had this on my PRO3 & PRO4.
All I do if I have a bit of play in a ball cup is put a piece of plumbers PTFE tape on top of the ball stud (I fold a square piece twice). This does dont bind the ball cup because PTFE tape is slippery and thin.
#8455
Re: easy motor removal
Originally posted by sweet'n'sour
Hi guys, i am a new owner of the pro 4 and simply wanting to know if anyone has developed any tricks for easy motor removal
There surely must be an easier way than an allen key...
Cheers
Michael
Hi guys, i am a new owner of the pro 4 and simply wanting to know if anyone has developed any tricks for easy motor removal
There surely must be an easier way than an allen key...
Cheers
Michael
#8459
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
There has to be steel outdrives. There are setups posted with steel outdrives on the car. Check it out.
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/pr...rnercarpet.pdf
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/pr...rnercarpet.pdf
#8460
Those are professional setups. We won't see steel outdrives for a while. Come to think of it, we haven't even been given our promised aluminium spool