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Old 11-03-2004, 11:38 PM   #8416
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Yeah, I had the same problem too. I sanded the c-hubs, and the knuckles till they fit nicely. The binding comes from the c-hub being molded kinda awkward, where the bushing sits at a slight angle to the knuckle.
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Old 11-04-2004, 12:13 AM   #8417
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I would like to ask your honest opinion....i hope that you could help me choose between these kits....i know that yiou guys here are pro4 guys but you might have some greast insights on these cars as well...Pro 4, evo 4, xray t1fk, RDX....which is the fastest, strongest, relaible with the highest value...I hope you will help me choose. thanks. by the way, our local track is technical and made of concrete.
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Old 11-04-2004, 01:59 AM   #8418
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Quote:
Originally posted by cooliomojo-CEBU
.............which is the fastest, strongest, relaible with the highest value...I hope you will help me choose. thanks. by the way, our local track is technical and made of concrete.
I hope you can be honest to me as well.....if you do find out there is 1 touring car which is the fastest, strongest, relaible with the highest value................YOU let me know too..cause I will sell my PRO 4 and get that special car in a heart beat.

Lets face it, there is no such car can meet your standard (I wish there is 1 but I am sure that car and its company will be out of business very soon since no one need to order any parts from them since they are the strongest against things like CONCRETE..)

I picked Pro4 cause it is a car that is PAR with the other top ranked cars like Xray FKT1, TRF415, TC3 or 4, XXXS or JRXS....etc. but the most important are, my local track(s) has a group of ppl running this specific car, so I can always ask question or share setup ideas with others....2nd, parts are easy to get, and are not expensive....most local shop carrys HPI parts, the worst case, I can always rely on Tower.....

TC4 will be my close 2nd choice....same reason.

Xray....good car, but seems like required a little more knowledge on TC car setting...and parts are mail order mostly, and usually are a little more $$$$...

EVO3 or 415.....simply $$$$$ cause they are the back to back WORLD CHAMPION..........that is extra HP and extra $$$$...nothing wrong if you are loaded and very good in RC.
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Old 11-04-2004, 02:06 AM   #8419
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Default Re: for asphalt - foam or rubber

Quote:
Originally posted by azenis
Guys running out door on asphalt, what do you run your pro4 on, foams or rubbers?
Like someone mentioned....Euro and all other major outdoor event, RUBBER is the only choice, there are no such thing is FOAM on all big race.

However, like me, our local track has a open class...you run anything that you have, no motor limit, no tires limit....just simply TC body and 190mm and you are good to go....and my PRO 4 is using a stock chassis with outdoor setup (1 way front of course) with 8-10T motor.....and running FOAM....I am kinda cheap, so I use NITRO CAR foam tires (about $10 cheaper then electric foam)...they work fine.

In fact, by using foam, my lap times on electric car is average 1/2 to 1 laps FASTER then my nitro car.............that only apply when I am using foam....foam gives instant traction, perfect control (for outdoor) and somehow it runs smoother and faster then my gas car.......

So if your track allow you to do foam and you do have others that run foams....do it, it is fun...............but if you are planning to go to some ROAR or IFMAR race, then don't spoil yourself with foams, cause you will have to end up using rubber and you should practicing with rubber at all.
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Old 11-04-2004, 02:26 AM   #8420
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Default which car?

Quote:
Originally posted by cooliomojo-CEBU
I would like to ask your honest opinion....i hope that you could help me choose between these kits....i know that yiou guys here are pro4 guys but you might have some greast insights on these cars as well...Pro 4, evo 4, xray t1fk, RDX....which is the fastest, strongest, relaible with the highest value...I hope you will help me choose. thanks. by the way, our local track is technical and made of concrete.
You should go with something that is well supported in your local area so that if extra parts are needed they will be on hand. I have a Pro-4 but I definately prefer Tamiya products. Do not let the higher price fool you though. If you compare the kits with what is included (extra set-up and tuning parts) the Tamiya kits are a better and cheaper deal.
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Old 11-04-2004, 03:10 AM   #8421
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Quote:
You should go with something that is well supported in your local area so that if extra parts are needed they will be on hand. I have a Pro-4 but I definately prefer Tamiya products. Do not let the higher price fool you though. If you compare the kits with what is included (extra set-up and tuning parts) the Tamiya kits are a better and cheaper deal.
thank you csilve and rookie solara....yep, my rc mentor actually told me that the tamiya's--although initially expensive-- are the better deal because they have cheap parts and they include alot of things with the kit such as stabilizers etc...which among the tamiyas do you recommend?

my original post as to what car is fastest, strongest, most reliable....i was asking for one particular car for each category....one for fastest and best in acceleration, one for durability etc.....i am sure that no car can have all the attributes.
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Old 11-04-2004, 03:11 AM   #8422
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KevinK..........I am using your setup for the upcoming RSJ race (well, still don't know which SAT but it will happen soon)....and I have the rim rubbing problem...

According from your setup (that Nexus posted and modded from yours...) my rear shock is mounted at the farest hole that mount the rear body post (top) and #1 hole (bottom) on the lower arm....my rim is rubbing against the shock bottom cup and the screw....according from your setup, I am placing a bigger shim (2mm) at the rear, and the thinner shim (0.75mm) at the front of the rear hub (exactly like the manual said)..............am I doing it right...?

I think the only way I can get the clearence is get a bigger rim (which is not possible) or place all the spacer in front of the rear hub that would forward the hub more toward back to give me clearence.....

Please advise...thanks.
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Old 11-04-2004, 04:41 AM   #8423
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There really is no faster of strongest car. I all really depends on how you are as a driver and how the car is set up.
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:05 AM   #8424
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I juz got myself a pro4. Joining u all in the group
Wanna know y my front springs must preload begore it can reach 5mm..... Its like look kinda of funny cause its like 2 much preload
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:14 AM   #8425
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Quote:
Originally posted by VerOn_Pat
I juz got myself a pro4. Joining u all in the group
Wanna know y my front springs must preload begore it can reach 5mm..... Its like look kinda of funny cause its like 2 much preload
good pick :P


what tires/setup are you running on your pro4? having that info might help people give you feedback regarding your rideheight problem.
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:16 AM   #8426
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i running sorex 32R. I got off the net for my pro4. The front needs lots of preload. setup kinda stock
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:19 AM   #8427
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Default front bumper

Does anyone know of an aftermarket wider front bumper for the pro 4? I keep braking hubs and i think a wider front bumper would help alot.

Also does anyone know if the rpm bumper for a Nitro TC3 will work without modifications? Can I just slip it under the foam bumper?

thanks in advance
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:30 AM   #8428
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For the preload problem just change the droop of the car on the set screw in the wishbones...
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Old 11-04-2004, 11:55 AM   #8429
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Rookie....what foam tires are you using. If you are using Jaco there might be some glue on the back side of the rim that is rubbing. Othere then that yes you can move the hub more towards the rear and get more clearance. Other then that it should fit no problem....it if still doesnt fit take a thin spacer off the front axles and place it in the rear to widen the car out. My car is wider in the rear then the front and I like it better that way so try that. Anything more then that and I will have to see exactly what is going on.....when ever you can make it out to RSJ I will take a look at it.
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Old 11-04-2004, 12:09 PM   #8430
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kevin K
Rookie....what foam tires are you using. If you are using Jaco there might be some glue on the back side of the rim that is rubbing. Othere then that yes you can move the hub more towards the rear and get more clearance. Other then that it should fit no problem....it if still doesnt fit take a thin spacer off the front axles and place it in the rear to widen the car out. My car is wider in the rear then the front and I like it better that way so try that. Anything more then that and I will have to see exactly what is going on.....when ever you can make it out to RSJ I will take a look at it.
Thanks Kev........I know I can always rely on you.

Right now, I don't have any electric foams (ordered some Parma to start but they are in order).......I was using a set of Team Orion fresh kick rubber to do the testing....
I know I could get the clearence if I move the rear hub all the way back and move the lower shock mounting to #2.......however, I want to know is, per your setup, you can mount a 28mm foams by using one 0.75mm spacer F and 2mm spacer R on the rear hub and still able to mount the shock to #1 lower hole without RUBBING? From what I am looking....unless my 26mm rubber tires is totall different then the usual rubber tires, I dont see how you can mount it without rubbing.

I already using the provided spacer (1 thick 1 thin silver) after the HEX wheel hub, still rub....the rubbing occur mostly at the rear lower cup of the shock.

It must be something I did wrong or something...if i could I will post pictures later.
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